BramK

Yeah,
I have notice now.....So should be on its way by next week.
Will post a link I found for the proper 300 ohm wire wound potentiometers for the VERNEIR fine
adjustments. I can confirm owning a original that test are wire wound precision.
John

Any chance we could see that link?  :)


Yes,
Sorry for delay! This place looks great!  They have min orders..so maybe a group buy for the 300 ohm precision....
They also have the MR series for maybe main input/output.....They look very high quality like the old original series.....
Lots to look through.....

State Electronics in Ney Jersey  :http://www.potentiometers.com/WW24.cfm

core13

5w wirewound is needed here?
do you think 500r with 750R in serie with classic 2W AB pot is not enough?

The wire wounds give a nice precision feel. Instead of a slipping all over the place.
Not  critical but If you want like the original that is what they are.

You should be fine.
John

BramK

Thanks jslstudio - re: 300ohm wire wound pots. At this point, I'm leaning more towards just doing the 500r+750 for the sake of ease.  - I"ll keep an eye out  if a group buy comes together though.

---------------------

In the process of finalizing my Mouser cart - I just realized the version of the BOM I have doesn't have the pots for 'PLATE BAL' 'CATHODE BAL' and 'GR ZERO' listed.  Difficult to make out on the schematic that's floating around online.  Anyone have the values for these?

core13


In the process of finalizing my Mouser cart - I just realized the version of the BOM I have doesn't have the pots for 'PLATE BAL' 'CATHODE BAL' and 'GR ZERO' listed.  Difficult to make out on the schematic that's floating around online.  Anyone have the values for these?

plate bal is 1K
cathode bal is 100R
gr zero is 1K
they are all linear.

interested in 4X wirewound jslstudio you convinced me.
will go with 500R and replace later with these one, since all the parts I used are original.

BramK

Just saw that jsls had answered that earlier in the thread. Thanks for info core13!

edit:

The pots that rainton used in one of the first pages of this thread are:

Cathode Bal: RV4LAYSA101A  (POT 100 OHM 2W CARBON LINEAR)
Plate Bal, GR Zero: RV4NAYSD102A (POT 1K OHM 2W CARBON LINEAR)
« Last Edit: January 11, 2019, 03:48:33 PM by BramK »

TubeMonkey

FYI regarding use of the vernier pot.... on our vintage units I try to keep the vernier wide open... It seems dialing the vernier back gives a bit of a roll-off on the high end. Nothing drastic, but it is noticeable. Maybe due to mismatching the impedance?  Anyway just a note on practicality.    ....or you may want to use that roll off to your advantage.

Hmmm...Mine doesn't seem to do that at all......But I just roll the output one back a bit...Input I usually leave full on.

Also note! If you adjust the RELEASE pot at the VU meter moves at all along with it. You have a going bad or BAD
6BC8 tube!!!
The Vu meter should not move when adjusting the release!
As David Kulka from studio electronics has said:
This the is very important for function and stability of unit! So It needs to be 90% or better functioning tube!
John

BramK

The UA176 chassis arrived today - beautiful work, the front panel is crisp! Thank you @rainton

Can you provide us with an ETA on the wiring layout / build guide?


How long did it take to arrive.?
Been two weeks when I received a notice coming from warehouse..?
Thank,s
John

BramK

DHL notification email on Jan 2nd . I’m in the US.

Potato Cakes

Still waiting to receive a shipment notification. I do not believe I was in the group that was delayed.

Thanks!

Paul

TubeMonkey

received mine in Nashville on January 15th. Incredible work! Thanks rainton!

EB

TubeMonkey

Anybody have a spare API 361 meter and a spare UTC O-1 with shield? looking to buy :)

Potato Cakes

Anybody have a spare API 361 meter and a spare UTC O-1 with shield? looking to buy :)

I may have an extra O-1 but not any shields I don't think.


I may have a extra shield..The real UTC marked one.....I think I bought two...
Let me check.
John

Received my kit. Looks great came out great.But, The one thing that I think needs to be addressed is the PSU Turret board.
It barely fits the original 10ohm and 30 ohm Koolohm resistors.
And In my opinion to thin.
These Boards get very hot!!! I ave a original....It twice the thickness almost then the kit one.  And the turrets should be large
on the PSU board.

The good thing is this board is easy to make. But It is to small and thin. Just a Heads up...It will work.
But should be thicker and more spaced out for the original Koolohms.

Git looks great though!!! Nice work......
John

Potato Cakes

Just got the pre-shipment notification from Don Audio. Looking forward to starting on these. I guess I should start building those ladder attenuators I mentioned earlier. I have a some two deck Elmas that I'm going to use to make them, and I made some notes for the resistors needed, but those notes got lost in shuffling and cleaning during some renovations over the last couple of months. So unless someone here has already made some and would like to share that information, I may have to go back to the drawing board...

I still lack output transformers and some potentiometers for internal calibrating.

Thanks!

Paul

Received my kit. Looks great came out great.But, The one thing that I think needs to be addressed is the PSU Turret board.
It barely fits the original 10ohm and 30 ohm Koolohm resistors.
And In my opinion to thin.
These Boards get very hot!!! I ave a original....It twice the thickness almost then the kit one.  And the turrets should be large
on the PSU board.

The good thing is this board is easy to make. But It is to small and thin. Just a Heads up...It will work.
But should be thicker and more spaced out for the original Koolohms.

Git looks great though!!! Nice work......
John

argh that doesn't sound too promising.  it would be a bummer to build this and have bend boards down the line.... maybe martin can comment? id rather pay for some new boards i think


 

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