[JOHN5]

UPDATE -

False alarm - - I don't think my coffee had kicked in.  I had a DAW "operator issue" (forgot to turn on my ADAT which works as the master clock). 

Tested everything out:

-Dynamic Mics - - good
-Condenser Mics - - good 
-Mute, Phase and Pad function normally

-Bass on DI circuit - - good (as well as all switches on DI circuit)

The only problem I have is with the LED.  It does not illuminate.  My guess is that I fried it because I originally forgot the 10K resistor upon initial startup.  The LED lit up for a moment and then went dark. 

I will try replacing that and circle back if that doesn't resolve the issue. 

Thanks!

John

[willgmr]

I'm in process putting a pair of 312DIs together and cannot figure out how to get the small NKK switches on the sub PCB to line up with the front panel.
I followed the instructions to shim the trim pot with the PCB board so it's lifted 1/16" up. As you can see in the photos attached, the pots seem to line up with the push button switches well and I think I've installed everything else correctly?

Can't wait to hear it!
Thank you

[jsteiger]

I'm in process putting a pair of 312DIs together and cannot figure out how to get the small NKK switches on the sub PCB to line up with the front panel.
I followed the instructions to shim the trim pot with the PCB board so it's lifted 1/16" up. As you can see in the photos attached, the pots seem to line up with the push button switches well and I think I've installed everything else correctly?

Can't wait to hear it!
Thank you

The Bourns pots need to be dry fitted to the PCB/L-bracket assembly and then soldered from the top to hold them in place. Visit the very first post of this thread. The PCB under the pot body was for the original solder lug AB pot not the Bourns pots. There should be enough info in the first post to get you there.

[willgmr]

Hello,

I did do the dry fit for the bourns pot as indicated in the first post. You mentioned that the bottom T pot shim directions were for the original solder lug version, are you suggesting that th new version I have should be soldered directly to the board, contrary to instructions on the PCB?

[jsteiger]

Hello,

I did do the dry fit for the bourns pot as indicated in the first post. You mentioned that the bottom T pot shim directions were for the original solder lug version, are you suggesting that th new version I have should be soldered directly to the board, contrary to instructions on the PCB?

NO! Do not solder directly to the PCB.

[willgmr]

Very well, then it seems I've followed all the instructions correctly.

I'll reheat some pads on the two pots to try to get them to move enough where all the components fit in their places.

[jsteiger]

Very well, then it seems I've followed all the instructions correctly.

I'll reheat some pads on the two pots to try to get them to move enough where all the components fit in their places.

If everything was done correctly then all should drop right in.

So the mini toggles are not lining up? Are they tight and flat to the PCB? Nice and perpendicular? If so they should work no problem. There is some tolerance in the front panel holes to allow for some slight variations.

[willgmr]

Correct, the mini toggles are off by 1/16"
They are nice and tight and perpendicular to the PCB.

If everything was done correctly then all should drop right in.

So the mini toggles are not lining up? Are they tight and flat to the PCB? Nice and perpendicular? If so they should work no problem. There is some tolerance in the front panel holes to allow for some slight variations.

[jsteiger]

Correct, the mini toggles are off by 1/16"
They are nice and tight and perpendicular to the PCB.

You do have something else off then that's hold things up.

[boji]

Ensure there's no gap between the satellite pcb and the main pcb when soldering.  Best to pinch together boards while soldering.

for mine there was a tiny bit of offset but with a little front plate wiggle/finessing the nkk's should pop right in.   Post a pict of the front with the face plate off around that section and I'll compare it with mine.

[boji]

Actually on second look, in your pict, I see some light coming thru those two pcb's...

[Kman79]

On my Rev D BOM - I see that caps C10 and C11  are optional.  From all of the pictures of builds I can see in this thread it looks like everyone used them.  Why are they optional and any pro's and cons to use them.

[jsteiger]

On my Rev D BOM - I see that caps C10 and C11  are optional.  From all of the pictures of builds I can see in this thread it looks like everyone used them.  Why are they optional and any pro's and cons to use them.

They are AC coupling caps to block any DC offset from the opamp to the output transformer. Just put them in and use the shunt jumper to bypass them if you want. BUT if you ever use the DI in "Post 2622 Mode" you will want them in circuit as there is a higher than normal amount of DC offset in that situation.

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