RODE NT2 J.W. MOD - schematic attached

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ln76d

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Joined
Aug 11, 2012
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Hi guys,

here's a RODE NT2 (NT1 also) Jim Williams mod updated in schematic. This is an old NT2 not NT2A.
For comparing - original and circuit with mod.
Since i took it from Jim Williams descriptions on several forums and pictures of original moded NT1 i need to check it. If someone will find some errors, please report it. I will paste Jim Williams descriptions soon.
I should finish modding my NT2 in a week or two so i share how it works.
It's a probability that my NT2 wouldn't be working, i'm not shure that my capsule is fine :D
Thanks for help Tony ;)

Have fun!
 

Attachments

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Hi ln76d,

thanks for sharing this info.  I have an old NT2 also and have been reading about Jim Williams' mod, so your schematic is very helpful!  I've collated all the posts I could find where Jim wrote about this mod (3 or 4 different threads from various forums), and copy/pasted it to a txt file.  I've just tried to organise his comments to get a clearer idea of exactly what to do, and this is what I ended up with:  (headings in bold are my summaries)

---EDIT-- (I've gone through and added references for all of Jim Williams' comments, as well as the date he made the comments, as I thought it would help to clarify some of the confusing details.  There's also a few new posts I found and added to this list)

Jim Williams:  I recently went through my set of original NT-2's. I found a few things to fix up insides.

RF/stabilisation

- I replaced the 2 output ferrite beads with 22.1k Dale CMF60 resistors, that solved some loading problems.1
- I added a pair of 56.2 ohm output series resistors to help stabilize the mic on long cable runs.2
- ...the inductors off the output leads need to have a series resistor installed, I use 56.2 ohms. That stablizes the mics driving long lines and rejects rf.3
- I...removed the 2 ferrite beads on the outputs and replaced them with a pair of Dale 22.1 ohm CMF60 resistors, that solves some loading problems.5
- I lifted up one end of the original ferrite beads on the outputs and added 56.2 ohm series resistors. That solves loading and rf pickup problems.6

Coupling caps 

- The .15 uf Wima interstage coupling caps were changed to small 1 uf stack mylar film caps to extend the low end to below 20 hz, I added .01 uf polyprops underneath as bypass caps.1
- ...the .1 uf signal coupling Wima MKP-2 caps are bypassed with .68 uf MKS-2 to extend the low end, it's thin to me...On these two NT-2's I rewired the capsule so the polarization voltage is applied to the backplate, that eliminates any caps in the signal path, the capsule is wired directly to the low noise jfet gate...Another error are two 1000 pf Wima polyprop film caps in the signal path, only one needs to be there with that wiring.2
- Other mods include removing the input coupling caps3
- Other fixes are re-setting the polarization voltage to +62 volts and re-wiring the capsule/front end so the back plate is polarized. That removed the input 1000 pf blocking cap. The sonics really open up if that cap is removed.6

Bias

- The bias polarization voltage was a bit high. I added a 1.5k resistor in series with the voltage feed to that pcb. I removed the 6.2V zener diode on the main audio pcb to provide a higher voltage to that oscillator pcb. I then added a 220 uf/25V cap after that 1.5k resistor and placed a 6.0~6.2 V zener acorss that cap to limit the voltage. The 1N4148 rectifier diodes were changed to 1N4934 rectifier diodes. The end result is to get that polarization voltage to +60 volts, measured in front of the 1 meg resistor on that pcb.1
- ...the polarization voltage is too low, I rebuilt those cards to deliver 60 volts.2
- ...the capsule polarization voltage is set too high. It needs to come down to +60 volts. To do that, I install a series resisor (1.5K) from the + V line feeding the oscillator pcb. Then a zener diode is fitted to clamp that voltage down until +60 volts is reached. Anything from 6.2 to 8.5V zeners will get there, select imperically.3
- The 6 k psu feed resistor was changed to 3.9k to allow richer biasing2
- ...the polarization voltage was a bit high, like 70 volts. I removed the DC converter pcb and added a series 1500 ohm resistor to the + voltage input and added a large 330 uf cap with a 6.0 V zener clamp. That along with some fast recovery rectifiers set the polarization voltage right at 60 volts.5
- Other fixes are re-setting the polarization voltage to +62 volts6

Backplate polarization

- On these two NT-2's I rewired the capsule so the polarization voltage is applied to the backplate, that eliminates any caps in the signal path, the capsule is wired directly to the low noise jfet gate.2
- ...wiring the capsule switch directly to the jfet gate. That requires polarizing the capsule back plate instead of the diaphram. Then the output wires are reversed from pin's 2+3 on the XLR to retain phase.4
- Other fixes are re-setting the polarization voltage to +62 volts and re-wiring the capsule/front end so the back plate is polarized.6

