TG1 - advice from any one who has built it...

wade goeke said:

Majestic12 said:

My 3HE frontpanel version...

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WOW that looks just like ours.....except sh*ttier.....

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Wade, why bother posting such rude comments. Group DIY is about making/learning/sharing/enjoying audio electronics... nothing more.

My build from years past:

Andy, you are the man bro,absolutely beautiful my friend..

sintech said:

wade goeke said:

Majestic12 said:

My 3HE frontpanel version...

Click to expand...

WOW that looks just like ours.....except sh*ttier.....

Click to expand...

Wade, why bother posting such rude comments. Group DIY is about making/learning/sharing/enjoying audio electronics... nothing more.

Click to expand...

Don't know whats the problem. Sure, my design is copied from the Ch**ler unit, but I'm not selling these things and use it only for my own stuff.

But still, it is copied from the chandler unit...so..........Wade's not really unjustified.
I'd probably do the same thing, the same way, if it were me.

desol said:

But still, it is copied from the chandler unit...so..........Wade's not really unjustified.
I'd probably do the same thing, the same way, if it were me.

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It looks like someone 'mixing and matching' and proud enough to post a picture of a personal build. To put this down in my opinion is.. Bad Manners.

Well, i mean....it probably annoyed him slightly? It's understandable...i see his point, etc

Life goes on.  8)

Hey you'all      :

Quick couple of questions - I'm noticing some inconsistencies between the BOM, schematic and PCB overlay printing...

For example:
the PCB overlay says c108 = 33n
Bom says c108 = 22n
and Schemo says c108 = 22n

I've noticed the same issue with
c110, c105, c106, c103, c104, c108

The value on the PCB overlay, schemo and BOM conflict.  I downloaded the latest info from twin-x, i believe...  What have you'all done in regards to this, gone with the values in the BOM, Schemo or PCB overlay??  These look like the filter caps for the HPF...     

Also R19 is 3k9 on bom/schemo, it's also a 10k resistor on BOM.

R20 on bom is 10r, it's also a 15k on the bom and 15k on the PCB??

Lastly there is an unlabeled resistor symbol with no numbers by it right by pwr and pwr2 on the main PCB.  Anyone know what the value is of that one??

Also, there is an unlabeled cap right below d14 at the top of the main pcb board?

Thank you all so much!!!!! 

Greg 

Ok I probably didn't need to ask those last questions as I studied the schematic.  The side chain caps make sense being progressively larger.  So I'm going to go with the schematic and not the silk screen.

Also the missing labels on the pcbs are found in the component layout pictures. 

Got everything passive stuffed now on to transistors

Glad you figured it out! - Just letting you know you're not alone out there, someone is reading this thread ;D

Quick question on transformer choices:  Looking at the build notes it says the neve transformer options are very nice sounding.  The 1:1 option is the simplest.  Has anyone built one of both or experimented with both?  I'm trying to decide which way to go.

Also, for 20$ on eBay I bought a component tester that does caps, resistors diodes and transistors.  It identifies the legs of the transistors.  This will help me get everything installed properly.  A good deal for 20 bucks... 

Thanks!! Greg

I'm assuming you've chosen not to install the iron/clean option? If i wasn't going to build it the chandler way(which is pretty sweet for what it does)...i'd probably stick to DOA only. I seem to remember hearing a few samples, and i liked the clean quite a bit more. Freq response was significantly more extended top to bottom.

Hi Desol,  thanks for your response!  I'm installing the iron/clean option, and I wasn't going to go Cha-dl-r but original emi.  I'm going to try and find those sound samples, good idea 

best!
greg

sintech said:

My build from years past:

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Lovely build...i like that...

http://tinyurl.com/ceta32n

http://tinyurl.com/d4monng

10k:10k carnhill, 600:600 thordarson. I will probably mod this to Ch*ndler input arrangement from the hold I currently have. So far the only thing I reaaaaly like with it is to smash things into oblivion, might as well make that easier to do..

Thansk guys!

beauty... 

But, other than room mics I can't think of any possible usage of so much compression. Maybe is just me though...

Hi baadc0de,

that looks great!!! Good job, how did you make that panel?

I'm really close to being done with my unit. 

Everything's stuffed, just got to wire it up.  Was there anything you noticed you had to fix or change or possible issues? 

I'm just going to do the 1:1 deal for now, and add transformers down the road I think...
Frank and electrochronic has been very helpfull 

best!

greg

Thanks,

the most important fix is the one that Igor outlines before with cut traces and doing some wire links. I never did finish it on my own so I let someone else do it and there were some AOT resistors not installed (but apparently they are on the schem, so ..)

Yeah, I too wouldn't want to use that much compression except for cases like these (room mics) but I just don't find it THAT exciting on other stuff, in other modes. It's no 1176 or LA2A or something else I find instant love for. Maybe I've just spent not enough time with it. But I will mod it to ch*ndler input knob spec, which will make it easier to distort which it just seems to do SO well. Better for crushing drums than any other compressor I have, and I have plenty.

baadc0de said:

Thanks,

the most important fix is the one that Igor outlines before with cut traces and doing some wire links. I never did finish it on my own so I let someone else do it and there were some AOT resistors not installed (but apparently they are on the schem, so ..)

Yeah, I too wouldn't want to use that much compression except for cases like these (room mics) but I just don't find it THAT exciting on other stuff, in other modes. It's no 1176 or LA2A or something else I find instant love for. Maybe I've just spent not enough time with it. But I will mod it to ch*ndler input knob spec, which will make it easier to distort which it just seems to do SO well. Better for crushing drums than any other compressor I have, and I have plenty.

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Can't speak for the clone (though I hope to soon... any news on these meters?!), but the real one can do a really cool thing to piano parts and some electric guitars. Maybe more useful in a rock/hip-hop/indie mix than leveling out solo piano, etc.

Dylan

Thanks baadc0de 

BTW, what did you end up using for your zobel network resistor and cap? 

thanks!

Greg