jsteiger

Re: DIY studio furniture
« Reply #40 on: December 09, 2011, 03:05:31 PM »
you are very right, but I often want to avoid the visible hole plugs.
Me to but there are no visible hole plugs with a pocket screw. They are all on the inside. I don't plug them. Visible on the inside I guess but who cares about that.
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Ptownkid

Re: DIY studio furniture
« Reply #41 on: December 09, 2011, 11:06:49 PM »
True...I'll give you that. Well, how do I justify all the money I have invested into large clamps if i use pocket screws...lol.

ddageek

    Kansas City the home of real BBQ
  • Posts: 37
Re: DIY studio furniture
« Reply #42 on: December 16, 2011, 04:34:12 PM »
Jeff
 For the first ever I'm going to disagree with you,
I think for the beginning woodworker, the guy who thinks cutting a straight line is a major accomplishment, cleats or braces is a good simple attractive method of building a rack, that can be torn down, and put back together. Granted my 3 way Questeds live on a pair of screwed side to top and bottom plate Birch racks that are 25+ years old. For the beginner I'll suggest  cleats.
Love My Keg jig, my Biscuit jointer and like Denny the interlocking bit ( My favorite is a Box Joint, and I recently built a Client a pair of Box Joint/Cleat racks that he could ship flat and not glue!
look at it this way the $30 for the Jig will buy a Decent Blade for the beginners saw, or a better saw and drill!

The Idea of an extra 1/8 inch in each direction is a given to anybody who has rack a bunch of abused 80s gear, not everything is built to standard size and having a top and bottom space with some clearance for some bent chassis is a godsend! Also think rear rails! great for PSUs and cable ties! I wont rack without them!

Eric

G-Sun

Re: DIY studio furniture
« Reply #43 on: December 17, 2011, 04:11:17 AM »
Do you need to add tolerance in the vertical direction as well? The width is 19" so 19 1/8" or 19 /14" is recommended. The height of 8 space would be 14" so would you make the opening 14 1/8" to give a little wiggle room?
I must note that I screwed up regarding this. Adding 1/8" is minimum. You have to know the width of your rails.
http://www.gearslutz.com/board/studio-building-acoustics/668204-19-diy-rack-question.html
HJFP2, ssl9k, Harrison Ford Filters
My music

gemini86

Re: DIY studio furniture
« Reply #44 on: December 17, 2011, 11:56:24 AM »
a lot of rail manufacturers recommend 19 1/8"
- Rodney

"...you better call Kenny Loggins, 'cause you're in the danger zone."

G-Sun

Re: DIY studio furniture
« Reply #45 on: December 17, 2011, 02:32:57 PM »
a lot of rail manufacturers recommend 19 1/8"
Well, if your rails are for 19 1/8 then you're ok. I've checked the width for a lot of rails, and 19 1/8 is the minimum-width of any rails I've looked up. A lot of rails are wider, and need more space.
HJFP2, ssl9k, Harrison Ford Filters
My music

0dbfs

Re: DIY studio furniture
« Reply #46 on: December 17, 2011, 08:19:57 PM »
I would recommend keeping vertical tolerances as tight as possible and trimming with a trim piece so 1/8" added to RU*1.75 would provide 1/16 on top/bottom. You may like a wider piece of trim but making top/bottom flush will keep it looking tidy and sharp. Use some blank panels and the rails you are going to use to measure the width. I just did a 14ru rack like this and it worked great for everything I needed to mount in it  (front and rear rails installed but I didn't do any trimming on top/bottom this time).

Cheers,
Jb
Music is everything!
Audio is everything else!

G-Sun

Re: DIY studio furniture
« Reply #47 on: January 10, 2012, 02:10:30 PM »
HJFP2, ssl9k, Harrison Ford Filters
My music


 

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