D's are certainly more fragile and also you need to be careful in the selection of the hood so that you don't have a problem with the large diameter of the 8pr. If you use a slide-latch it will be easier to deal with and be without the thumb screws that tend to catch on everything as you reel in the cable. Get some extra mating connectors to protect the ends when disconnected, or get some caps. Caps will help protect the pins on the males, but won't keep the flange from crushing. I like the machined pins best, but regular crimp or soldered are fine if the strain relief is good.
The advantage to using the D's is that if you use a standard pinout, you will have Pro Tools/Tascam/whatever breakouts, which may be useful in other circumstances.
Elco/Edac connectors are more bulky, but the bifurcated contact is reliable, and the sexless pin is an advantage. If you use them, put the receptacles with locking nut on the snake portion, and the plugs with actuating screws on the fanout. That way, the part that is dragged around is most protected and least likely to snag. Use the ADAT standard pinout for compatibility with other devices.
Similar to the Elco/Edac is the Cannon DL. The DL is a zero insertion force connector and will last for an unlimited number of cycles. It's a little more compact than the Elco/Edac setup and, if I recall correctly, you can use an Elco 56 metal hood with one to make it more indestructible.
AMP CPC "Circular Plastic Connectors" are a great low cost - high reliability connector. Not as sturdy as some metal equivalents, but nearly so, and lighter, plus less damaging to the floor that you drag it over. Super easy to connect.
For any of these, try to find the highest quality tooling you can get. eBay usually has the tools that list for $150-$700 for $15-$25. If you are crimping a pin with insulation support, make sure to set your tool to support the insulation, not crush it!