GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

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weiss said:
AdoreaRecordingStudio said:
weiss said:
AdoreaRecordingStudio said:
Absolute strangest thing just happened... I accidently double tapped the power button and lights turn on! All the sudden the meter reads normal, the compression light works too!? But I have to double tap the power for it to work?? What is going on here? ?

Ps-my voltages across both rails read exactly as they should (+\-15 & +\-12)

yes, this is because of the 3 pin voltage regulators, don't use ts rectifiers (taiwain semiconductors) but e.g. ti or fairchild. Just replace uA7815, ua7915 for the TO220s and ua78L12, ua79L12 for the TO92s and it will work on the first try ;)

weiss


Okay, so I swapped out the supplied components as previously noted for the ones you suggested and the following happened.. My lights still won't turn on for either the "power" dpdt or the "compression" dpdt switches & my voltages went completely out of whack for both the +15rail (jumped to +22.1) and the -15vdc rail (dropped to 0.0vDC).

So I then decided to pull the TO220's and reinstall the 7815 & 7915 but I left the TO92's in place of the 79L12 & 78L12.  My voltages are now back to the correct levels - however my damn lights still don't work!! lol


Sincerely,


Palm + forehead

okay, this is weird.. did you check your wiring of the lights?

Yes,

Several times in meticulous fashion. I should also note they work flawlessly when I turn the unit on- wait a moment. Turn it off, and rapidly turn it back on. Leading me to the conclusion the switches are absolutely wired properly and that the issue lies somewhere in the regulators or close to them.
 
Hello!

What could be the reason of, my right channel output is approx. -40dB, noisy and distorted? :S
(Left ch. is perfect)

Thanks, Daniel
 
Dannytech said:
Hello!

What could be the reason of, my right channel output is approx. -40dB, noisy and distorted? :S
(Left ch. is perfect)

Thanks, Daniel

check your IC, sometimes it is not sitting correct in the socket.. just take the right vca ic out and in again

weiss
 
Sorry, I have to clarify my previous post.

There's no output signal on the right channel (input is OK, the meters shows the gain reduction). The left channel is perfect, and I've changed all the Left IC-s, VCA-s with the Right, and nothing changed.

(Previously I only heard the distorted crosstalk about -80dB)
 
finbase said:
The switch I'd use (if I could...) as the bypass control is Lorlin CK Rotary Switch, 4 pole / 12 turns, turns limited to only two.
How to wire this thing? Wires from where to where?

Please see the attached jpg picture, the bypass switch is depicted in the upper right side. I'd like wire it the way that the compression would be in the active mode in the position 1 and in bypass mode in the position 2... So my unschooled guess is that a wire should go from the SSC PCB's point "TO" to the center pole A, and then there should be wires from the pole/turn 1 to the SSC PCB's point "Ret" (return),
this, or the other way round, doesn't matter in what direction you close the relais supplying circuit between FI 'A' and '1' (or B4 or C7 or D10) or interrupt the relais coil supply voltage for setting 2.
..and from the pole/turn 2 to the chassis ground. Am I correct?
Don't short your supply voltage to ground. Just leave the rotary switch pin2 unconnected, so the relay will not be activated for switch position 2.
 
Dannytech said:
There's no output signal on the right channel (input is OK, the meters shows the gain reduction). The left channel is perfect, and I've changed all the Left IC-s, VCA-s with the Right, and nothing changed.
Double check for shorts, wrong resistor values or a broken trace/missing jumper that interrupts signal flow in your right channel.
With sufficient audio level feed and only your right channel input connected, if GR meter doesn't move, concentrate fault spotting in the input section (around balanced line receiver NE5534), else in the output section (around NE5532).
 
Harpo said:
finbase said:
The switch I'd use (if I could...) as the bypass control is Lorlin CK Rotary Switch, 4 pole / 12 turns, turns limited to only two.
How to wire this thing? Wires from where to where?

Please see the attached jpg picture, the bypass switch is depicted in the upper right side. I'd like wire it the way that the compression would be in the active mode in the position 1 and in bypass mode in the position 2... So my unschooled guess is that a wire should go from the SSC PCB's point "TO" to the center pole A, and then there should be wires from the pole/turn 1 to the SSC PCB's point "Ret" (return),
this, or the other way round, doesn't matter in what direction you close the relais supplying circuit between FI 'A' and '1' (or B4 or C7 or D10) or interrupt the relais coil supply voltage for setting 2.
..and from the pole/turn 2 to the chassis ground. Am I correct?
Don't short your supply voltage to ground. Just leave the rotary switch pin2 unconnected, so the relay will not be activated for switch position 2.

