Thoughts on filtered power

The APC SU2200 I already own is a "Line Interactive" model, not a true Online model - but I'm assuming I should gut the Furman Power Conditioners in either case (remove the filtering and spike protection)?  That's my main question here as I'm currently running all of my recording gear off the (3) Furmans, and all 3 Furmans go into the APC UPS along with the PC and LCD

While I obviously don't need a UPS for the rack gear (never had a power hit during a take thus far), it seems to make sense with regard to having a single power source and unified filtering for all of this connected gear - and as a central/singular power switch for the system.  NTM, it's a friggin' 2200VA - so plenty of juice for the whole system minus power amps - I got two of them for free (had to buy batteries, that's it!).  I would like to consider replacing it for the "online" Tripp Lite model I linked to above, but the APC seems to be doing the job for now.  It's more the Furman's I'm concerned with  

Thanks for your continued replies!  8)

OK, so you just need to take the surge suppressors off the Furmans. You can leave the caps in, or take them off, won't make much difference.

If the Caps won't do anything beneficial (I don't recall seeing any large caps in there?) - it will be much easier to bypass the entire Filter PCB and go with a straight-wire connection from the Furman's Power Cord straight to the outlets (simply a matter of chopping a few wires and tying them back together with appropriate wire nuts).  Unless the caps have a distinct advantage of isolating the (3) banks of gear from each other (two 100% Analog Racks, and one hybrid Analog/Digital rack), I'll probably just yank all of the guts out of all 3 Furman's based on your recommendations.

I'm pondering possibly leaving some filtering on the Digital Rack to make sure any noise isn't shoved back into the other 2 analog racks.  Thoughts?

I might post a pic of the Furman's internals over my weekend and see if I should bother leaving ANY of the filtering in place.  All of the Filtering/Surge Suppression is on a little 3" x 3" PCB with a smaller supplemental PCB for the light dimmer circuit.  Would seeing a pic of the filtering/PCB/Guts be of any use to dictate what should be left in (if anything)?  I have 2 newer "Merit Series" M8Lx models, and 1 older original PL-8 model - so I'm sure their filtering differs somewhat (PL8 probably having "better/more substantial" filtering).


Thanks so much!  Should have this part of my studio wrapped up soon with you guy's help!  8)

BTW, be careful "splicing" mains wiring - use plenty of heatshrink/cableties/insulation etc to protect against wires coming loose in the future!

It's fairly basic white-to-white, black-to-black, and green-to-green "splicing".  The mains cord goes into a PCB with the filtering, and then feeds the outlet-chain from there.  I'm simply going to chop the wires off the filter PCB and tie them together with wire-nuts.  Done!  I will need to tie in the Dimmer Module as well - but that's just 2 more wires (hot/neutral to that separate dimmer module PCB).

Considering appropriate wire nuts are sufficient to meet code for 15 Amp Wall Outlets (and beyond), I'm thinking I'll be peachy inside a grounded metal chassis.  I'll be leaving the circuit breaker inline, but that's about it.  Any concerns with this?

8)