GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

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gyraf said:
Damn, dét er en svær fejl at finde - forfalskede komponenter ligger simpelthen uden for hvad man forventer..

Godt arbejde!

Jakob E.

Det er bestemt ikke hvad man forventer Jacob og de er jo gode til at efterligne, det er heldigvis ikke noget jeg har oplevet mere end nogle få gange, som regel er de okay, selv om de er fra Kina. Men tak for hjælpen, det var kun fordi du også pegede på - regulatoren at det gik op for mig at det måtte være den.
 
Really happy GSSL user here!  8)

Just something that kind of bothers me: my meter seems to be bouncing back and forth when deflecting. I'm using this one here:
https://www.don-audio.com/VU-Meter-S-500

The original meter on the SSL seems much more stable and smooth.

Any idea how to make this meter behave more like the original?
 
andow said:
Really happy GSSL user here!  8)

Just something that kind of bothers me: my meter seems to be bouncing back and forth when deflecting. I'm using this one here:
https://www.don-audio.com/VU-Meter-S-500

The original meter on the SSL seems much more stable and smooth.

Any idea how to make this meter behave more like the original?

Yeah i have the same here. But all my builds got that behaviour so far. I think it's just the ballistics of the meter, not sure if you are able to "improve" that ?!
 
Yeah, it's meter ballistics - if you get an expensive Sifam like the original, it'll behave like that.

But for all real purposes, I don't consider the meter readout to be critical..

Jakob E.
 
So, i want to make my GSSL voltage switchable between regions (US & EU).
Is that even possible?

I'm thinking it could be done with just a simple "voltage selector" switch.
Or is it more complex than that? Change of toroidal etc??

I know nothing about electronic, but im great at soldering and following instructions for the kits.
 
MiamiBoy said:
So, i want to make my GSSL voltage switchable between regions (US & EU).
Is that even possible?

I'm thinking it could be done with just a simple "voltage selector" switch.
Or is it more complex than that? Change of toroidal etc??

I know nothing about electronic, but im great at soldering and following instructions for the kits.

If you use a dual 110V primaries, transformer, you can wire it up on a switch to  select parallel  or series connection, which is basically the same as selecting 110 or 220V operation.

Gustav
 
Thx gustav

Will this transformer work:
Primary: 2 x 115
Secondary: 2 x 15v
USA  110V Parallel Usage
White & Purple together to Mains IEC 1, Orange & Yellow together to Mains IEC 2
Europa 230V Series Usage
Orange & White together, Yellow to IEC 1 (L), Purple to IEC 2 (N or reverse)

Together with a voltage-selector slide-switch (DPDT) 10A 125V

Or is your solution something completely different?
Better / easier setup ?
 

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MiamiBoy said:
Thx gustav

Will this transformer work:
Primary: 2 x 115
Secondary: 2 x 15v
USA  110V Parallel Usage
White & Purple together to Mains IEC 1, Orange & Yellow together to Mains IEC 2
Europa 230V Series Usage
Orange & White together, Yellow to IEC 1 (L), Purple to IEC 2 (N or reverse)

Together with a voltage-selector slide-switch (DPDT) 10A 125V

Or is your solution something completely different?
Better / easier setup ?

That is how you do it..

Gustav
 
That's awesome.

I just remembered that, a lot of professional appliances, have a 120V-240V 50/60hz transformer.
So no need for a switch, as it does this automatically?
That would be even better for my Gyraf SSL, so i don't need to worry about switching back and forth when traveling.

Is that a possibility?
If yes, is it all about getting the right toroidal transformer and nothing but a different wiring?
Or can almost any power transformer do this?
 
I don't think that is what he is saying. You mentioned appliances automatically switching voltages and then asked if you could just wire a toroidal transformer (linear PSU) and not worry about it. SMPS automatically switches voltages, linear requires a physical switch or a rewiring of the transformer to switch input voltages.

There is no reason I can think of that you couldn't use any modern SMPS in conjunction with good filtering with this circuit. As long as it can handle the power requirements of the GSSL (which isn't too much) then you should be good. Otherwise you will need to install a voltage switch for a toroidal transformer for the different voltages.

Thanks!

Paul
 
Potato Cakes said:
I don't think that is what he is saying. You mentioned appliances automatically switching voltages and then asked if you could just wire a toroidal transformer (linear PSU) and not worry about it. SMPS automatically switches voltages, linear requires a physical switch or a rewiring of the transformer to switch input voltages.

