REDD EQ, Helios 69 and Dick Swettenham

but they get nowhere near 10H

Click to expand...

Can I borrow a couple of those hundreds... I need more zeros.

The second batch of REDD EQ PCBs arrived in the post this morning. I'll be shipping outstanding orders over the next couple of days.

Cheers

Ian

Sleeper said:

Hi Ian,
I'm waiting to hear back from Hairball Audio.  He's contacted Grayhill, so we'll see if those switches become available in the states...

Click to expand...

Any updates from Hairball?

Hi All,
He got prices back and doesn't want to do it.
I also got swamped with tons of work. (Yay! ) but I don't have time to do a group buy.

So the options are,
Something like $27 each and an 8-10 week lead time from digi key

That's not for me... I'll lose interest. ???

Or  -since I'm making a stereo pair
from audiomanitenance
5, 1p12t  and 1, 3p12t   
then
disassemble the 3p and make it a 2p and
add the leftover deck to a 1p  to make a 2P

BUT  I haven't tried to disassemble one of these, but I'll bet it isn't to difficult.
I've dis-assembled coles and davens and leaf switches and they aren't too bad.
I'm only guessing for now.

OR  make Ian's mastering version that's all switches.
I'm going this route.
BTW I'm referring to the Helios PCB  (I don't know about the Redd)
Then,
use 1p switches in all 3 slots. 
Add 3 lorlins - 1 for each of the pots to make it stepped for mastering
and 1 for the 50hz low pass     
the drawing that shows you how to do this is on the previous page of the thread.

I've figured out how to do this on the board but it's hard to describe.
My switches are on order now and I'll share a photo when I'm all done.
Kelly

I am tempted to realize a couple of these equalizers, but the grayhill switches are really expensive.
It is possible that someone has found the way to use other 2 pole 12 positions switches?

This was discussed earlier. RTTD

You can use Lorlins or Alphas at about 3 bucks each but you have to solder 12 wires between the board and the switches. 
The 2 pole grayhill can be wired as 2 separate switches  and once again you have to solder 12 wires between the board and the switches.

The single pole grayhills are about 16 dollars vs about 3 for the Lorlins.
But the lorlins will take much longer to mount

I haven't found any other PC mount rotary switches and you do need to use the grayhills if you are going to build this into a 500 series format. 
If not, do what you like.

Well I pulled the trigger on ordering the rest of the components. Carnhill inductors from audio maintenance, grayhill's from digikey. Digikey estimated a 4 week lead time which for me isn't too bad. I'll report back when I actually receive them (hopefully 2 weeks).

I'm kind of into the way Ian redrew the low end though.
Now instead of either a 50hz cut OR a boost at 30, 60, 120, 240, 400
it's a cut AND a boost.  I'll bet that's going to sound cool    sometimes.

Strawtles, the only solution to save money with these switches is if someone will do a group buy

I placed an order for the Grayhill switches from Digikey and they were delivered two weeks after the order. Digikey estimates a 4 week lead time but it was much faster for me. So any of you who are hesitant about ordering from Digikey because of a long lead time you need not fear!

Hi Eparg, what's the code you used to order the 2 way 12 positions switch from Digikey?

Strawtles said:

Hi Eparg, what's the code you used to order the 2 way 12 positions switch from Digikey?

Click to expand...

Hey,

I ordered these switches: 71BDF30-02PAJN

Direct link: http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=gh7107-nd

Seems that they now have 41 in stock!

Thank you eparg!
I have seen that for large quantities the price goes down

hi ian,

i cant seem to find these pcb's in your emporium?
will you be updating, as i need to place a multiple pcb order ?

cheers
mick

leadbreath said:

hi ian,

i cant seem to find these pcb's in your emporium?
will you be updating, as i need to place a multiple pcb order ?

cheers
mick

Click to expand...

Sorry about that. I updated the forum page but not the web page. Both should have the REDDEQ listed now.

Cheers

Ian

Sleeper said:

I'm kind of into the way Ian redrew the low end though.
Now instead of either a 50hz cut OR a boost at 30, 60, 120, 240, 400
it's a cut AND a boost.  I'll bet that's going to sound cool    sometimes.

Click to expand...

So I've been busy, but I'm back to it.
I' believe I've got all the switching sorted out:  this is diagrammed in the document here.
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=51030.msg671466#msg671466

Ian, can you confirm something for me?
I'm 99% sure, but as it involves lopping off the pole/leg on that center grayhill mid freq switch.
I shouldn't have soldered it, but I also don't have a spare board to look at to be 100% sure.
As we've all just discussed, the grayhills aren't cheap, so I'm playing it safe.

My midrange switch (center) pole should attach to the grayhill's switch (center) pole and nothing else yes?

Here are some images.

I'll post more pics of the implementation once I'm sure it works :-X

Sleeper said:

My midrange switch (center) pole should attach to the grayhill's switch (center) pole and nothing else yes?

Click to expand...

Yes, the mid range switched pot centre pole goes only to the centre pole of the mid range grayhill and nowhere else.

Cheers

Ian

Just curious... Has anyone done a panel mockup for this yet? I've been trying to but haven't got any results worth mentioning yet. I'm trying to figure out a way of having the cut/boost dB numbers as well as the frequency numbers and not have it look cluttered, etc. I thought if I saw what some of you other guys are doing it might help get the old creative juices flowing.

Here's one side of a helios Mastering version - all stepped controls.
Although I normally like my high-end on the right and my low on the left, I prefer not to mount my boards from the roof.
Not sure about the redd, but the Helios also presents the dilemma of having a midrange control that steps over the high boost/cut - but for me the mid is the most important feature.

I don't find that a polar array of the text elements ever really looks right.  you have to nudge things around a bit to get it to look proper.  I use the array in the center to mark my switch steps and to give me a drilling center, it's not in the final print.

Sleeper said:

Here's one side of a helios Mastering version - all stepped controls.
Although I normally like my high-end on the right and my low on the left, I prefer not to mount my boards from the roof.

Click to expand...

Nice layout. Am I correct in assuming left and right have separate controls? Is that an advantage for mastering or is it simply to simplify the switching.

Cheers

ian