anyone know how to open a sliding glass door?

No I do not plan to rob anybody and no this is not some link to a video of an idiot breaking a door. This is a legit question...

At work in one of our studio rooms, some assistant accidently closed the sliding door to the vocal booth. The problem is that the latches were in the lock position, so when the door shut, it locked. Without breaking the glass, there is no way into the booth I can think of. In fact I can't think of anyway in without doing some sort of damage. The window on the other end I would remove but there is no way to do that. The screws for the window pain on inside the booth. I could go through the ceiling but that would do damage as well. The latch is someone heavy duty with a hook on top and bottom so when it latches into place it's like a claw grasping at something. that's the best way I can describe it.... I can't think of any real way to get in other then a brick or some other heavy object I can break the glass with but I am open to hearing some suggestions. I already have tried getting the door off it's track and pulling it out. Too heavy duty.

urgh...

kinda hard to say without having a clear view from the construction and sliding meganism and so...

maybe some photos

It's usually with a thin piece of metal that can bend around the 90 degree jamb and lift the latch.  I would try plastic first like from a report folio.  Depending on how well it was hung and what type ie. acoustic or Home Depot you can also try to lift it from the bottom off the track swing into the room with a few helpers.

And disable the lock when you get in- on all doors!
Mike

Home depot have a simple and quick solution for you :
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=916422&Ntt=916422&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber
;D

I recall a similar misfortune . . . .


    they got some of those glass-sucker-handle thingy's, and lifted it out of the rail. I recall it was difficult because the lock was engaged. A coat hanger was useful.iirc

Sounds like the latch is a double binding type so getting the door off the track will probably only make things worse.  If it's tempered glass, it'll be harder to break than you think unless you can expose an edge.  I'd suggest drilling into either the latch mechanism or probably less invasive would be to drill into the jamb where the latch.... um.... latches.  If you can pop into the mechanism with a unibit, you might be able to operate it with a screw driver.  If you go for the jamb, you may have to sawsall a slot to take out the latch.

If all else fails.... Walls are cheaper than windows.

If your booth is a double layer of drywall / plasterboard then I'd be temped to cut a hole in that, and patch it afterwards. If it's brick & mortar than maybe not.

The worst part is that the assistant is still in the booth, and he's running out of air...

I second that walls are cheaper. Ive been through a similar situation. You should really consider removing the lock when you do get it open.

lock has too latches one that goes up when engaged one that goes down when engaged.  yeah I was thinking through the wall as being cheaper. As for the assistant the worse part is he left the u-47 running. I'll keep ya posted...

I think you mean ex-assistant.

ex would imply he is still alive ;D

if you cant lift the door over the bottom track (as per sodderboy)  how about locating where the latch is inside the door perimeter (i dont think it warrents being called a door buck)  drill a hole in the outer skin of the aluminum tubing(i'm assuming here since no photos) push latch mechanism with screwdriver or other to open.  if your first hole is not perfectly lined up to get this done you should be close enough to see where a secondor bigger hole should be placed to get the job done.
you can then get some type of cover plate and self taping screws (again assuming we're dealing with aluminum tubing here)
to cover up the holes. if it happens again just remove the plate!
if i was in la or you NY i'd be there to handle it .

Maybe a lesson: omit or bust the latches on the booth door when you install it.

AND/or hang the key above the door. Or file it behind the engineer's whiskey.

Is this a standard patio door? With a key lock slot?

Then you only have to un-lock it.

Put a 1/8" drill into the slot at the key-nose dent. Follow with 3/16" and 1/4". Go easy and hang on tight: it will want to grab and spin. Eventually there is so little left of the lock cylinder that all the wafers fall out and the cylinder falls half-out. The back of the cylinder has the lever which works the latch(es), turn it.

Most older patio doors could be lifted over the lower track, with maybe some damage to latch. And I never needed those suction cups.

Most walls offer little resistance. Get one hand through the wall, reach the latch.

Drywall: utility knife with extra blades, score a hand-size rectangle, X the center, work it in with a hammer. Multiple layers keeps you busy longer. There should be 2 or 3 studs next to the door, so start 4 or 5 inches over, perhaps tap a nail to confirm a cavity.

Sometimes a drywall saw is quicker than a utility knife.

To repair: get some light wood (or drywall, but minimum buy is 2'x2' sheet) which will slip through the hole and bridge the back. Rig string and a second block to support it. Get the quart of heavy drywall compound... Tiger Hair or other enhanced mud is useful here. Butter the back board so it will stick to the back of the hole. Let set well. Work more heavy mud in the hole, thin layers, let set. When you get near the surface, use Lightweight Spackle to finish smooth.

Or get two foot-square walnut plaques. Engrave "Dedicated To The Memory of Jacko, studio assistant 2008-2010". Screw one to each side of the wall, with calk, over the holes.

Wood paneling suggests saws. The soft pine in my house makes wall renovation and repair a pleasure. But it does mean sawdust in the room or constant running outside to trim.

Once you know how a wafer lock works (many/most domestic locks are wafer), you can see how to "pick" one. It can be quickwer than using the key.

thanks seavote. Prr not a standard patio door with a lock on the outside... I wish it was that easy. 

"omit or bust the latches on the booth door when you install it."

seems like a good idea on first thought. why does anyone need to lock themselves in or others out of a vocal booth??!!

on second thought i relize the latching is probably there to make a tight contact between door and booth sound insulating materials.

dont know if it would work here, but I locked the keys inside my VW Beetle ( a -67 1500 if there is any other bug-lovers here..  ) many times and the easiest way is to get one of those plastic ribbons that sits around cardboard boxes. fold it in two and push it in through the door rubber. you can wiggle it around by pulling the two ends with quite a bit of controll ..works every time.
obviously, your situation is different, but it might work..
J

hello, i don't understand exactly the mechanism but locksmiths use radiographies because it's thin, flexible and resistant

A layer of rock is thin, but any live room worth it's salt requires penetration of two 3 layer walls around these hyar parts.  Sometimes lead.

One "institution's" maintenance department decided the best way to fix the hot temp in the machine room problem, rather than actually look at the dedicated unit for the MR, was to cut a panel hole to the control room.  They did not think much of the 3 layers cut for the panel, but thought the three layers drilled for 3 3 inch holes on the other side were a bit much.

This action not only violated all knowledge of studio construction, for which they got a pass, but it violates all knowledge of HVAC systems, for which a head rolled.

I like the drilled extrusion method here since it is an acoustic door.  You can investigate a different door from the inside and pick a spot to drill- either to turn the lock mech or force the latches apart.  Can be filled with good stuff and dessicated assistant body parts to re-soundproof.
Mike
PS: Two other ideas- a locksmith  or, we DIY guys are so stubborn, so if you can get the key blank from a shop, have the assistant rub grease pencil on the blank and file a key for the door