Bo Hansen DI layout

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I just finished one last night with the OEP transformer.

I haven't spent a lot of time with it yet - just a quick test with electric  bass and electric guitar against a GT passive DI.  

This DI has a much higher output and also seemed to have more high frequency content. Overall it sounds **great**.

I can't wait to use it more.

Thanks very much to Bo for providing this design to the world, and to Soeren and any others who helped out for making it such an easy project!

Jed
 


Thanks to Bo and Soren for putting the work into this. First impression is that it sounds great. Wish I would have built this a long time ago.

Cheers,
Jesus


PS - Tecate tastes a hell of a lot better with lemon... (cheap beer so I can buy more components)  8)
 
ericjazz said:
Thanks for the answers. Millenium DI-Pro is interesting.... I wonder what type is this Haufe transformer.
For your information, I received pricing for 4*ST8456 : 217,55EUR incl shipping to France...
Best regards.
Eric

It's a Haufe ST8123

Wolfgang
 
Hi Soeren and Bo,
it might me a dumb question
but what is the purpose of the "chassis" pin hole,
i thought the only connection to chassis was through the XLR pin 1,
regards,
Francois
 
Take another look at the bottom right of the schematic.

You can see that pin 1 is lifted above ground with a cap, 2 diodes and a resistor.
 
on the schematics it is,
but not on the boards,
there's a trace between pin 1 hole and "chassis" hole,
or am i missing something ?
regards,
Francois
 
Francois,

Everything is ok,

The metal box "chassis" shall be connected to XLR pin 1, so it is the electronic ground "0 volt" on the pc-card, that is isolated from XLR pin 1 and metal box with the "ground loop circuit" build with two dodes, one 100 ohm resistor and 0,1uF capacitor.

Ok, you can do the pin 1 connection to metal chassis direct on the XLR connector, but it more safe to use the connection from pc-card to a solder tag/lug with a separate screw direct to metal chassis.

NOTE, both tele jacks must be isolated from the metal chassis, use "Cliff Plastic" brand, mono-BB version, they are the best for this application.

--Bo
 
I've made a BOM too (waiting to for my tx and board)

for European @ banzaieffect:

http://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B2Ajbn3wU-UiN2Y1OWJkN2MtYzVhZi00Nzc3LWE1OWEtZjcwMGExZGRkZWUz&hl=en

everything is linked so it should be easy but use it at your own risk... ::)
 
diyfanatic said:
I've made a BOM too (waiting to for my tx and board)

for European @ banzaieffect:

http://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B2Ajbn3wU-UiN2Y1OWJkN2MtYzVhZi00Nzc3LWE1OWEtZjcwMGExZGRkZWUz&hl=en

everything is linked so it should be easy but use it at your own risk... ::)
Thanks.  ;)Updated the first post ;) ;)

Cheers
Søren
 
I have a question for the people using the OEP.  Are you using it with the Mu-Metal Can or without?  I'm about to order parts and was wondering if the can is necessary. 

Thanks.
 
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