Next, locate the remaining 2 long standoffs for the meter board.

Install the first standoff making sure to use a lock washer.

And the second one in the same manner.

Next, secure the rear of the PCB with the remaining screws and split lock washers.

Next, locate these 3 toggle switches for the meter board.

And set them in place on the front side of the meter board. For my installation, the switches held in place at this time via friction fit, so I will not solder them yet until I have the meter board secured in final position so all of the switches will be guaranteed to align perfectly.

Next, I begin placing the meter LED's making sure to heed the polarity of the LED's. Note, the short solder pads correspond to the shorter lead on the LED units. In this step, I deviated from the build documentation that recommends cutting the LED leads to length before placing on the board. My main reason is I wanted to be extra careful not to make a mistake on the polarity of the LED's and I trust my finesse with wire cutters after soldering.

Placing all of the components first without trimming them to length allows me to visually confirm polarity with all of the LED's in position.

Next, place the meter board into final position and align all of the components to the front plate.

Locate the following hardware to secure the meter board.


Place a piece of console tape on the front plate to help hold the LED's in place for soldering.

And press all of the LED's firmly to the tape and re-verify polarity and colors.

With all of the LED's in final position and verified correctly oriented, solder the exposed pads.

Next, with the switches in final alignment against the front plate, we can solder them in place.

Carefully cut the excess LED leads at this time and visually confirm that the solder connections are clean and only touch the correct solder pads.


Next, remove the switch PCB from the main assembly, turn it over to the back side, and solder the remaining LED leads.


Carefully trim the back side LED leads in the same manner as the front and confirm there are no shorts beyond the designated pads for each connection.

With these components in place, now is a good time to clean the board with isopropyl alcohol.

Next, install the ceramic capacitors.


And the IC's making sure the notch in the chip corresponds to the notch in the silk screening on the PCB.


Next, populate the film capacitor.

Install the electrolytic capacitors making sure the confirm the correct polarity. The longer lead is + and the printed white stripe on the can is -.

Populate the cable connector.

. . .and CR1 diode and Q1 transistor.

With that, the meter PCB is fully populated.

If you are opting to clean the boards, scrub the flux off with isopropyl alcohol.


Nice and clean.

Next, locate the ribbon cable.

And install one end to the meter PCB. Note the location of the red wire in the ribbon cable. This corresponds to pin 1.

Re-install the fully populated meter PCB.

And connect the other end of the ribbon cable to the main PCB.

With the electronic components fully populated and the PCB's cleaned, refer back to the sorting sheet where we placed the information for our F3 and F4 FET's.

Copy this information to the designated white areas on the main PCB with a permanent marker.

Use console tape placed on top of socket wrench to install the knob nuts.

And set the knobs with an allen key.


Next, locate the colored inserts for the knobs. . .

. . . and install them into the knob centers.

With that, final assembly is complete.
