Hi!
I'm troubleshooting a Sony C38b mic which has a suspected bad capsule with very little gold left.
Yesterday I tried a different capsule in there for testing purposes (chinese '747' type).
With the test capsule I get a "normal" amount of signal but also a lot of hiss.
The High Cut switch (S2) makes no audible difference to the hiss level. The pad switch reduces the hiss by 8dB, so I suspect that the hiss is produced in the first stage of the head amp.
Here's the strange thing - the hiss gets progressively louder when the mic is switched from M to M1 to V1 to V2. This switch (S3-1 on the schem below) just changes the output capacitors - the hiss gets louder as the capacitor gets smaller.
Does anyone have any thoughts on why that should that happen?
Here's the schematic
Some other observations
1. With phantom power I get about 10.2V in the positions marked '9.2V' on the diagram.
2. The LED does not light up when switched on. (That may be a red herring, as I hazily recall that they only light briefly when first switched.)
3. These are not the easiest mics to play with - quite a bit of delicate dismantling needs to be done to test voltages etc.
Thanks loads!
Stewart
I'm troubleshooting a Sony C38b mic which has a suspected bad capsule with very little gold left.
Yesterday I tried a different capsule in there for testing purposes (chinese '747' type).
With the test capsule I get a "normal" amount of signal but also a lot of hiss.
The High Cut switch (S2) makes no audible difference to the hiss level. The pad switch reduces the hiss by 8dB, so I suspect that the hiss is produced in the first stage of the head amp.
Here's the strange thing - the hiss gets progressively louder when the mic is switched from M to M1 to V1 to V2. This switch (S3-1 on the schem below) just changes the output capacitors - the hiss gets louder as the capacitor gets smaller.
Does anyone have any thoughts on why that should that happen?
Here's the schematic
Some other observations
1. With phantom power I get about 10.2V in the positions marked '9.2V' on the diagram.
2. The LED does not light up when switched on. (That may be a red herring, as I hazily recall that they only light briefly when first switched.)
3. These are not the easiest mics to play with - quite a bit of delicate dismantling needs to be done to test voltages etc.
Thanks loads!
Stewart