Desoldering tools (Dying Hakko 808)

A few years back I bought a Hakko 808.  It changed my life.  I've had to do the normal clean up and filter replacements, but now the motor appears to have gone south.  It still "works" but is really weak.  Replacement motors are $80.  I need a new tip too.  Since the 808 is discontinued, I'm on the fence about repairing it.  If the motors were like $20 I wouldn't hesitate to fix it, but considering the $100 in parts (motor and tip), I'd be nearly halfway to a brand new Hakko FR300.

If I were truly honest though, I'm a bit bummed I didn't get more life out of the 808.  It's not like I used it daily (I don't really run a commercial repair shop) and so we're looking at maybe 10s of hours of use on the motor.  Disappointing.

Soo...Anyone know of recommendations for cheaper motors or "better" tools?

Thanks!

Have you looked at the Chinese almost-identical units? Many parts fits directly in original.

Jakob E.

gyraf said:

Have you looked at the Chinese almost-identical units? Many parts fits directly in original.

Jakob E.

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I'm game...But uh...Got something to clue me in with?  Searching "Hakko 808 clone"  or "Hakko 808 equivalent" isn't exactly producing good results.

The FR300 is much nicer than the 808. It has a power switch, an easy to access temperature control, better balance, and it's pretty easy to clean. I've only used an 808 a few times, but I have an FR300 and like it a lot. Highly recommended.

Take it apart. "Weak motor" could be dry oil in bearings, something rubbing, a lump of dog-fur in the fan impeller or ducts.... many things that go wrong can be fixed if you look.

TheJames said:

  It still "works" but is really weak.  Replacement motors are $80. 

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When you say "weak", do you mean it sounds wrong, or it sounds OK, but has little suction?

If it is just a suction problem, it might simply need one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-A1231-Valve-Plate-Desolder/dp/B009SDVJMS/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009SDVJMS&pd_rd_r=KEB26H5EKKVNB2F18QG1&pd_rd_w=TRNoI&pd_rd_wg=yYDsI&psc=1&refRID=KEB26H5EKKVNB2F18QG1

If it is anything like my first "SolderAid", those flap valves are made of urethane(?) sheet, and they will turn yellow and crumble apart over time.

That SolderAid didn't work well when I first got it, used, so I cut a new valve out of an inner tube, worked OK for a couple years. Then I went a more proper way, bought some 1/16" orange silicone gasket material, and that is still in there. Probably still works, but I now use a Hakko 707 in better shape, other than a well-worn seized-on tip, that has never been apart. That will be problem at some point, with the solution probably involving a damn lathe.

Like PRR says, cover off, un-mount pump, disassemble pump head, assess. I'll bet a cookie that the motor is just fine, and the flapper valve falls apart in your hand. Or the diaphragm has a leak, second item in that link.

Gene

The motor just doesn't run like it used to.

I've cleaned the pump mechanism, checked the valve material, replaced the filter, cleaned out the heater element, but the motor just doesn't run as fast as it used to.

Not sure what I can do.  Replace the caps across the motor?  Take the motor out and disassemble the motor?  Maybe find/repair some issue with a winding on the motor?

The pump mechanism is so glued to the motor shaft with some sort of loc-tite that I can't break it free.  Perhaps with some solvent?

I dunno.  I'm adverse to spending $100 on the old tool.

TheJames said:

...but the motor just doesn't run as fast as it used to.Not sure what I can do.  Replace the caps across the motor?  Take the motor out and disassemble the motor?  Maybe find/repair some issue with a winding on the motor?

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Guess I owe you a cookie.

Brush motor or squirrel cage? Small disc caps for quenching brush noise, or larger for a run winding? Line voltage or lower?

Does the shaft turn freely?

The pump mechanism is so glued to the motor shaft with some sort of loc-tite that I can't break it free.  Perhaps with some solvent?

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Or heat, if both parts are metal. If you are sure it is glued on, you may be able to soften any loctite or adhesive, so that it slides off easier. Although,usually these things are pressed together, an interference fit that with a splined shaft, with the hole slightly smaller than the spline OD.

I dunno.  I'm adverse to spending $100 on the old tool.

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I wouldn't.

If you can't fix it, find another identical one on ebay that has a good motor, make one from two, and have a bunch of spare parts.

Gene

I broke down and picked up a new Hakko FR300.  It's a superior tool to the 808 which I liked.

If anyone would like my old 808, let me know.

I'll take it if the price is reasonable. Pm me.