Majestic12 builds Drip Fairchild 670

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bancho said:
I like the original frontpanel version very much but I see there is a significant difference: on the original version there are only 2 "big" knobs (Gain and Treshold) while on Tat's version there are 3 (Gain, Treshold and Ratio). How can this be applied to Drip's pcb?

The knob labeled "ratio" is just the DC threshold which in the original unit can only be accessed when removing the front panel. Tat decided to put it directly on the frontpanel.
 
Dear baadc0de,

So nice unit!...Awsome!

Where do you got the chassis case(part number and supplier)??
How about the total cost of the complete unit??

Thanks a lot,
Opacheco.
 
Looks nice...probably sounds nice too, but you're still looking at 3 grand + for the build.
 
Majestic12 said:
Very nice.

Did you encounter any bigger problems concerning the calibration process ?

No, actually I didn't. We had some problems with the M/S matrix, where my colleague who was doing wiring misread the channel number of the in-phase output. So we had some fun with -10dB loss on one channel etc.

The voltages were OK right off the bat and the bias I'm reserving judgement for since it seems that the tubes must really get burned-in before you can make an accurate setting.

desol said:
Looks nice...probably sounds nice too, but you're still looking at 3 grand + for the build.

Yeah, sounds nice actually. Nobody's sure if it is actually worth its parts, but for me so far as I'm using it it seems to be a pretty smokin' buss compressor and great for vocals too. The different timeconstants are all mostly usable.
 
Interesting thread!

Does anyone have any hunches as to what metal was used to make the original chassis of the FC670? Is it still available these days?
 
marc11657 said:
Interesting thread!

Does anyone have any hunches as to what metal was used to make the original chassis of the FC670? Is it still available these days?

marc11657,
That's info will be great!! but if some one have the engineering drawing of the Original Chassis will be fantastic!!....Does someone knows where could I find this Chassis dimensions and spec.??

Opacheco.
 
opacheco said:
marc11657 said:
Interesting thread!

Does anyone have any hunches as to what metal was used to make the original chassis of the FC670? Is it still available these days?

marc11657,
That's info will be great!! but if some one have the engineering drawing of the Original Chassis will be fantastic!!....Does someone knows where could I find this Chassis dimensions and spec.??

Opacheco.

Indeed Opacheco! I am looking for the drawing of the chassis too, in particular a wiring layout (not the schematic). I have read in the manual that the dimensions are:


Standard 19" rack, 14" panel space, depth behind panel 11"
approx 65 lbs.


Unfortunately I forget who made this or where I found this but there's also a nice design layout of the front panel.

670Dimensions%20front%20pannel.jpg
 
I've spoken to a few metal experts (not Iron Maiden fans) who have all come back saying the same sort of thing. They believe the metal used for the casing on the 670 is mild steel with a thickness of either 1.5 or 2.0mm. It has been painted with light admiralty grey paint.
 
I'm also curious if anybody has experimented with upgraded caps.  Has anybody gone with Mundorf or Auricap on a Drip 670 build so far?  I'm gathering the transformers and other expensive parts before I commit any solder to this awesome PCB.  Should I consider boutique caps as well?
 
Hello all. Long time lurker, first time poster. Also a 670 nut.

In my personal hunt for 670 documentation I seem to find there is almost as much mis-information as information.

The face plate drawing above is a good example. Some controls arent labeled correctly and dimensions left off, i.e. locations of "zero" and "balance" holes.

For sometime I have wanted to do an accurate remake of one for personal use. I commend the efforts of CJ and others who have bitten off this massive task. I wont start with construction until I have reached critical mass on acquiring the critical items to do an authentic remake. This way if I dont get there, I know I can sell the stash of vintage parts Ive accumulated.

Mark
 
Mark beside 5 A ,  left , right , vert ect. , how do you mount this face plate ?
 

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Where did you come across that picture? (hoping the poster is still around).

That front panel is fairly accurate. It is mounted as follows. There are three through holes on the lower left side of that panel and two on the lower right side. The bottom two hole on each side bolt to a folded steel piece that forms a hinge. The third through hole on the left side (the upper one) is where the power indicator lamp socket is mounted.
 

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