How to make a simple variable filter high or low 12db or steeper. Anyone?

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ChrioN

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Aug 31, 2005
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I think this is a tricky one. If anyone have the wisdom, please, please share!  :)
Active or passive, just simplicity.

I'm feeling like a parasite.

This one is simple, but can it be made variable?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sallen-Key_Lowpass_General.svg
 
I've made a couple of variable filters as tonecontrols in my basses, and for me frequencyvariation is the easy bit (even though it is a bit of a compromise), it's q variation which is tricky on anything but state-variable filters.

For a smooth frequency variation using a potmeter, you'll need a stereo reverse log potmeter, and those are somewhat hard to get. But ideally the two halves of the pot need to track wrt eachother well, and those potmeters are really rare/ expensive. With less well tracking pots the range will be less.

As for topologies, Sallen key is pretty easy to do, and you need only two opamp stages (one buffer). For an all out state-variable, you need four, but you get LP and HP and band-pass as a bonus, as well as independently variable Q. On musikding there's a small PCB layout with such a filter (although it's probably only wired for LP since that's what you need as tonecontrol on bass or guitar).
Currently, I'm looking at Fliege filters, easily variable Q with only two or three opamp stages, but the first try was a dud.

You can't easily switch between LP and HP on anything but state-variable filters.

Edit:
And I'm only talking about second order filters here, if you want to go steeper, you can put two in series, but frequency variation will be exponentially more difficult.
 
Thanks alot. Clarity.

Is it possible to make a variable Sallen key filter? Using a potentiometer for R2?

btw I don't think musikding carries those pcbs anymore.
 
For simple 2 pole filters you need 2 section pot... Yes Sallen and Key is preferable over MFB that uses 3 resistors for 2 pole filter vs S&K 2 resistors.

I have mede up to 4 pole variable filters (for crossovers) but the pot tracking can shift Q if not held pretty close.

JR
 
ChrioN,

You may wish to check out an active crossover project (named MOX) that I designed and built some 5-6 years ago: http://www.moxtone.com/mox.htm

The schematics should be self-explanatory but if you have any questions, just shoot.

Regards,
Milan
 
Hi Milan,
The boards for that, that Jens did were really nice, but I never got around to stuffing them, sold the lot a couple weeks back. That discrete opamp you did that went with those boards sounds great, I did try a few of those.

By the way, ChrioN, Musikding doesn't sell those state variable boards, someone on their forum designed a layout.
See attached PDF, and a perf layout:
state-variable-filter_diy-layout-neu.gif
 

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  • alembic-like-state-variable-filter_complete.pdf
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Jarno said:
Hi Milan,
The boards for that, that Jens did were really nice, but I never got around to stuffing them, sold the lot a couple weeks back. That discrete opamp you did that went with those boards sounds great, I did try a few of those.

Hi Jarno!

Thanks for the nice words. It's a pity you never got around to finishing the crossover, though.

As I understand it, there have been quite a few iterations of Jens's boards (disclaimer: I'm in no way connected to his business). The first version was the one that indeed took off on the coat-tails of the MOX design that I published on a DIY forum in 2004 whereas every subsequent version represented a further departure from the original concept until the whole thing eventually evolved into a very basic and stripped-down design that had little to do with the MOX.

In the meantime, I have redesigned the original MOX. The active crossover on my website (linked above) is this more compact version that uses IC's instead of discrete op-amps.

Regards,
Milan

EDIT: clumsy wording
 
That's a very nifty way of making your own enclosures! How did you attach the front to the aluminium profiles?
 
Hello Jarno,

an L profile is bolted inside each of the 2 rectangular aluminum profiles. Then 4 M4 holes are made in the L profiles (2 holes on each side) and the front plate is screwed on. It's silly simple, really.  :)

Regards,
Milan
 

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