CLX-VU Build Thread (DBX 160VU ) UPDATE: REV 3

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nebula said:
Hi Abe,
Looking at the latest BOM, I see the Molex headers - you specify Molex, the series, the pin shape - maybe you could simply include the Molex part number?  It would probably save builders like me heaps of collective time.

Molex has many many many different styles of headers and receptacles. Many many many different types will work. It depends on what you want. Also many different companies provide headers, Molex just seems synonymous with headers, kinda like Kleenex is really just facial tissue. Many many different types will work. But I know for a lot of people sifting through that many options can be time consuming (I know) So I'll try and add some generic part numbers to make everything a bit easier.

How much it will matter whether we use the "A", "B" or "C" variants of the 2180 VCA?
Good question. I offer the kits with the 2180A VCA, just cause - for 3 bucks more - why not. But on the same token I'm running the 2180B's in mine, cause I haven't measured very much different distortion between A and B variants and usually the 160vu is used when you want a little "color" or what have you. Not something like the stereo buss. Then again its very tricky to accurately measure different specifications in VCA's because by their very nature. Sound wise - granted this isn't a blind test by any means -but just the general impression of the different VCAs, The A sounded more transparent and while the B didn't sound bad, it maybe didn't sound quite as clear. Again, that could just be my bias of what I'm expecting the different parts to soundlike.

Have you used the "Collective" case?  There are a few minor things I'm wondering about that as well...   I think I'd like to use 1/4" TRS in instead of the XLR connectors.  Are they punched for the Neutrik "D" XLR?  Will there be room for a larger toroid than the one you're recommending?  I don't know the hole sizes, so can you recommend a particular 20K pot to use for this configuration?  Oh, and their web site shows a "CLX-160" graphic on the case, but this project is called "CLX-VU" - is that the way it's staying? Is there a provision for a main power switch that will kill power to the transformer?

Yes I have a Collective case, And you need higher stand-offs to get the boards in correctly. Also I don't like using XLR on my line level equipment, just personal preference, I know most all other studios seem to favor the XLR on everything...The Collective cases work quite well, and are very nice. They are pre-punched with XLR, but if you want to use TRS an easy fix is to get a piece of metal and cut it in a rectangle so it fits behind the XLR jack holes and use the screw holes for the XLR jacks to screw the piece of metal tight. Then drill a 1/4" hole for the TRS jacks in the piece of metal covering the XLR holes. And I wouldn't get too hung up on the name, I think me and Dan for Collective cases spoke generally about the project being called CLX-VU, or CLX 160. or something. CLX is 160 in roman numerals so that's my reasoning behind CLX-VU.

Does the Hairball meter you're recommending have a correctly printed scale for i/o levels as well as gain reduction?
As of now if you want to purchase a correct scaled meter you need to contact DBX and they charge upwards of a 100$ so I'm told. I've talked to Mike from hairball about supplying a custom Scaled meter. But I think we came to the conclusion that the meters are very simple to change the scale (you just pop off the front and the scale slides out.) check the top of this thread you can print out your own custom scale and even add a logo or whatever if you like.

Anyway: thanks for what looks like it's going to become a great DIY project. I can't wait to hear these puppies in action!

Well thanks for your optimism!! This project does sound good, I'm finding correct calibration plays a big part on getting this unit to sound optimal. Mainly setting up the RMS unit wave symetry. Using the trimmer on the REV 2 boards it makes it much easier to correctly set up the RMS unit. Originally DBX had factory workers with big resistor switchers just solder in the correct one after the unit was all assembled. I'm expecting to be finished with the manual this week, covering many questions that I expect builders to run into.
Thanks!
Abe
 
couple of "dumb" questions.  Im trying to put together a "cart" on mouser for the "THAT" build.
Some of the suggested lead spacings are unavailable but im sure wont be an issue since the non-conforming ones are only like 2.5mm shy (just bend a leg or 2 out)

1) how detrimental is that 3.02K resistor (cant find one, but found a 3.01, can i just tie a 10ohm resistor to it to make up or is the 3.01 ok?)
2) the optional 100pf for the THAT build im assuming is a ceramic (same as C25, 26 and 81)

Had another ? but just answered it myself.

