Laser engraving, transfer tape and in-fill

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

deveng

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2005
Messages
371
Location
California
I'm building a pair of EZ1073's and designing my own front panels.  These won't be too much different than Colin's or Dan's panels since the hole spacing and control markings are fixed with the design.  I've gone through the usual pros and cons of choices, CNC milling/engraving, powder coat with silk screen and laser engraving.  There was no clear cut winner unless you have unlimited funds.  I want the most authentic look and color and I don't want to spend a fortune getting it.  During my search I happened upon Joe Malone's Neve panels and Chuck Dickenson's response about laser engraving with in-fill.  I did some more research and found this appears to be an excellent option. 

Laser engravers have been using "transfer tape" for a long time.  It is similar to Chuck's description of using masking tape but transfer tape may be a better option.  I've contacted my local trophy engraver and he can do this technique.  So, I'm going to do a small test panel first.  Humbrol has 14ml tins of Extra Dark Sea Grey enamel.  I'll purchase a HVLP detail spray gun and paint/bake a small piece of raw aluminum.  I believe I can get the transfer tape (or try masking tape) and work with the engraver on laser power and number of passes.  Once the engraving is done, spray the panel with a white enamel, then peel the transfer tape off.  I may need to adjust the text and art sizes to keep the edges clean and crisp. 

For you paint and laser engraving experts, how many 14ml tins would I need to paint 2 EZ1073 panels, a small 4"x4' test panel and have a bit extra just in case for touch ups?  Will the Humbrol solvent based enamel work well with laser engraving if properly applied and baked?  The option of powder coat with this color is too expensive.  Will the 2mm dots around the controls or any other small text/art engrave and in-fill clearly using this technique?  Finally will the enamel paint survive the application and removal of the transfer tape without scratching or damaging the painted surface?

I'm going to give this procedure a shot and I'll let you all know how well (or bad) it turns out.

regards,
Jeff
 
I've used this technique quite a few times with varying results.  My first suggestion is that you take a fine paintbrush and a vacuum and make sure all the soot that's left behind by the engraving process is out of the areas you're going to paint. Second, make sure the laser engraver got all the way down to bare metal.  Sometimes this takes more than one pass, depending on the finish underneath the tape. Third, especially on aluminum, it's better to use a thin coat of primer (I use zinc chromate) before painting.  Fourth, I've had the best luck with automotive spray paint.  And last, let the paint cure at least 2 days (or more) before removing the tape.

Good Luck,

Joe
 
Thanks for the suggestions Joe.  The Humbrol is solvent based enamel so I hope it works well.  As I understand it, enamel is the paint of choice for laser engraving.  I've contacted my local auto body guy and he'll do the prep, primer and paint on the 2 panels for $30.  That's cheaper than buying my own detail gun.  He'll bake it too.  I planned on waiting at least a few days (probably a week) to let the paint really harden before engraving. 

I was not sure how long to wait to pull the transfer tape.  When I've done house trim I found pulling while the paint is still soft and tacky (within an 1/2 hour) makes the cleanest edges.  Waiting too long tends to peel the paint up.  Since this will be a very thin layer of paint in the engravings it might be a different story.  I'll do a test board first with the same white spray paint to get the technique and timing down so the edges of the fine engraving stay detailed and clean.  I'll try some early tape pulls and your recommendation of a couple of days as well!

regards,
Jeff
 
Just received my 1073 (AML version) panels from Front Panel Express.  They're raw aluminum but the CNC work looks perfect.  I changed the vertical spacings to fit my enclosure and all it has is the holes and cavities.  Cavities were enlarged to fit Chuck's red and blue Neve knobs.  I created all the engraving and logo work in Illustrator for the laser engraver.  I'll be taking them over to the auto body shop for the Neve style paint job.  The next step will be having my hand painted API312 (rack of eight) laser engraved using the protection tape.  These will be my test for the 1073 panels.  If the API312's panels engrave and in-fill well I'll have them do the 1073's next.  I'll do all my learning on these instead of the 1073 panels.

Much more work than just having them CNC engraved with a stock color panel, but in the the end, I hope it will look much more authentic!

Regards,
Jeff
 
Finally got the panels painted.  Paint work was good but not as good as I had hoped.  I'm a perfectionist!  Those are Chuck's beautiful Neve style knobs sitting in the cavities.  Since I live in California the regulations on paint is stringent.  Body shops can no longer use solvent based enamels.  You can use these paints yourself, so I found an auto body paint guy to do a side job at home with his personal detail gun.  The cost was much more than originally quoted so it may now be smart to buy a detail gun and paint myself.  On the next set of panels I'll go that way. 

Next step is the laser engraving and in-fill.  I'll post pics of that soon.

G1073_paint002.jpg


 

Latest posts

Back
Top