[dencul]

These are the instructions I got from The Don.
It works. But remember a resistor on the +wire.

“I normally power it with pin 12 (+16V) and pin 5 (ground)..  and wire a resistor in series on the + pin of the meter LED..  normally around 1k5 to 10k depending on how bright you would like it..  The smaller outer pins on the meter are for the LED.”

I hope it helps

Thank you for the help.  So if I have this right: on + side of meter run a resistor and wire to pin 12, and - (neg) side of meter run a wire to pin 5 (ground)?

[MiamiBoy]

Yes, exactly from the outer pins of the meter. But before hard soldering the resistor, try with different values to get the right brightness in the LED, before committing to one

[dencul]

It's a thing of beauty. Thanks for the help!

[MiamiBoy]

Looks great. Which resistor value did you end up using?

[dencul]

I went with the first one I tried, 4k7 (carbon comp, actually read 5k). I figured right in the middle of the range would be the not too bright, not too dim I was looking for. The pic was taken before I thought, "oh, I should pass audio to make sure all still sounds good before a victory lap". Success! Thanks again for your help.

[MiamiBoy]

You’re welcome.
I think the brightness is just perfect.

[buckethead]

Hey guys,

I need to dig up this old thread. I have a couple of those 1176s and was trying to recalibrate and check them after using them for a couple of years. Lately they started to cut out here and there and sometimes there's some gainreduction happening in bypass mode.

So I started with the q bias calibration, but it seems absolutely impossible - I fed a 1kHz sine at 0dBu (0,775V), the rest is set up as should be. As soon as I turn up the input I get enormous output, more than 10V (>22dBu), so it's kinda impossible to do that setup. What am I missing there?

I really can't wrap my head around did, maybe one of you guys can help me out

Thanks and best regards,
Mathias

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