calrec PQ1549 help thread

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gyraf said:
I have dual 100k log pots, is it possible to wire one part of the pot  backwards?

Won't work.

Have you read the page about the project? Some options are mentioned there.

Jakob E.

Thanks yes I just wanted to know if there was a simple way to conect a log pot and change it to reverse instead open it and change the mechanism I was searching but there is so many kinds of pots people sell on internet, some of them refers to reverse log tape C, others says is tape D, so I already ordered C100k  I hope they work,

Thanks
 
audiophreak said:
I could only attach one file - here's the PDF  of the panel graphics, cheers  :)
Thanks a lot for sharing. I might use this.
Very good looking unit :)

I have to get my pots and buttons sorted. Is it easy to order wrong dimensions?

The Q narrow-wide is upside down from what I first would assume. But that is because pcbs are mounted upside-down, right?

Anybody who wants a credit-logo on the front?
(Calrec, Gyraf, audiophreak?)
 

Attachments

  • Chips Calrec PQ Panel Graphic.pdf
    116.7 KB · Views: 49
G-Sun said:
audiophreak said:
I could only attach one file - here's the PDF  of the panel graphics, cheers  :)
Thanks a lot for sharing. I might use this.
Very good looking unit :)

Thanks G-Sun , as I'm sure you know its a labor of love :)

I have to get my pots and buttons sorted. Is it easy to order wrong dimensions?

not quite sure what you mean , if you're talking about the outside diameter of the push button caps , the Alps caps are 0.410" or 10.4mm and the ones I got off ebay are 0.310" or 7.88mm , I used the smaller diameter to have a little more room between the knobs - however I could have used smaller diameter knobs :)  the switch posts are 3.3mm ( measured 3.28mm)
*  with my panel graphic if you use the Alps switch caps, the hole for the High Shelf button will cut in to the High Freq. adjust graphic lines a little ( but not horribly )


The Q narrow-wide is upside down from what I first would assume. But that is because pcbs are mounted upside-down, right?

  when the Q switch is UP / not pushed in , the Q is wide - when it is DOWN or pushed IN the Q is narrow - so I put the wide graphic over the button and the narrow graphic below the button.

Anybody who wants a credit-logo on the front?
(Calrec, Gyraf, audiophreak?)

Thanks !!  I'm good though , This forum/place /home is just fantastic and I don't think I've been able to contribute much technically, so I'm happy offer the graphic here if any member wishes to use it  :) 
 
audiophreak said:
Thanks G-Sun , as I'm sure you know its a labor of love :)
I have to get my pots and buttons sorted. Is it easy to order wrong dimensions?

not quite sure what you mean , if you're talking about the outside diameter of the push button caps , the Alps caps are 0.410" or 10.4mm and the ones I got off ebay are 0.310" or 7.88mm , I used the smaller diameter to have a little more room between the knobs - however I could have used smaller diameter knobs :)  the switch posts are 3.3mm ( measured 3.28mm)
*  with my panel graphic if you use the Alps switch caps, the hole for the High Shelf button will cut in to the High Freq. adjust graphic lines a little ( but not horribly )


The Q narrow-wide is upside down from what I first would assume. But that is because pcbs are mounted upside-down, right?

  when the Q switch is UP / not pushed in , the Q is wide - when it is DOWN or pushed IN the Q is narrow - so I put the wide graphic over the button and the narrow graphic below the button.

Thanks !!  I'm good though , This forum/place /home is just fantastic and I don't think I've been able to contribute much technically, so I'm happy offer the graphic here if any member wishes to use it  :)
Well, thanks for sharing! It's looking really nice, so I'll try to make mine as fine as yours.

Pots: I was thinking for lining them with the wholes. Is it standard dimensions or should I take special care?

BTW: How do I make such a fancy powerbutten?
 
The power switch I got from Mouser - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bulgin/MP0045-1E2BL012/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhPnmJxD2BeVorYmT7BsVbo%252bMymC0TanDKywywohJ6r1Lp5PN55JARn

or

http://no.farnell.com/bulgin/mp0045-1e2bl012/switch-dpco-3a-250vac-blue-ring/dp/1332000?ost=MP0045%2F1E2BL012

still not understanding what you are saying about the pots , if you solder them to the PCB , the hole alignment is correct in my graphic. Its the push button switches that could be slightly off (  sides of the push button caps slightly rub on sides of hole in panel ) ..but desolder and reposition ( wiggle) of switches on PCB corrected this ,  not sure on how else to describe it. 

Hope this helps  :)
 
audiophreak said:
http://no.farnell.com/bulgin/mp0045-1e2bl012/switch-dpco-3a-250vac-blue-ring/dp/1332000?ost=MP0045%2F1E2BL012

still not understanding what you are saying about the pots , if you solder them to the PCB , the hole alignment is correct in my graphic. Its the push button switches that could be slightly off (  sides of the push button caps slightly rub on sides of hole in panel ) ..but desolder and reposition ( wiggle) of switches on PCB corrected this ,  not sure on how else to describe it. 

