Bo Hansen DI layout

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Just ordered a couple of these boards and the Mouser BOM. Will get xformers soon.

What sort of cases have people used with this? Does anyone make a nice looking box for these pre-drilled for an XLR and a 1/4 inch TS? Something sort of DI'ish looking?

There actually is a local manufacturer near to me where I used to work that makes DI's and has boxes. Maybe I could buy a blank box and paint it...
 
Ricardus said:
Just ordered a couple of these boards and the Mouser BOM. Will get xformers soon.

What sort of cases have people used with this? Does anyone make a nice looking box for these pre-drilled for an XLR and a 1/4 inch TS? Something sort of DI'ish looking?

There actually is a local manufacturer near to me where I used to work that makes DI's and has boxes. Maybe I could buy a blank box and paint it...

https://www.frontpanels.de/miscellaneous-frontpanels/bo-hansen-di-1975/

You can also contact Frank for any customization options you may like.

Thanks!

Paul
 
Whoops said:
This is DIY,
do your own box

That is a possibility, but see below.

Treb said:
I used a common Hammond enclosure and designed my own front panel for it using Front Panel Designer.

As eager as I am to build and solder and diagnose issues, I really have no interest in doing custom metalwork, so I am always happy to support someone who does.
 
Ricardus said:
Just finished up two of these tonight. Super happy with the way these came out!

Looks real nice.

One thing regarding your labels, is it truly wired parallel out or are you using the connections on the PCB?Wiring as per the schematic gives you a buffered instrument output and not parallel as what is common on passive DIs.

Thanks!

Paul
 
Potato Cakes said:
One thing regarding your labels, is it truly wired parallel out or are you using the connections on the PCB?Wiring as per the schematic gives you a buffered instrument output and not parallel as what is common on passive DIs.
That‘s what I thought too.


Best regards,


Udo.
 
Potato Cakes said:
Looks real nice.

One thing regarding your labels, is it truly wired parallel out or are you using the connections on the PCB?Wiring as per the schematic gives you a buffered instrument output and not parallel as what is common on passive DIs.

Thanks!

Paul

You are correct. I didn't make the metalwork or do the text layout on it. For me it's no big deal, but it is technically incorrect. I ordered the metalwork from Frank Rollen at https://www.frontpanels.de/

He has metalwork designed specifically for this DI and even offers his own PCB (which I didn't realize in the beginning). He also does custom backplates if you want it. I had him put my studio name on them.

I didn't want to be the guy who corrects him and seem rude. Maybe someone who knows him can suggest something different.  :)

Maybe something like "To Amp" or simply "Output"

I ran different kinds of signal through them all morning, and the sonics are excellent. This may be the best direct box in the world. Where is this Bo Hansen guy so I can buy him a beer?!
 
I saw someone comment in the history here about the same issue I had when I ordered the BOM on page 1. A lot of the resistors are 1/4 watt, but they're too big to sit properly on the PCB (because they're 300 volt, when they don't need to be, I think). So I updated the BOM more to my liking and with smaller 1/4 watt resistors, but same quality (Vishay, metal film 1%, 200 volt). I'm attaching the PDF. You can select the part numbers and cut and paste them into the Mouser Cut & Paste BOM importing tool, and it will import the BOM with 100% accuracy (I suppose until some part numbers change).

EDIT: There's a link to a Mouser BOM I made below.
 

Attachments

  • Bo_Hansen_BOM_Update.pdf
    38.8 KB · Views: 12
It is absolutely not necessary with super high quality components in this design, it is good enough with ordinary 1/4 watt carbon film resistors or as best normal metal film.

The same applies to capacitors and electrolytes, for example use Wima MKS or Kemet MMK  film capacitor and Panasonic M, NHG or as best Panasonic FC or Elna RJH electrolytes, or equivalent of other brands.

Instead, be more careful about using transistors of good quality so that you avoid "no name" or fake transistors, use BC550C and BC560C or the others I recommend on my webpage www.hansenaudio.se/techpage.htm and use only original brand such as Philips, SGS/STM, Motorola, National, Fairchild.

Also put money on good quality of tele jacks and XLR connectors, box/housing, PCB and of course transformer, this is what gives genuine and sustainable qualité in the long run.

Finally, and what I have pointed out hundreds of times, only use red LED, do not use other colors because they give unnecessarily much voltage drop, for example blue LED is the worst.
This pulls down the headroom unnecessarily, just to have an odd color that shines.

All the best from
—Bo
 
A beer.... thanks Ricardus, maybe we meet sometime, who knows.

Yes, right, this PCB is made for standard components, I myself have been involved in this PCB layout.

—Bo
 
Bo Hansen said:
A beer.... thanks Ricardus, maybe we meet sometime, who knows.

Yes, right, this PCB is made for standard components, I myself have been involved in this PCB layout.

—Bo

I was in no way trying to minimize your involvement in the PCB design. My apologies.  :)

As I said in a post I made up above... this is the best DI I have ever heard and used, and may be the best DI in the world.
 

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