Printer for etching

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buildafriend

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Joined
Jun 30, 2009
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I tried etching at home for the first time.

I was able to do everything here except for printing on the toner pcb transfer paper. The ink was blotchy and runny.

My friend told me I should get an HP laser jet ( he uses the HP P2035 ).

This printer is not really in my budget. It go's for around $250 new.

Have any of you had good luck with printers that are more affordable? Do you use special inks? Printing techniques?

Thanks in advance!
 
Laser jet is really the only way to go. Try the used market, I found an old (but works fine) Laser for free.
 
I'm using a samsung 1915 bw laserprinter with great succes on press n peel or photopaper.
Only eur90!
 
I just tried it today.  No love.  Any suggestions on the right *paper* to use??  Where to get?
 
Any laser will do on photopaper. Not any printer will work on pressnpeel.
I couldnt get my brother (laser) to transfer an undistorted image with pnp.

Most brands of photopaper work fine. I've had most succes with cheapest inkjet photopaper.
Where exactly did it go wrong?
 
Well Arno, I first tried inkjet paper in the laser printer, it transferred OK, but the *paper* had plastic in it and melted.  Also, it did not want to soak off at all.

Then tried heavy gloss laser paper.  No transfer at all: popped right off.

Do I need true laser photo paper?  A better inkjet photo paper (no plastic)?  Both were Staples brand.

Thanks.
 
Gold said:
You can get a new HP monchrome (black only) laser printer for less than $100.

What do you guys think of this one? Would you buy it for your etching?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16828115639&cm_re=HP_monchrome-_-28-115-639-_-Product
 
They have a Samsung for $59.

The H-P software is bloated and buggy.

Go on one of the fuzzbox stompedal forums. A lot of those guys toner-mask their boards. It is "easy" but there's a LOT of small details to know about.

Yes, it MUST be laser. Inkjet ink is just dirty water. Laser toner is a plastic that will hold together.

Yes, the paper is critical. The toner must lay on the surface, and the paper must come off the toner easier than the well-heated toner comes off the copper. Some seem to be using high-gloss clay-coat paper, specifically magazines (Playboy Cosmo etc, heavy slick gloss paper). The slick really is clay, and will soften when soaked.

The copper must be very clean.

The toner must be ironed-on somewhat above the temperature that polystyrene softens at. This is not too hard on PCB. It may be very hard on boxes, and may need considerable pre-heating.

You don't use the household's good iron.

There IS an alternative: use -specific- inkjet printer and ink to deposit directly on the PCB (no paper transfer). Apparently one suitable printer turns up in yardsales for $25, but the ink may cost more than that. The printer transport needs major modification. When everything goes well, it can produce incredibly fine detail. I don't think it is suitable for newbie hackers.
 
buildafriend said:
I tried etching at home for the first time.

I was able to do everything here except for printing on the toner pcb transfer paper. The ink was blotchy and runny.

My friend told me I should get an HP laser jet ( he uses the HP P2035 ).

This printer is not really in my budget. It go's for around $250 new.

Have any of you had good luck with printers that are more affordable? Do you use special inks? Printing techniques?

Thanks in advance!

I've done it with plain paper before.. It just takes more soak time and careful rubbing to gradually take the paper away.
In either case, if the toner pops off the board easily then you're not using enough heat or at least not long enough.

Jason
 
Samsung ML2010 can be had used really cheap, and their brand x toners are like $40. I've been using mine for about 7 years now without issue with Press N Peel.
 
Well, you da man again, PRR.  :)  Found a COSMO-like mag and got very good results.  Not perfect, but then it's a big board: 3" x 10", lost a little on the edges and I hear acrylic paint makes a nice touch-up.
 
Hmm....I guess the short answer is that this is the first I heard of it.  :p

All that Googling and YouTubing: nada.

A quick search shows a couple boards where folks are having a hard time with it, and at $2/sheet....

Frankly, if I could find one of those download our software free and submit for a cheap PC board outfit that had drag and drop 9-pin tube sockets, I would use it.
 
Well, there is this... http://www.expresspcb.com/

I have never had any problems with press-n-peel, ever...it is a great product. The only real problems I've ever heard of are when people don't take their time or use it incorrectly. I'd highly suggest trying it.

Best of luck my friend!
 
I use an HP 4550 color printer I found cheap on craigslist.  The driver allows you to specify a "high gloss" setting.   You can also manually crank up the toner density calibration on one or more of the colors.  The combination lays down quite a thick layer of toner.  You can actually feel the artwork raised up on the paper!  Not many laser printers do this and virtually none of the new ones on the market do--they're all into *saving* toner.  For etch resist, saving toner is the last thing you want to do!  

 
why not use photoresist pcb's.  I use them with the clear printable sheets used for silk screening.  then i run my board through my modified epson r200 to print the component layout.  I do have mispro ink but haven't tried the direct print yet but I get great results with printing directly on the board.  I do use this digital medium stuff I got from Art supply store.
 

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