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Family Hoof

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2004
Messages
406
Location
Brooklyn, New York, U.S.A.
http://www.protocase.com/

Anyone used them? I'd like to go ahead but have to get ahold of (and learn how to use!) some Autocad or Solidworks software first.

My dilema is that I'm making a very small run of 1RU cases for a project and I really want them to look flawless. I have yet to do any metal work by myself or invest in punches and specialty drills, but I can only imagine I'd really muck it up compared to a service like this or Front Panel Designer.

I got a case from Par-Metal (10-19082) and was quite pleased until I realized that 1) I cannot get any bolts to be flush with the case surface (already replaced the stock ones with flat head). This is going to mean scratch city when mounting in a rack with other units. I've seen commerical units which only have the bolts on the sides. This is very clever. Anyone know where to get something like this?, and 2) The rear panel has two folded over edges (upper and lower lips with screw holes) and I don't think Front Panel Express will be able to work with it for that reason, although I've yet to ask them directly. I was think of having FPE make a new rear panel which doesn't have this feature but then there would be empty screw holes on the top and bottom, and less structural support.

Comments, advice? I've already read the older posts I found. Thanks!
 
I just sent my Par-Metal front and rear panel for a 1U case to FPE. They said they received the panels today and didn't say anything about not being able to cut out the XLR and IEC holes on the rear panel.

We'll see if they write back/call Monday or Tuesday saying the looked things over and realized it won't work for the rear.

My IEC inlet is one of the Schurter types with a fuse drawer and just barely fits on the rear panel. I figure if they just go deep enough to cut through, then the welded bolts on the inside of the lips of the panel shouldn't be a problem.

The bottom panel I will drill myself when the front panel comes back so I know exactly where to drill the holes with the boards inserted to the front panel.

As for the assemply screws scratching other chassis. I would simply leave one mounting hole space between the Par-Metal chassis and other rack items. Serves as ventelation too, even if it's not totally neccessary. though that does eliminate space on top and bottom that cold be used for mounting other stuff. But for me, that's not an issue as i don't have that much to rack.


Daniel
 
Audio Junkie,

Sounds like you're doing exactly the same project as me! I'm also using the Schurter module that barely fits and plan to drill the holes for PCB mounting myself when the panels are done. This is encouraging news! Please keep me informed. :thumb:

[quote author="Family Hoof"]I've seen commerical units which only have the bolts on the sides. This is very clever. Anyone know where to get something like this?[/quote]
Just answered my own question. The Bud Industries valuline series fits this bill. Pretty expensive compared to parmetal, however.
 
Hey Daniel,
I had no problems with fpe working on my rear panel. They should be ok with it. Are you guys using Digikey number Q204-nd for IEC with fuse holder????
thanks
Gil
 
I got my IEC inlet from Allied. I'll have to hunt for the model number. It was a Schurter. I believe the model 4301.
Allied#: 509-3160

Daniel
 
Hmmm, just went through with the price approximation utility that protocase offers on their web site.. $300 US for a standard rack case, .06" steel, black matte finish, 20 cutouts, no silkscreen. A bit steep. I was hoping this would work out to $150-$200 with silkscreening et al. Too much for my budget, so, Im going to keep looking. Anyone else have a good source for custom metalwork and finishing?
 
Hey guys,
just got an email back from Par-metal and they said that you can order any of the boxes without the front panel and handles. The 10 series box at 8" of depth for only $30 bucks sounds really killer to me. You can then have you front panel made at frontpanelexpress for about $80 and you got yourself a nice little box for little over $100.. Looks like that is the way I'm going for my next GSSL 4000.

Just thought I should let yall know..
peace
Gil
 
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