There is no reason I can think of that you couldn't use any modern SMPS in conjunction with good filtering with this circuit. As long as it can handle the power requirements of the GSSL (which isn't too much) then you should be good. Otherwise you will need to install a voltage switch for a toroidal transformer for the different voltages.

Thanks!

Paul

Thanks Paul.

What i meant to say was, since he built the design, there must have been a very good reason for him to use a linear instead of a smps :)
I have since read a lot about the differences and concluded that a linear is best for pro audio, especially DIY's if you wanna keep it simple & cost efficient.

So, I've decided to go with a toroidal and a DPDT volt-selector switch.
Can someone please confirm that this transformer will work with the switch im buying, for the GSSL?
https://www.don-audio.com/Audio-Toroidal-Transformer-Prim-2-x-115-Sec-2-x-15v-Center-tap
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/c-k/V80212SS05Q/CKC3002-ND/181459



 
MiamiBoy said:
Thanks Paul.

What i meant to say was, since he built the design, there must have been a very good reason for him to use a linear instead of a smps :)
I have since read a lot about the differences and concluded that a linear is best for pro audio, especially DIY's if you wanna keep it simple & cost efficient.

So, I've decided to go with a toroidal and a DPDT volt-selector switch.
Can someone please confirm that this transformer will work with the switch im buying, for the GSSL?
https://www.don-audio.com/Audio-Toroidal-Transformer-Prim-2-x-115-Sec-2-x-15v-Center-tap
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/c-k/V80212SS05Q/CKC3002-ND/181459

This design has been around for a very long time, and when this circuit was first hatched up until recently I would agree that a linear power supply would be best for pro audio circuits. However, because of much better designs and implementation of DC filtering, SMPS are being used quite a bit in fantastic audio designs (CAPI, Rupert Neve Designs, Sound Skulptor, Heritage Audio, JLM Audio, etc.) Not trying to convince you one way or another, but just to let you know that current SMPS options with DC filtering would work well with the GSSL.

Thanks!

Paul
 
Well, i've read that noise, RF &  electromagnetic interference in SMPS are significant, and therefor EMI-filter are necessary.
That and reliability + slower transient response made me choose linear instead.

But then again, you've might be right about nowadays SMPS transformers are better/good enough :)
 
Hi! Need some help : I use pushbuttons to switch bypass and turbo mode for my GSSL, but for the bypass pushbutton, i don't know how to wire it with lightning just when on (on = compressing) ; can I let pots A and B unwired to the pushbutton switch ? in order to let a C pushbutton pad free to power the led... Thanks by advance !
 
Hi,

I'm building the GSSL. Some years ago I bought some pcb's, and it's and old design that differs from actual. I found some diferent resistors values, that I think I solved. But, I've a doubt with one 47R resistor, that the actual desing omitted. Is necesseary to populate?

Thanks.

https://ibb.co/1dycXNF

https://ibb.co/nwtfsBD
 
spoontex said:
Hi,

I'm building the GSSL. Some years ago I bought some pcb's, and it's and old design that differs from actual. I found some diferent resistors values, that I think I solved. But, I've a doubt with one 47R resistor, that the actual desing omitted. Is necesseary to populate?

Thanks.

https://ibb.co/1dycXNF

https://ibb.co/nwtfsBD
Answer is depending on type of VCA used.
DBX2150 type VCA's will need this 47R, connecting to pin4.
For THAT2180 type VCA's, do not populate this 47R.
The current setting 3K9 resistor at the +/-12V powered sidechain VCA is correct.
Use current setting 5K1 resistors at the +/-15V powered audio VCA's.
 
Yes, I use THAT 2180.

In this case, I omit 47r and use 3k9 resistor. And 5k1 on the VCA +/-15v section. Right?

The other doubt that I have is for wiring the bypass switch. What it means " wires to bypass sw or link on PCB "?

Thanks a lot!
 
spoontex said:
The other doubt that I have is for wiring the bypass switch. What it means " wires to bypass sw or link on PCB "?
Meaning is, optionally having a double pole bypass switch in order to disconnect the makeup gain when in bypass mode,
else a single pole bypass switch would be sufficcient and these two connecting spots would be joined by a wire link instead of prementioned 2nd pole of this switch, so varying/makeup gain would still be operating, although in bypass mode.
Looking back in this thread, the different type (rotary-, toggle- or pushbutton switch) and wiring is responsible for >90% of a non functional device, so when asking for "the switch", be very specific about "your" switch.
 

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