> Here's the schematics:
80%-90% same as mine. And (even though I have not used it in a while) I like mine.
Big difference around the EQ. You have coils and (I forgot) I have simulated (chip) inductances. So you have a 2-frequency switch, I have variable center freq. That would be worth changing, except it needs a very odd 2-knob 3-ganged pot: a 100K on upper knob, and dual 100K tapered pots on the bottom knob. You could just slip one of those small P-sonic dual-pots next to the boost/cut knob, but it would be ugly.
There may be some small differences in gain structure. I'll check at work.
Yeah, I could see changing out 4558s. TASCAM did (IMHO) a brilliant job of designing the system around the available parts (which is why it all runs at -10dBu) but still: 4558 is so 1973 new-fi.
> Hey, I didn't know it used input transformers.
Wasn't any "serious" alternative in 1974. You could get low noise at 1K impedance, but not at 150Ω sources, or not reliably in production. Even with discrete: look at all the classic op-amp modules, they all were made for transformer-in.
Even the early Bi-Amp boards (circa 1979?) used transformers. Those guys would have dearly loved to go transformerless to save cost and especially WEIGHT: a big hunk of iron on a PCB in the back of a van is begging to crack a board. The first "low Z" transformerless mike amp I used totally sucked, noise you could not ignore. It took a while for transformers to fade away.
> Are they any good?
They are not junk, but I can't say I've seriously flogged them. I suspect loud sources on big condensers WILL need padding. However the first step on the built-in pad is -20dB, a rather large step.
If you don't like them, replace them. About 1:4 ratio, not very fussy. Of course replacing all eight transformers with "something good" will cost more than the entire board "is worth".
And you will never find a board easier to work in. Many "great" boards open-up just as easy (3 screws to pull one strip, 14 screws to pull 8 inputs and 4 submaster strips) but they tend to be cluttered with parts, the Model 5 boards have only a few parts.
80%-90% same as mine. And (even though I have not used it in a while) I like mine.
Big difference around the EQ. You have coils and (I forgot) I have simulated (chip) inductances. So you have a 2-frequency switch, I have variable center freq. That would be worth changing, except it needs a very odd 2-knob 3-ganged pot: a 100K on upper knob, and dual 100K tapered pots on the bottom knob. You could just slip one of those small P-sonic dual-pots next to the boost/cut knob, but it would be ugly.
There may be some small differences in gain structure. I'll check at work.
Yeah, I could see changing out 4558s. TASCAM did (IMHO) a brilliant job of designing the system around the available parts (which is why it all runs at -10dBu) but still: 4558 is so 1973 new-fi.
> Hey, I didn't know it used input transformers.
Wasn't any "serious" alternative in 1974. You could get low noise at 1K impedance, but not at 150Ω sources, or not reliably in production. Even with discrete: look at all the classic op-amp modules, they all were made for transformer-in.
Even the early Bi-Amp boards (circa 1979?) used transformers. Those guys would have dearly loved to go transformerless to save cost and especially WEIGHT: a big hunk of iron on a PCB in the back of a van is begging to crack a board. The first "low Z" transformerless mike amp I used totally sucked, noise you could not ignore. It took a while for transformers to fade away.
> Are they any good?
They are not junk, but I can't say I've seriously flogged them. I suspect loud sources on big condensers WILL need padding. However the first step on the built-in pad is -20dB, a rather large step.
If you don't like them, replace them. About 1:4 ratio, not very fussy. Of course replacing all eight transformers with "something good" will cost more than the entire board "is worth".
And you will never find a board easier to work in. Many "great" boards open-up just as easy (3 screws to pull one strip, 14 screws to pull 8 inputs and 4 submaster strips) but they tend to be cluttered with parts, the Model 5 boards have only a few parts.