Hope this helps  :)
Thanks!
Looking at the wiring for the switch. Is it just +-in and +-out? There seems to be 8 poles..?
Nice one :)

Pots: I guess it's no issue then. Thanks!
 
audiophreak said:
use your DMM and meter the contacts out , that's what I did , basically th six in the middle  DPDT  and the top and bottom ones are 12v for the LED "On" indicator.
Ok thanks, then I understand.
12V? How did you supply that?
Diode drop times x ; 18V to 12V?
 
Hi all,
Just have an issue with a the Calrec mini PSU board. Basically I etched one to use for another projector (2x net EQ). Anyway, I used alternate regulators to get a 18v supply. The only issue is on my 30VA toroid, the secondaries seem to be a bit hotter than normal. So I end up with about -/+ 20V rather than 18v.

Question: is this within acceptable tolerance ? I thought opamps won't cope with this voltage ?

Any practical ways to get the voltage down with out having to rejig the whole circuit ... Could I drop it across a high wattage resistor ?

Cheers
 
20V at unload condition? That is OK in most cases, try that with some load and measure again, BTW if You use NE5532 op amp that's OK (+/-22V Max).
 
Nescafe said:
20V at unload condition? That is OK in most cases, try that with some load and measure again, BTW if You use NE5532 op amp that's OK (+/-22V Max).

Thanks for the quick reply....yes at unload - actually closer to 21v

It turns out I'm an idiot and I accidentally ordered a 30va 2x25 instead of 2x18...
Will 7818 and 7918 regs play nice with this extra voltage ?
The net eq is jam packed with ne5532s so I'm glad to hear they will cope with the surplus voltage...
 
frazzman said:
Nescafe said:
20V at unload condition? That is OK in most cases, try that with some load and measure again, BTW if You use NE5532 op amp that's OK (+/-22V Max).

Thanks for the quick reply....yes at unload - actually closer to 21v

It turns out I'm an idiot and I accidentally ordered a 30va 2x25 instead of 2x18...
Will 7818 and 7918 regs play nice with this extra voltage ?

They will with quite a bit of cooling, but you should really get the right trafo for the job instead of putting so much strain on such a crucial part of your circuit.

Gustav
 
So, getting my pots sorted:
10k lin: AML has these: http://www.audiomaintenance.com/acatalog/om-01-069_extended_info.html
but that's not center detent is it? And that's needed right?
So, Omega is my best bet then? Custom order http://www.omeg.co.uk/profile.htm
Yet, I don't see center detent as an option there, either.. ??

Dual 100k neg log is for fq and not center detent I presume.
( http://www.audiomaintenance.com/acatalog/om-01-072_extended_info.html )

Then I've noted 20mm diameter. That's correct, right?
The Omeg Eco-line was mentioned here, but that's 17mm diameter it seems (>>)
Maybe the P20 series then?
 
G-Sun said:
So, getting my pots sorted:
10k lin: AML has these: http://www.audiomaintenance.com/acatalog/om-01-069_extended_info.html
but that's not center detent is it? And that's needed right?
So, Omega is my best bet then? Custom order http://www.omeg.co.uk/profile.htm

Dual 100k neg log is for fq and not center detent I presume.
( http://www.audiomaintenance.com/acatalog/om-01-072_extended_info.html )

Then I've noted 20mm diameter. That's correct, right?
The Omeg Eco-line was mentioned here, but that's 17mm diameter it seems (>>)
Maybe the P20 series then?

Pot diameter doesn't matter. You can wire it up.

Center detent is in no way crucial.

Gustav
 
Gustav said:
Pot diameter doesn't matter. You can wire it up.

Center detent is in no way crucial.

Gustav
Thanks Gustav!

The bord is for one size of pots, right.
I understand the wiring-option, but are not the pots used for mounting the pcbs in the case
(and less soldering seems nice to )

And this is why I asked audiofreak about sizes as well. Pots and buttons needs to line up right.
So, if I have pcb-mount pushbuttons, I need pcb-mount pots as well, and they all need to be correct in physical dimensions. Or have I misunderstood?

Or, is case-mounted buttons and pots best? With wiring to/from board?
And then a dual unit is mounted with metal standoffs from bottom of the case?

I guess something like these are my buttons:http://no.farnell.com/alps/spun191400/switch-dpdt-0-1a-30vdc-latching/dp/1123855?ost=733118&rpsku=733118

And it needs to line up according to Chips frontpanel (attached)
 

Attachments

  • Chips Calrec PQ Panel Graphic.pdf
    116.7 KB · Views: 27
G-Sun said:
So, if I have pcb-mount pushbuttons, I need pcb-mount pots as well, and they all need to be correct in physical dimensions. Or have I misunderstood?

  as far as I know , this is correct. I have seen pix of at least one member who wired pots off board an used toggle switches instead of push buttons.

AML has the correct pots and push button switches for this project , the center detent is not necessary for the cut/boost.
 
audiophreak said:
AML has the correct pots and push button switches for this project , the center detent is not necessary for the cut/boost.
Thanks a lot audiophreak! As you know I'll use your frontpanel-layout. So with this info I don't have to trace down every physical dimension of pots and switches.  You just saved me of some two hours work and a lot of worry :)

One thing: Switch cap size inner dimensions? Is this a standard thing, or?
I remember asking Collin about this a few years ago, for this project and these switches, but he had no idea.

And btw, pots: 20mm not 16mm, right?
 
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