Best way to punch IEC panel mount connector in boxes.

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If you are doing the same cut out all the time a punch is the best choice. If you want the flexibility to use any kind of connector then a rotary tool is your best bet. I know I will be doing a lot of DB15 cutouts so I will get a punch for that eventually. Punches are too expensive to keep a bunch around.
 
another good option is a jig saw: it's what the sparkies use to install meters etc. in electric panels, any shape any size!!

 

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Are you aware of any punch that can cut 3mm panels? Most of them seem to be able to do 2.5mm or less.
 
any reasonable punch will piss through 3mm aluminium even steel just make sure you apply grease to the thread of the punch and to your elbow!!

I once had the luxury of using a hydraulic punch, cut through any plate steel like hot knife through butter, man my life was so easy then.... :'(
 
I've been cutting xlr holes on 3mm aluminium so I know exactly what you mean. Not great fun..

I'm just wondering why the suggest Mild Steel: 1.6 mm; Aluminium: 2 mm if they can cut 3mm aluminium.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/punch-die-combinations/0542302/
 
I just a recommendation, it will probably wear a bit more using thicker steel but  punch is made of tool steel so it's bloody tough!!

also when I use the punch on any substantial plate I get a piece of pipe to fit over the spanner to add leverage to the cutter makes life loads easier!!
 
If there's an option in specific enclosure, like rack 19", am cutting out it from the bottom.
 

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warpie said:
I'm just wondering why the suggest Mild Steel: 1.6 mm; Aluminium: 2 mm if they can cut 3mm aluminium.
The weak point is the threads; they can wear out quite rapidly. I have punched holes in thicker than recommended material by making a first partial sketch, then rotating the punch by 60° and making a second sketch, and then a final with another 60°. I also used a vise and suitable cauls to apply pressure instead of using the bolt.
Lubricating the threads is paramount.
 
Lubricating the threads is paramount.

Yes and don't use any old grease, use "copperslip" type stuff:

 

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i used a standard jigsaw - with a metal cutting blade (extra thin and lots of teeth per inch). Worked just fine. you just have to have a reasonably steady hand and put tape on the bottom of the jigsaw so as not to damage the panel...
 
For protecting the thread and using less power, a thrust bearing is great - e.g. http://www.banggood.com/Metal-Sealed-Shielded-3-Parts-Roll-Axial-Ball-Thrust-Bearing-51100-p-914553.html

Jakob E.
 
Hi all,

I have a Greenlee rectangular hand punch that's perfect for IEC sockets that's for sale.

The specs are here:

GREENLEE 731R-1.018" X .861", 25.9mm x 21.9 mm Rectangular Chassis Punch Set

The IEC I used with this punch is here:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Qualtek/703W-00-08/?qs=258DH3jk4VdJ6ZTfPlRGrg%3D%3D&gclid=Cj0KEQjwzZe8BRDguN3cmOr4_dgBEiQAijjVFt1AdHxWcXKzz7M3P_WfcMPL7NNi7QivLJotMn5zSlgaAgA18P8HAQ

It's a wee bit smaller than the standard IEC, so a little bit of filing will do the trick.

Yours for 50 USD plus shipping

 
gyraf said:
This one works well for integral-fuse IEC sockets: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/punch-die-combinations/0542302/

I've used these for a long time now...

Jakob E.

Bumping an oldie here.

Has anyone found relatively the same tool for cheaper?
 
I use a press drill to make holes around the perimeter, use a jigsag to make a rough cut, then file the edges to get to the final shape.  You can get pretty clean results - it all depends on how much time you want to spend.
 
Anthon said:
I use a press drill to make holes around the perimeter, use a jigsag to make a rough cut, then file the edges to get to the final shape.  You can get pretty clean results - it all depends on how much time you want to spend.
I've found using the Dremel with a fiber cutting disk gives a better result.
 
abbey road d enfer said:
I've found using the Dremel with a fiber cutting disk gives a better result.

Same here. Drilling a bunch of holes and filing works but is time consuming. I find a jigsaw blade too big for most tasks like an IEC cutout. You can use a jigsaw by rounding the corners inside the shape, then going back and squaring things up. It's hard to see the work under the saw which adds another challenge. For small square or rectangular shapes you just have to keep a cutoff wheel steady in one spot until the diameter of the wheel makes the cut dimension you want. It's much easier to make a straight clean cut.
 
I've gotten fair results with a dremel many times before. It never looks "factory made"  though. Nothing beats sending a .dxf file to the place that manufactures enclosures. The problem is it adds up every time you need another hole or cutout. That can usually be worked around by ordering a decent amount of the enclosure but for one off builds it costs a lot on top of the enclosure. This is why I prefer a nice set of punches or a CNC mill/router. Then a more professional look can be obtained, but of course punches and CNC equipment costs money too.

All the best,
 
I use a Foredom rotary tool which works better than a Dremel. It doesn’t give a factory made look. A rotary tool is good for prototyping and personal use equipment. If you are selling stuff it should look factory made. That’s a punch or a mill.
 
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