Thank you, Harpo!!

finbase
 
Okey, last issue before plugging this thing to the mains... Pardon me for being a complete n00b!

The problem is the proper wiring for the IEC power connector. It should be quite self-explanatory, but the reason why I ask is that there's two differing instructions available. And although being a n00b, I do value my life so high that I rather ask dumb questions than kill myself in an electric shock!

I bought my IEC power connector from frontpanels.de, and their wiring diagram is in the first picture...

But I've built my unit according to pcbgrinder.com assembly guide (since it's Gustav's kit), and their wiring diagram is different! Please see the following post, the pic is there...

Since I bought the IEC connector from frontpanels.de, I followed their instructions. But I just want to ensure that is it the proper way to go?

So, thanks and apologizes again...
finbase
 

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And here's what I've ended up with. Sorry for the bad pic and the IEC unit being upside down...

Thanks,
finbase
 

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finbase said:
And here's what I've ended up with. Sorry for the bad pic and the IEC unit being upside down...

Thanks,
finbase

Not sure if its just the angle, but it look like you soldered the connections coming from the switch to the same pin.

You should also double check your soldering work and the chassis ground lug fastening, since it looks a little wobbly.

Best of luck!

gustav
 
Hello,

I've finished building the gssl and checked that all is correct inside, however, when I switch on the power the two 10ohm resistors in the power supply circuit get very hot (glowing and smoking). I've looked for shorts and can't see anything obvious. Has anyone else experienced this or similar, where can I start checking for the fault?

Thanks
 
Gustav said:
finbase said:
And here's what I've ended up with. Sorry for the bad pic and the IEC unit being upside down...

Thanks,
finbase

Not sure if its just the angle, but it look like you soldered the connections coming from the switch to the same pin.

You should also double check your soldering work and the chassis ground lug fastening, since it looks a little wobbly.

Best of luck!

gustav

Sorry, yes, it's the angle... Here's another picture, hopefully it's clear enough.

It's supposed to be wired like frontpanel.de instructs. (post #6547)

BTW, the ground connections on the ground lug are "super sturdy". But yes, the visual outcome isn't too sharp, it doesn't look wobbly, it looks HORRIBLE! :)

So the question still is: will I die, if I'll switch this thing on?

finbase
 

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Hello my friends,

I gonna build my first DIY project, the GSSL. I´m doing the cart on mouser, I found everything, but I´m in doubt about the ICs sockets and the molex conectors. There are so many opitions and the pictures usually doesn´t correspond to the piece. I don´t want to buy wrong pieces. I hope someone can help me with this.

I need the sockets for those iCs:

NE5532P
NE5534P
TL072IP
TL074CN
THAT2180B

And also the molex conector and cables:

5POLE. PIN connectors, PCB, 1/10" (2.54mm pitch)
10POLE. PIN connectors, PCB, 1/10" (2.54mm pitch)
10POLE connector, Cable, 1/10" (2.54mm pitch)
5POLE connector, Cable, 1/10" (2.54mm pitch)

Last doubt... for what is used those crimp terminals in the gssl project?

16pcs CRIMP TERMINAL for pcb connectors

Thanks,
 
finbase said:
weiss said:
hello finbase, no YOU soldered them wrong.. the instructions are all identical and correct ;)

No, there's a difference????

Sorry, like Gustav i thought that you soldered them to the same pin..

look.. ever thought of ac as alternating current? it doesn't matter, just make sure to solder the first two cables coming from your power input to the first two terminals of the rocket switch, the other two below go to the transformer..

this is how i wired my switch: http://www.3dsuppli.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/PowerSwitchWiringActual.jpg

blue is neutral and gets a short connection from the IEC terminal to one side of the switch, the other side of the switch is part of the power cable that goes to your power supply.
brown is the hot or live wire. this connection from the IEC terminal gets routed through the fuse compartment. once out the other side of the fuse you use a short jumper to connect to one side of the switch and then the other side of the switch is part of the cable that goes to your power supply.

and no, you won't die.. (don't miss to insert a fuse) ;)
 
finbase said:
weiss said:
hello finbase, no YOU soldered them wrong.. the instructions are all identical and correct ;)

No, there's a difference???? Or then I am super dumb...  :-[
¨

If you are extremely worried about having wired it correctly, measure the transformer secondaries powered on before adding them to the circuit.

Gustav
 
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