Yamaha PM1000 16 channel recap. PS Help

Hey all,

I've used the search, and while there is a lot of info,  I still am seeming a bit uneasy about buying parts.  I am going to start recapping my Yamaha PM1000 16ch,  starting with the power supply.  Looks like there are 4x 470uF/50v, 7x 220uF/80v, 3x 1000uF/16v, and one large cap can @ 1000uF/80v.  My question is, how much can I increase these caps, what will be the advantage, and which caps will specifically need increasing.  I understand (i think) that by increasing you smooth out the ripple and will get better constant dc filtering.  Just now sure how much is too much. 

I also am wondering about the master section in regards to recapping.  Same questions with electrolytics there too.

Here's a link to the schematic download. 

http://www.yamaha.co.jp/manual/english/result.php

Any help would be great. 

Thanks,
Daryl

If the board has never been recapped, just replacing with the same values of good Panasonic FCs or similar caps will most likely cause some improvement.

This site is about someone re-building a Soundcraft Ghost console, but it has a lot of good info that might help, especially about signal path caps and how much they might be increased. Lots of good links:

http://www.underthebigtree.com/wiki/tiki-index.php?page=Soundcraft+Ghost+Restoration+Project

Have fun. Sounds like a worthy project.

Hey,

You might think about getting a Power One or Acopian or Condor or somesuch power supply off ebay to run the +44V and +48V.
Just look for a linear regulated supply. Maybe upwards of 5 or 6 amps, off the top of my head. I think that would be plenty. I bought a 3 amp Condor 48V supply for $26 or something recently that I'm going to be using to power an 8X2 PM1K mixer.

They're a lot better supplies than the stock PM1K.

Also, concerning electrolytics, if they're just filtering DC, it's okay to up the capacitance. So, if you were going to the trouble of recapping the power supply, I'd say, just make sure the voltage is high enough, and try to find the cap that best fits the footprint, which will inherently be of larger capacitance, because they make caps smaller these days.

For the channels, what I've done in the past was to get a buttload of 47uF/50V and use them for all the 47uF/50, 33uF/25V, and 47uF 35V. (Otherwise I think there are just 100uF/25V, and the little 4.7 and 3.3 caps that you can use 4.7uF/50 for all of those.) Then there is C37 (I believe?) which is connected to the "BO" on the PCB. If you're wiring direct outs in, it's a good idea to up that cap considerably. I've used 330uF/25V. (Original is 33uF/25V)

The master strips are pretty much the same as the amplifiers in the input strips so what you do there should work in the master strips. If you can, try to upgrade the tants to Wima MKS-2 films as well, and replace the tantalum off the fader with a 3.3uF MKS-2, (easy to see where it is in the schematic)

For electrolytic, I know everybody always recommends Panasonic FC's. I a/b'd several PM1K strips a long time ago, each with different electrolytic capacitors, (about 4 different kinds) and I like the way the Nichicon PW series sounded a lot better than either the Panasonic FC or FM series. I believe they're pretty comparable in price too. The Nichicon HE series is great as well.