bsconz
Member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2012
- Messages
- 23
Title says it all! I spent about a week reading and gather information about how to do the Royer Mod to an MXL 2001. Bought some stuff from Mouser and my local electronic supply store. Got a Jensen DB/E-U transformer for the mic output (still waiting for that as of writing this) and the Big Ugly PCB's from member Blue Jinn (only used the mic PCB). With the original Royer Mod schematics (from the pdf of the Tape Op article) and Big Ugly mic PCB sitting right in front of me, I was able to populate the PCB to my liking and create the circuit. At first I was planning on using perf board and wiring this point to point but I opted for a cleaner look.
My tube wound up being a Sonotone 5840 and herein lies my question: are the pin numberings/locations standard like other vacuum tubes say for guitar amps? Meaning, when looking at the bottom of the tube (with the 8 leads facing up toward your face and the missing pin or gap at 6 o'clock) is pin 1 located to the left of the gap? Then I assume they are sequential from there.
Also, I did a couple things that I think worked out pretty well that I thought I would share.
1) I put the 2 capacitors up from the bottom of the board. I left one lead of C1 sticking all the way to provide a contact point for the capsule lead that needs to attach to it and R4. I put some black insulation over the capacitor lead and left a small bare spot to connect the capsule lead to.
2) I left the pin 1 lead (or at least what I think the pin 1 lead is) sticking straight out of the tube like Royer describes instead of wiring it to the PCB. I put a little bit of insulation on that too and will connect the red capsule lead directly to it (the red capsule lead looks a little more brown than read in the picture).
Also, I built my PSU into a small Pelican case and it came out great. I started a separate thread for the questions I had relating to the PSU here http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=49273.0
My tube wound up being a Sonotone 5840 and herein lies my question: are the pin numberings/locations standard like other vacuum tubes say for guitar amps? Meaning, when looking at the bottom of the tube (with the 8 leads facing up toward your face and the missing pin or gap at 6 o'clock) is pin 1 located to the left of the gap? Then I assume they are sequential from there.
Also, I did a couple things that I think worked out pretty well that I thought I would share.
1) I put the 2 capacitors up from the bottom of the board. I left one lead of C1 sticking all the way to provide a contact point for the capsule lead that needs to attach to it and R4. I put some black insulation over the capacitor lead and left a small bare spot to connect the capsule lead to.
2) I left the pin 1 lead (or at least what I think the pin 1 lead is) sticking straight out of the tube like Royer describes instead of wiring it to the PCB. I put a little bit of insulation on that too and will connect the red capsule lead directly to it (the red capsule lead looks a little more brown than read in the picture).
Also, I built my PSU into a small Pelican case and it came out great. I started a separate thread for the questions I had relating to the PSU here http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=49273.0