[TillM]

hi Manfred I use for my build a 250v lamp from tube-town.
So that you don't need a resistor.

[flatresponse]

Thanks for letting me know. I didn´t think there was a light for 240V so small ...

[TillM]

Thanks for letting me know. I didn´t think there was a light for 240V so small ...

Here you find everything you need for your PSU light   
https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/Bauteile-Verstaerker/Signalleuchten-LEDs:::118_60.html

[flatresponse]

Hi Till,
bulbs for the Fender light from tube town came in today - thanks for your advice. They work fine and it´s easy installment. And they´re just 3Watt, very economic.

OT:
Do you or does someone here on this fore know something about tools for pressing or hammering eyelets / solder lugs into glas fiber boards ? There is little to no information to be found on the internet - mayby just because it´s outdated ?
There´s a press at reichelt, but it´s 203Euro for the hand press alone, tools for special sizes additional 70Euro, which is a bit above my budget - since I only need it for a small batch of boards. Help appreciated.

Manfred.

[Banzai]

Staking tool + mallet?

[tony hunt]

+1.
Tubetown have a staking tool for around 12€ or so, Mallet not included.
I guess you could make yourself something similar with some stand-offs and threaded rod.

[flatresponse]

Thanks, Mike and Tony,

yes, I´m looking for a stacking tool as offered by tube town.

I´m a total newbie to working with eyelets and pertinax, that´s why I´m a bit nervous about the procedure.
But I´m burning for a selfmade project reconstructing a famous device from the 60ies.
Osterrath were so kind to send some samples of "Nietlötöse", with outer diameter of 2 and 2,5 mm.
I hoped to find tools to either hammer, or better, press these eyelets into place.
That tube town tool is for hammering ?
If I knew exactly, what Im gonna do, I could make a tool myself, sure, but at the moment I´m lost.

Manfred.

[Banzai]

If I knew exactly, what Im gonna do, I could make a tool myself, sure, but at the moment I´m lost.

http://guitarkitbuilder.com/basic-turret-board-construction/

[bancho]

I intend to use male 3-pin xlr with round chassis mount (to match binder connector)... Now I'm looking for the best one 
Currently I've found two: the old Amphenol and new Switchcraft (C series).
I'd like to get the best as it gets so I'm asking which is better... or is there any other I don't know about?
Any other opinion?
Thanks!

[Banzai]

I intend to use male 3-pin xlr with round chassis mount (to match binder connector)... Now I'm looking for the best one 
Currently I've found two: the old Amphenol and new Switchcraft (C series).
I'd like to get the best as it gets so I'm asking which is better... or is there any other I don't know about?
Any other opinion?
Thanks!

Switchcraft B3M looks great with Binder

[bancho]

Switchcraft B3M looks great with Binder

nice! does it cover the mounting holes?

[Banzai]

nice! does it cover the mounting holes?

Unfortunately no. It's very compact, won't cover existing holes.

Another idea is to make a custom XLR to Binder cable, and use a 3-pin Binder 691 for audio outs.

[Neutrino]

Hi all,


just want to share the way I managed to attach a standard 7-Pin XLR into the existing large mounting hole. See attached image for what the result looks like. You will need proper tools like a disc grinder and a drill stand.

• Find an old Tuchel connector. It doesn't matter how many pins. We are only going to use the metal casing. I got 8 of those for about 15,- EUR on eBay. They appear regularly there.
• Get a standard female Neutrik 7-Pin connector and grid off the rectangular flange, such that it looks circular from the front.
• Remove the plastic interior of the Tuchel connector and use a large drill/mill to extend the hole to the diameter of the Neutrik connector (24 mm if I remember correctly). You may need a few iterations to get both parts fit together nicely.
• Remove the locking mechanism from the Neutrik connector such that the jack doesn't snap in when inserted. If you have more patience than me, you may be able to make the locking mechanism wirk in this construction, but I decided, it's easier to let it go.
• Once both parts fit together nicely, use super glue to permanently glue them together.

DONE

[Neutrino]

Start with this

[Neutrino]

After grinding and drilling:

[stelin]

Finished a PSU for a M49-mic.
Just want to show you some pictures.
Made my own holes for the PCB; the pre made holes were a bit to long back.

[stelin]

The back side.

[stelin]

The backside of the PSU: Lamp and switch from TubeTown (for Fender amps).

[stelin]

Front side of the PSU: One Binder and one XLR. Using a Lorlin swich for five positions.
Very nice PSU-box! Thank you rainton!

[rainton]

Thanks Stelin,

great job!! Very clean!
You're right about the position of the mounting holes for the pcb - they were moved in V2 of the chassis
To about the same spot you chose for the pcb in your PSU 

Anyway thanks for posting your result!
Happy holidays!
Martin