Super77 Method...

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pearldrum944

Active member
Joined
Dec 25, 2009
Messages
41
I'm having trouble finding a lot of information about this topic.  I think I understand how it is done, but does it necessarily require a laser printer?  If so, have you who have used this method just happen to own a laser printer or have you gone somewhere to get them printed?  Has anyone tried it with an ink jet printer? 
 
Laser is the way to go. I go to Kinkos.  Ink jet just smears across the paper. There was a guy who said he got it to work using overhead projector media bit I haven't been successful with that.

Ink is liquid. Toner is powder. That's why laser works.

All the info is here. Just search. 
 
mushy said:
Laser is the way to go. I go to Kinkos.  Ink jet just smears across the paper. There was a guy who said he got it to work using overhead projector media bit I haven't been successful with that.

Ink is liquid. Toner is powder. That's why laser works.

All the info is here. Just search. 

Thanks.  Did you have any issues transporting your print-outs home, or did you spray and apply them at kinkos?
 
Hey pearldrum....


One of the bits of advice often given to new forum member is to "use the search". Whilst time consuming - it is valuable advice...

There's This:

Quote
Avery laser labels backing paper... throw away the labels, print (reversed) onto the 'slippy' side of backing sheet, then spray on the super 77 and LET IT DRY FOR 5 MINUTES!!!
Once it's nice and tacky (do this in a DUST-FREE environment!) align and rub-down the labels with a sharpie lid.

If the labels get out of whack, you have to start over with the panel. -To remove EVERYTHING from the panel, just wipe it with a clioh soaked in naptha (Zippo lighter fluid..same stuff but MUCH cheaper if you buy it from a paint supply place by the quart) then THOROUGHLY dry it off, re-spray with Super-77, let it dry for another 5 minutes, and start again.

Once it's correct, let it dry IN A DUST-FREE ENVIRONMENT(!!!!!) and after 24 hours, apply a coat or two of Krylon clear. There's a skill to this where the temperature of the can makes a differnece to the 'smoothness' of the final coat, but it's not too difficult.

Search Super-77 and I think you'll find another write-up somewhere...

Keith

Or this description:

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=27107.msg325175#msg325175

And Here:

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=26632.msg317542#msg317542

And more hints here:

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=991.msg12976#msg12976
 
I am about to start playing with this method myself, so do post your experiences...thats how we learn....

I am particularly interested in the selection of the right glossy paper to put through the lazer, as I havent had much luck at this stage yet!!

Good Luck!!

mac
 
Avery label backing sheets work for me. Cloud the glossy sheet by rubbing it down with a lint free cloth.

Just throw the sheets in a folder. They are surprisingly tough. The toner actually sticks to the waxed paper. The wax then releases it when the adheasive is added to the picture. 
 
There are also clear and white ink-jet decal sheets available at www.beldecal.com
I've used these often, and though the first few times I had some small troubles, now that I have the hang of it, they work great and so far I haven't had any peeling problems.

you print them, then spray with crystal clear acrylic or even better with spray lacquer.
then you soak off the back paper and slide them onto the surface.
just like the decals on model airplanes, hot-rods, and such.
distilled water and a very clean panel gives the best results..
when they have dried for a day or so you can spray them again for a tougher surface.
the good thing with the lacquer is that if you get a bubble or a bit of dirt the lacquer melts back into itself and will often clear up imperfections.
 

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