MOLEX - How it works ?

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evilcat

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 30, 2009
Messages
396
Location
France - Paris
Hi everyone !

I'm completly lost with the Molex line ! I've never used pluggeable connectors since now and I wanna try for the MixBuzz1 I will start soon, but I absolutly don't know what I should take as it seems to be a lot of solutions : ADVICE NEEDED !!!

Thanks.

Ben.
 
Here are some infos of what type of Molex are used most of the time, i know that there some other kind of connection that is easier and seem to work well, i remember Ptownkid talking about them, i use Molex because i have stock, but maybe the other solution is better, and since when you start with one you want to "finish", the stock maybe better switching in that solution, maybe he will get the thread and share?
anyway:

Need more connection, or want the cheapest or more options, then narrow the search based on specifications for getting a list of all types, watch drawings if you have a doubt on the picture and voila:

For 2.54mm:

Housing:
http://fr.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1462825

Header:
http://fr.farnell.com/molex/22-27-2021/barrette-male-kk-droite-2-54mm/dp/9731148

Crimp Conn:
http://fr.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1462641
or by 100
http://fr.farnell.com/molex/08-50-0032/contact-male-22-30awg-pqt100/dp/9773789?in_merch=true&MER=i-9b10-00001460


3.96mm:

Housing:
http://fr.farnell.com/molex/09-50-3031/boitier-a-sertir-3-96mm-kk-3-voies/dp/1756753?crosssellid=1756753&crosssell=true&in_merch=true&

Header:
http://fr.farnell.com/molex/09-65-2028/embase-male-3-96mm-kk-2-voies/dp/1756761


Crimp Conn:
http://fr.farnell.com/molex/08-50-0106/contact-a-sertir-male-18-24awg/dp/1013097?crosssellid=1013097&crosssell=true&in_merch=true&

As you can see the model name is the KK type from Molex, now if you want to buy those from another supplier, you can copy/paste the Manufacturer reference in the other supplier, it will not always work tough, but for these no prob i think.
Prices varies with the plastic type, the locking headers or not, and for the quality of the pin, gold plated or not, locking on the header i think it's better, now for crimping, Molex could be a PITA if you're not a patient guy, i crimp using a simple electrician crimping tool, i actually end up using a small clamp, faster for me now, after that i solder the connectors to the wire, won't move anymore.
TIP: don't go too far with the wire in the crimp connector, because you'll have a hard time inserting in the housing.

Hope this helps?
 
Another solution is to buy some ready wired. I've used these from Das musikding.

http://www.musikding.de/index.php/cat/c158_PCB-connectors.html

Obviously not a one size fits all solution, depending on how long you need your wires/cable type but useable for a good bulk of the projects around here.

Chris
 
Thanks Zayance, that's just perfect !!! :D
Thank you too Chrispbass, that's a cool solution, but I'd like to buy everything in the same place and the rest of my project has already a shopping cart @ Mouser.

Thanks again guys,

Best,
Ben
 
You really should get a crimping tool for the Molexes, too. When I first started using them I used whatever needlenosed pliers were closest on the bench, but it was quite a pain.. At some point I was ready to give up on them, but I found a cheap crimping tool for molexes (maybe $10-15 US) and it was like a liberation! No more frustration.

It's also important to properly strip the wires. There are 2 crimp points, the first is for the bare wire, the outer one is for the insulated wire. You only need a few mm stripped.
 
hey nicholas, the one that silent arts posted looks much nicer than the one I got. Mine has no dual pivot, and is pretty cheap. I bought it in the US at some place similar to radio shack (maybe it was radio shack). Anyway, it is a mandatory purchase if using a lot of molexes!
 
If you want reliability, NEVER crimp Molexes. Always solder them. Also note that Molexes will NOT supply
large d.c. currents over a period of time, particularly the output of transformers to rectifiers, as the peak
currents involved are greater than the connecters can take, and they will overheat and eventually fail.
 
radardoug said:
If you want reliability, NEVER crimp Molexes. Always solder them. Also note that Molexes will NOT supply
large d.c. currents over a period of time, particularly the output of transformers to rectifiers, as the peak
currents involved are greater than the connecters can take, and they will overheat and eventually fail.

I suppose this particular comment is in reference to a specific Molex connector, and not every one of the thousands of different connectors they make, most of which require crimping pins onto wires.

But then again: a proper, gas-tight crimp beats a soldered connection any day.

-a
 
hmmm i'll have to try those clamps one day, but is it a challenge when using those tiny crimp connectors and using a fine wire, i mean big clamp VS small parts?
When i use small pliers like this, i grab the wire and the crimp, keeping the position of the assembly between my two fingers, then crimp the wire point on one side, then the other, finish with the insulated, then put all wire in front of me, a drop of solder on each and voila, but all that pretty fast actually, when you get use to, you always go faster and get more accurate...
56766.jpg

 
Mbira said:
I always crimp then solder...

The reason for not soldering after a crimp is that the solder wicks up the wire, and a weak spot is formed right at the point where the solder ends.

There is no reason to solder after doing a proper crimp with the correct tools.

-a
 
I still would , hasn't failed me yet , although
it may not be a good idea [ you can go easy on the solder
but i mean not past the crimp point  ]
 
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