I'm afraid I still lack the skills/webspace/will to post audioclips. Let's just leave it to the statement that it sounds like it looks.
Someone asked about cost. It'll be less - maybe one half or a third - compared to anything remotely equivalent on the open market, but the amount of time wasted on any build always takes away any such benefits. On this one I estimate 30-60k euros for all the hours at a rate similar to my real job. But I've learned an equal amount, where does that leave me? Counting money and DIY don't mix.
I might go the relay way as well. Did it make a difference "hum wise" compared to rotary switches & unshielded wire?
Duct is also very cool. My power switch is located at the same location but my audio wires are a little further away from it. So far I've had not much hum.
Still...I might go for the duct anyway :-)
didn't compare relays vs. plain wires. I just designed a prototype/testbed PCB with enough options so I could start using it right away. building stuff twice is not my idea of fun. I use relays by default because I'm lazy. They guarantee a short signal path, and the DC voltages needed for them will never disturb circuits around them. Also look at the amount of wires already running in this build, would you feel safe dangling more audio around there. I did the duct "by default" for much similar reasons. I measured the benefits in one past project, and until someone hands me a better solution I will just keep doing this.
Did you happen to notice that you are missing a w on the right hand slow?
Yes. Guess if I will ever use this sticker guy again. I thought it was pretty "hilarious" when the same thing happened with my CNC-engraved dual 1176 front panel, by a company not even remotely related to the sticker guy. One of the four perfectly equal dials is missing the number 30. "why" is a perfectly valid question considering I sent them both pure vector DXF format with no layering tricks.
i like to know is you use the original time constants of farchild.
No way! Most Fairchild 670 time constants are completely pointless in this day and age. There is no material I know that needs a release time of 20 (or even 5) seconds. The meter just sits buried and doesn't move, nothing happening. We have faders for that.
The time constants are a mix of stuff I gathered from the forum over the years for various vari-mu projects. There were caps ranging from 1-15uF and parallel resistance from something like 50k to "off". For the parallel release used on some of the rotary steps I don't remember what I ended up using anymore, but they are quite subtle. Plain RC covers nearly all uses, so I just provided plenty of range. Most of the network caps are buried under those two big aluminum shell PIO caps in the pictures. For stereo link I used some diode protected configuration.
I didn't document many of the things well. I have a bad habit of just drawing a PCB from misc. notes I have that suits "all options" for the task, and then experimenting while I'm wiring it in. As such I have no good documentation for any of this, except that "it's all here on the forum already".
There will also never be PCB's for sale. They are specialised for the parts I have around, no use to any of you and might as well have done it p2p in the first place since it's only going to be used once. Lukas just makes such good sturdy PCB's that I would much rather do that than p2p.
October 27, 2004, 03:10:26 PM