Capsule brightness compensation

- On one I kept the K67 capsule. There are a pair of Wima FKP-2 470 pf green box roll-off caps fitted. I increased those to tame the tops of that capsule. I ended up with Wima MKP-2 3300 pf, it sounds very much more like a U-87 curve, the screaming 12k hz peaks are gone. On another I used a C-12 capsule. I left the 470 pf caps in place. It sounds very good, but the headbasket design adds some low mid resonance that I don't like. That quality is gone in other mics I've installed those in.1
- As to "tuning" the k-67 style capsules, I changed the 470 pf roll-off caps to 5600 pf, that smooths it all out very nice. On these I'm replacing those original 32 mm capsules with new Chi-com 34 mm k-67 copies, those sound very good.2
- The circuit was designed flat to 50k hz. If you use the original or a k-67/87 capsule, those have a large hf lift that needs to be attenuated. Replace the 470 pf green Wima FKP-2 caps with 5600 pf to smooth those out, including the original capsules.4
- ...to cure the excessive k-87 capsule's 12k hz peaks, I changed the 470 pf roll-off caps and ended up with 3300 pf. That tamed the 12k peaks and gave the mic a very U-87'ish quality I'm enjoying. Replacing the capsule is another option, one I fitted with a C-12 capsule.5
- Those designs used an early version of the 32 mm k-67 capsule design. The Microphone Parts k-67 or k-87 is the best replacement choice to retain the original sonics. Those are accurate 34 mm designs, like Neumann. In mine I replaced the 470 pf roll-off caps with 5600 pf, that smooths out the tops. If you use a k-47, the entire sound will change with bumps at 3~5k hz added. Not a bad sound, but not what you are used to.6

Oscillator filtering

- One mistake is the oscillator pcb, the .47 Wima polycarbonate cap is wired from the oscillator output to the + 13 volt rail, it should be cut from that and soldered to ground to filter out the ocillator waveform from the capsule.2
- I also screened the oscillator pcb, that eliminates the huge amount of oscillator leakage into the audio path, look at the output of these mics on a scope to see that, it's present in most of the Schoeps knock-off circuits. If I don't do that, the large oscillator waveform can exceed the audio waveform in quiet situations, run that into my wideband (40 mhz) mic preamps and the oscillator waveform silently clips the mic preamp!2
- There is also a lot of oscillator leakage into the outputs, you can see that on a scope. A piece of copper foil across the rear of the oscillator pcb stops that.4

Headbasket reflections

- Other fixes include raising the capsule post a bit to eliminate the dome reflections that creates a bump at 200 hz.7


1 http://www.gearslutz.com/board/low-end-theory/703858-rode-nt1-headbasket-mod.html    (28th February 2012)

2 http://www.gearslutz.com/board/so-much-gear-so-little-time/729290-rode-nt2-worth-repairing.html  ( 18th May 2012)

3 http://messageboard.tapeop.com/viewtopic.php?p=665360&sid=c47e8eb788cf5d6f43587e577f2a259b  (10th August, 2012)

4 http://messageboard.tapeop.com/viewtopic.php?p=665468  (10th August, 2012)

5 http://www.gearslutz.com/board/so-much-gear-so-little-time/702797-my-rode-adventures.html    (23rd February, 2012)

6 http://messageboard.tapeop.com/viewtopic.php?p=679017  (18th March, 2013)

7 http://messageboard.tapeop.com/viewtopic.php?p=665384&sid=1d099e6706003b928caa8d1cab39e891  (10th August, 2012)


There's a couple of mods which seem different on your schematic to what Jim is describing.  Regarding the RF/stabilisation 56.2 ohm resistor, I read that to mean he ADDED the 56.2 ohm resistor in series with the inductor - you seem to have removed the output inductors entirely.  Maybe I'm reading it wrong...

Also, you didn't change C12 and C13 from 470pf to 5600 pf to compensate for the capsule top end boost (I assume it's C12 and C13 that Jim is referring to???).

Thanks!
 
My apologies, seems Jim Williams does remove the output inductors and replace them with the 56.2 ohm resistor.  Found this after more googling:

I recently went through my pair of NT-2's. I found a couple of design mistakes I made. The polarization voltage is too high, I rebuilt the oscillator pcb to deliver +60 volts. I removed the two ferrite beads on the outputs and replaced them with 56.2 ohm resistors. That help stabilize the mics on long cable runs and helps damp the polarization oscillator leakage into the audio path.

On one I replaced the capsule with a C-12. For the stock K-67 capsule I replaced the 470 pf caps across the 100 k resistors with 5600 pf. That tunes the response down closer to flat and removes that large 12k hz peak.

