?how to remove a screw rivet?

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JAY X

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 9, 2009
Messages
683
Hi!,

That is the question!
I have a metal box and i have to remove a screw rivet from one of the foldings. It is an M3 screw rivet.

Thanks for your advise!
Jay x.
 
JAY X said:
I have a metal box and i have to remove a screw rivet from one of the foldings. It is an M3 screw rivet.
To be clear, are we talking about a threaded insert? Generally used on aluminum sheet metal that is too thin to be directly tapped for threads to mount things. Drill a hole in the sheet metal, use a puller to pull the gripping splines of the steel insert into the hole to the point where the larger round flange bottoms out and prevents it from going all the way through. The inside has the threads of interest.

To remove, grab anything with a deep enough hole that loosely fits the flange side to buck up the sheet metal, if you have an assortment of sockets meant for nuts and bolts, one will likely fit close enough.

On something solid, preferably a blacksmiths anvil, build in this order: the socket, flange side of insert, screw in a sacrificial screw of the appropriate thread size, and give it a good wack with a BFH* to drive it back out the way it was pulled in.

BFH = Big Fuggin' Hammer

Gene

 
Drill a hole on a bit of timber or sheet material like MDF.

Place the panel on it and align the threaded insert over the hole.

Use Gene's BFH.
 
Hi!

attached is the picture...
 

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this not worky-worky Sahib..... the rivet thing compresses on the rear side when you mount them, they are in for good..... I would give it a go with a drill in a drill press, but beware that they start to rotate around after starting to drill. so best practice would be to hold the rear in a vice while doing so. and a drill press helps keeping your drill bit aligned.

- Michael

 
Although I have removed a similar one from a prototype last year, having checked this one  it seems it compresses on both sides. If that is the case then you are absolutely right that it should be drilled out.

 
sahib said:
Although I have removed a similar one from a prototype last year, having checked this one  it seems it compresses on both sides. If that is the case then you are absolutely right that it should be drilled out.

Aaah, THOSE things. Drilling works, a step drill works better, but consider using a single-flue countersink with lube, it doesn't dig in and bite like a drill bit, which will make the insert break free and spin. Countersink the flange side until the flange breaks free and becomes a free-spinning washer, and either punch the rest of it through, or pull it through from the other side.

Random internet jpg:

Gene



 

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