Phrazemaster


Regarding using a lamp together with the API meter I would indeed try to find a solution with a custom mounted fuse type lamp.
The lamp would need to have some kind of cover from above though, since the chassis has no lid - or it will lighten up the entire rack  ;D
Hey Martin - did you ever solve this?

Thx

Mike
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Potato Cakes

Thank-you Paul. It's strange they have two nearly identical - and also fail to put the dimensional differences on their site...

Edit: my real concern is I don’t know the quality of the hamfest caps. I trust in the CE Mallory name more than off-label generics...although the CE’s are only rated to 65C and the hamfest to 105C...

During the quite literally painful troubleshooting process, those particular caps got abused by my soldering iron during the multiple times of de- and re-soldering. If they were of poor quality I'm certain I would have had failures. Go with what you know and are comfortable with, but as for the Hayseed capacitors I think they make a fine product.

Thanks!

Paul

Phrazemaster

During the quite literally painful troubleshooting process, those particular caps got abused by my soldering iron during the multiple times of de- and re-soldering. If they were of poor quality I'm certain I would have had failures. Go with what you know and are comfortable with, but as for the Hayseed capacitors I think they make a fine product.

Thanks!

Paul
Thanks for your thoughts Paul.

I’ve never rated a component’s quality by how well it stood up to a soldering iron. But I appreciate it.

I’m still collecting the big money bits, like I just ordered the Sowter.

Thx!

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Phrazemaster

I just scored a wonderful Russian switch for the meter switch - as an alternative to that oak industries switch. I've bought these before - really nice action and built like a tank.

I'm not entirely sure the shaft is long enough so I have to double check that when I get home (oops). But anyways.

There's still a few left if you think it would work.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ceramic-Rotary-Switch-3-pole-3-positions-Make-Before-Break-NOS-Lot-of-1/263435091599?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
« Last Edit: August 26, 2019, 03:40:39 PM by Phrazemaster »
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Phrazemaster

After weeks and weeks of searching I found an acceptable jewel for the front panel, plus lamp holder.

There's one left on the bay right now:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/151126076598

Good luck!

Mike
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BramK

After weeks and weeks of searching I found an acceptable jewel for the front panel, plus lamp holder.

There's one left on the bay right now:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/151126076598

Good luck!

Mike

Thanks Mike, do you know which is the proper bulb specs/dimensions for this lamp holder?

In other news, Sowter replaced the transformer for the numetal can quickly and with no questions asked. Great customer service.

In other other news, if anyone is still sourcing parts, I have an extra UTC A18 available.

cheers

Phrazemaster

Thanks Mike, do you know which is the proper bulb specs/dimensions for this lamp holder?
Hey Bram,

Bulb is #51 according to schematic; Martin used a #47 I believe, which is lower power.

I don’t know lamp holder dimensions but the jewel is 5/16” as opposed to  the standard .5” guitar amp jewels.

I have an extra jewel and lamp holder coming so PM me if you need one.

Glad Sowter sorted you out!

Best,

Mike
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Phrazemaster

I really want to break the meter switch out of the box and put it on the front panel where the output vernier is. I know Martin used a push/pull pot, but this doesn't add full functionality of the meter switch, which is 3P3T shorting.

I spoke with Elma switches this morning. They can make a custom hollow shaft, 4-pole, 3 position shorting switch with mounting hardware for a pot behind. It's not a cheap switch; right now ballpark is $40 - $50/switch. it will probably take 6-8 weeks for them to produce as well.

I was thinking to use an 1/8" shaft through the switch, which Elma also sells as an add-on, and then adding a retaining clip behind it and making the end of the shaft like a screwdriver slot to interface with a pot that is 1/4" diameter shaft. Kind of like what the Grayhill Add a Pot series does. Can't use the gray hills though because they are stupid expensive - over $250/pop, have to be dual deck to get enough poles, plus they are too big for this project. The Elma's are smaller diameter, have just one wafer, and would fit.

Also, the front panel hole would need to be widened from 8.2mm to 10.2 mm. Not a big change, but thought I would mention it.

I have to specify the length of the shaft, so I thought 0.5" would be a good size.

I have to order min of 20 pieces, and I am seriously thinking of doing it.

So I wanted to know if any of you have any interest in getting one of these as a group buy?

I myself would take 4 of them.

Please let me know - PM is fine. I'll post back here about it when I have more definite info. I hope it's ok to post here; this is a mod of the original project after all, and I didn't think it was appropriate to put in the black market yet. This is just a feeler.

Attached is a representative pic of the 01-switch, although this one shown is not customized.

Thx,

Mike

Note: Don Audio has a switch similar to this, but it's 2 pole 6 position. The one I'm going to order is 4 pole 3 position. The Don Audio switch wouldn't work sadly.

Edit: for clarity.
Edit 2: changed out picture to be more representative - will look like this.
« Last Edit: September 06, 2019, 07:34:19 PM by Phrazemaster »
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Phrazemaster

Also, if this all works out as planned, I'm going to use the fender concentric knob set attached in the pic here. But I'll use the correct UA 176 knob for the top of the pair.

What is unknown is how large the bottom half is - I've ordered a couple. So if the bottom piece is too large then I'll have to use something else or (gasp!) actually DIY something.  ;D

Mike
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Phrazemaster

I've attached a picture of how I had to make the connection for C9 A and B. This is the Hayseed capacitor. I seems to be too big to fit next to C1 and 2 like on the layout illustration. It should work but I would have preferred something cleaner looking. On that note, is there a reason to have to use the can capacitor? For this one, is there a reason I couldn't use two separate electrolytics?

Paul
Hi everyone, I have the same question Paul posed here - how are we to mount C9a-b? It isn't clear to me what the right way to go is. Kudos to Paul for being innovative...but is this how to do it?

On some photos of original units it looks like one has the large can cap like the Hayseed, and other units seem to use a pair of electrolytics. I have the large Hayseed cap.

Thanks,

Mike

Thanks,

Mike
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Phrazemaster

This thread is starting to sound like an echo chamber...isn't anyone else building or gathering parts?

I was also wondering what folks are using for C3 and C4. In Martin's pix it looks like he used tall electrolytic-looking caps, but there is no side shot so I can't tell. The only film caps I can find that might be appropriate are some orange drops (which I've seen used on originals). But they don't match what Martin used.

So what did you guys who already built use for C3 and C4?

Thanks,

Mike
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moltenwok

Hi mate, I ended up folding 2 tags over, and putting wire 'hooks' thru the other rivets and into the holes in the cap legs to add strength

Phrazemaster

Hi mate, I ended up folding 2 tags over, and putting wire 'hooks' thru the other rivets and into the holes in the cap legs to add strength
Many thanks Moltenwok. I appreciate it. Great to see photos of your build!

Best,

Mike
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