Not too hot on the C-12 conversion. The headbasket affects the tone in a not so good way, the same capsule and circuit in that cheapo MCA SP-1 is much smoother, a better head basket design.
  From http://messageboard.tapeop.com/viewtopic.php?printertopic=1&t=79737&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=30&sid=8605462e9b97e2c7557269609fa90263 Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 10:48 am
 
Hi,

thanks for interest of the topic.
I forgot change c12 and c13 on the schematic. Physically i've done this:)
I will update schematic when i check all of those mods.
For now i'm not sure that my capsule is working...
Jim mounts 56.2 resistors in place of inductors. I have photos of moded NT1 by Jim.
In my NT2 i put those resistors in series with ferrite beads (like in original schematic).
Only thing i'm not sure should i put 1Gohm resistor between Capsule backplate and the "CAP-B" section.
I have no time and patience to finish this mod right now, but when i do that with progress i will share with all infos:)
 
I edited my first post so that Jim Williams' comments make more sense, and to add references.

I'm not sure about where to put R32 - the 1000 Meg ohm resistor - either.  I did a quick search for "Schoeps backplate polarization" but couldn't find anything that was conclusive to my slow brain...  Maybe someone who better understands the circuit can chime in?  ;)
 
Interesting thread! About time the NT2 got some TLC. Can't wait to hear about everyone's results with these mods...

Jim Williams designed the NT2 and NT1 originally, didn't he?
 
I think I see a small error...
In the high-pass position (low-Z termination of the capsule), an extra resistor is connected between the gate of the FET and ground.
This will disturb the bias voltage!
(A capacitor in series with the resistor will solve this.)
 
RuudNL said:
I think I see a small error...
In the high-pass position (low-Z termination of the capsule), an extra resistor is connected between the gate of the FET and ground.
This will disturb the bias voltage!
(A capacitor in series with the resistor will solve this.)

Thanks RuudNL for help!
I don't  exactly know what you mean.
If you mean R33 (this one is an extra in high position - from my view :) ) - it's connected to the oscillator  board.
It is form original schematic. Of course if you mean this resistor :)
 
Little progress.

In attachment is the corrected circuit of the mod.
Am using alctron 32mm capsule (k67 style?).

How it sounds? Hm...

Cardiod - pretty good, no harshnesssss :) Overall microphone is not so loud?!?

Omni - weird... Much quiet and "thinner" than cardioid...

Hi pass filter (on both patterns) - noisy as hell...

Any ideas about the mod circuit, what could goes wrong?
 

Attachments

  • RODE NT2 MOD.jpg
    RODE NT2 MOD.jpg
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ln76d said:
Hi pass filter (on both patterns) - noisy as hell...

Any ideas about the mod circuit, what could goes wrong?
Both original & modded circuit are flawed.  This is a terrible way to implement Hi Pass in a mike.

I won't comment about the other 'features' and 'corrections'.
 
RuudNL said:
I fully agree with Ricardo...
Just terminating the capsule with a low impedance is probably the worst way to implement a hi-pass filter!

Probably, but truly i don't care about hi-pass filter at all. I'm not using it. In this case i treat the noise of it as a symptom of that there something goes wrong... Other symptom is huge difference between cardioid and  omni pattern. Any ideas?
 
It's hard to tell, truly i don't remember :) Even if it was, this "feautre" for sure couldn't make that big difference.
Please tell me ricardo, what should i change to remove hi-pass filter? Keeping only the Pad would be ok in your opinion?
 
ln76d said:
RuudNL said:
I think I see a small error...
In the high-pass position (low-Z termination of the capsule), an extra resistor is connected between the gate of the FET and ground.
This will disturb the bias voltage!
(A capacitor in series with the resistor will solve this.)

Thanks RuudNL for help!
I don't  exactly know what you mean.
If you mean R33 (this one is an extra in high position - from my view :) ) - it's connected to the oscillator  board.
It is form original schematic. Of course if you mean this resistor :)

If you look at the schematic, you will see that CAP-A is connected to the gate of the FET.
Bacause you took out C15, the gate of the FET is now connected to ground through the 20 K resistor (R33), when the high-pass filter is active. This disturbs the bias voltage. Also: 20 K is extremely low, even if you accept the strange hi-pass construction.
 
RuudNL said:
If you look at the schematic, you will see that CAP-A is connected to the gate of the FET.
Bacause you took out C15, the gate of the FET is now connected to ground through the 20 K resistor (R33), when the high-pass filter is active. This disturbs the bias voltage. Also: 20 K is extremely low, even if you accept the strange hi-pass construction.

Ha! I was thinking that you mean C21, so i back to it :) Should i replace C15 and throw out C21? I can throw out high pass filter, but the pad would be good option, should i remove R33 only?
 
Other symptom is huge difference between cardioid and  omni pattern.
Was this 'feature' in the original NT2?
ln76d said:
It's hard to tell, truly i don't remember :) Even if it was, this "feautre" for sure couldn't make that big difference.
Please tell me ricardo, what should i change to remove hi-pass filter? Keeping only the Pad would be ok in your opinion?
My question was whether the original NT2 had the 'huge difference between cardioid & omni".

If both original & modded circuits are JW's, they both have some really bad faults.

Yes, get rid of R33.
 

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