Thanks

edit:
for the transformer is this acceptable:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/VPT36-690/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv4oUrzpPKU3A2NOXuypJmAKGn4tZBCYX0%3d

If anyone cares to look this over, might be a good start point for a pre-made list of goods:
http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=11e05cb026
Notes: the Molex connectors i got from Newark (mouser didnt have all of them in stock)
The LM301 (no specification on if its the 8pin or 16 pin, 8s are out of stock at Mouser, in at newark)
R49  subbed a 1.3M no 1.29M
R125 subbed a 261K no 260k
R5 subbed a 3.01K no 3.02
went with 1/4 TRS connectors (since my patchbay is bal 1/4" makes connecting easier and cheaper than XLR to 1/4")
transformer is a best guess if anyones got a better source (or the right one if this is wrong) pls let me know.
Meter from hairball
pots i went with the bournes (more expensive but from my experience they seem better)
some caps lead spacing will need to be "adjusted" slightly to fit... again if anyone want to suggest a better fit please do.
 
Hello,
Yes, 3.01k is fine, 3.02k seems hard to source.

Also a note on the 260k resistor - that is the resistor that determines how much current the LEDS receive. And now its looking like a lower value will probably be better, if you like your LEDs to shine a little brighter.
(sorry I chose such a weird/hard to source value!)

All your other subs should be just fine.

And yes 100pf should be ceramic.

Transformer you spec'ed should work great.



 
Just remember with wood sides, there is no electrical shielding on the sides...

True, but the top,front back and bottom are all connected. I may have found someone to make them if anyone is interested.  I should find more out later in the week.
 
updated (fixed a couple of lead spacing issues with some caps)
http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=4796fbc057

I used those specific TRS connectors on my M-S matrix box and it just looks really clean and neat.  The D series is nice(espeically the locking one), but since i dont have very "good" metal working equipment, cutting/drilling the smaller hole is easier as well.
Edit: fixed link  :-[
 
Abe, did i miss it on the BOM? Switches?

I guess this can work:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/7301SYCQE/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuIC3ROaEqRYYddGtbX1Nlx
This is a bit overkill but would look cool as hell:
swp-1000-77-52.jpg

(found at)
http://www.surplussales.com/Switches/SWPushB-2.html

EDIT: Just a heads up: DO NOT order this thing... total crap.  Its not really a 3 button, its 2 and the third is independent from the other 2... doh!
 
Ah! Thanks, I need to add those to the BOM. Yes those switches look like they should work great! Better to have too many poles than not enough..
aLSO A 3PTT could work just fine too, but might take a little tricky wiring of the switch...
Might as well just get the one from hairball for 5 bucks
 
complete_build_1.jpg

complete_build_2.jpg


My first completed rev2 unit! Its actually for Dan Dunderlloo, those are his cases
Having r36 adjustable and using it to calibrate the RMS unit really helps the compressor sound its best.

Build manual - first sections. www.acsoundstudio.com/MANUALS/CLX_VU.pdf


right now its really too huge! 150+ mb!!!! Anyone know how to encode it without loosing all the detail?? Its only the first sections! I still need to do the calibration and wiring guides. But very close to finishing those too.

Also with these PCBs I found a way to lower the noise on maximum gain. using 2 wires. Its simple and I will cover it in the manual.

How are other peoples builds going?
 
Acrobat Professional.  We have all the CS suites at my day job, usually does a good job of optimizing the file.  (you lose a little on the graphics, but I thought they were plenty clear, especially if it were to be printed out).  But makes it WAY easier to DL.  If you have revisions or something let me know, perhaps you can FTP the file or put it on your server so i can grab it and "re-optimize".
 
Abe, great work on the build manual so far! Love the details you have included.

Looking forward to the next installment!

Cheers,
Chris

Ps please get some good pics of the wiring for this bad boy.
 
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