Hey guys,

I´m in the process of mounting the bigger components on the back of the unit -see attached picture.

I encountered a problem with the mounting clamp of C8 - it´s protruding into the spaced need for V4.

@rainton: Could you post a link to the mounting clamps you used on the build?

Thanks!


kosi

you need a mounting plate inside
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/mounting-plate-metal-1-can-capacitor

you can also use one for the other cap with 4 "slits"

you need a mounting plate inside
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/mounting-plate-metal-1-can-capacitor

you can also use one for the other cap with 4 "slits"

I have an original...These holes are to close together.....On Raintons kit.
The 20uf x 4 Hole also should be bigger diameter closer to the open size of the GZ34 tube opening.
If you want it like the original you should also be using a flat mounting plate.
John

Exact mounting hardware for PCB boards is:

Slotted metal #4-40 screw 1-1/8"  long exact   (mounting through back of chassis )
With a inner round locking washer inside unit.

Then:  3/4" long #4-40  non threaded aluminum spacer / flat round #4-40 round washer

Face of of PCB is:   #4-40 round inner tooth locking washer and a #4-40  nut with small 3/16"
drive size.

John

« Last Edit: March 29, 2019, 08:54:07 PM by jslstudio »

you need a mounting plate inside
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/mounting-plate-metal-1-can-capacitor

you can also use one for the other cap with 4 "slits"

Thank you Kosi, I ordered those.

Hey guys,

I´m having problems sourcing some of the parts needed for the build.

Maybe some of you have some suggestions where I can get these:

C3 + C4 -> BOM calls for Radial Caps (film I guess) 0.047 @630V  - I found many WIMAs and similar, but in the pics they look more like electrolytic caps. What kind of type and brand did you guys use?

C5 & C10 -> They are rated the same but seem to be different sized. What did you guys use on those?

C6+C7 -> I researched the usual shops and eBay, but didn´t find these Gudemans that are specced. Might go with Mundorf Oil Caps @450V - what you guys think?

R1+R30 -> I have some 500r PECs on the shelf, so might use these with the 750r resistor in parallel. But just out of curiousness - where could I get 300r Pots?

Lamp Holder (8mm Cut Out) -> Did you guys find a lamp holder with the proper look? I even checked the curiosity cabinet of nebraskasurplussales with their large variety of rare miniature lamp holders but couldn´t find similar looking parts.

Thanks my friends!

I will go in to more detail when I can..I have an original 175b so I can match 100%
what is on this compressor. The exact BUSS fuse holder and cap is on eBay right now.
I just bought two. This is exactly what is on the UA.
Here is proper fuse holder......So cool most of these parts still available! :-)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-NOS-Buss-Panel-Mount-Fuse-Holder-250V-15A-For-3AG-1-4-x-1-1-4/153399009757?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The Lamps are on eBay two right now DRAKE jewel lamps. The Universal audio I have seen including mine have been round smooth. But the jewel shape I have seen on a few.
You have to make sure the small with twist socket.

You should be able to find all of the original parts.
John
« Last Edit: March 25, 2019, 05:32:09 PM by jslstudio »

Potato Cakes

Did I read correctly that Cinemag was contacted about making the output transformer? Is there been any further news to this? Are there any other transformer companies that could properly wind this strange animal?

Thanks!

Paul

Have you checked with Sowter? Any reason you don't want to use their recreation?

Did I read correctly that Cinemag was contacted about making the output transformer? Is there been any further news to this? Are there any other transformer companies that could properly wind this strange animal?

Thanks!

Paul

Potato Cakes

Have you checked with Sowter? Any reason you don't want to use their recreation?

Lead time and cost. Also it is my understanding that the winding isn't the same as the original. Not saying that it won't sound good, but if I've taken the time to acquire the other transformers used in the original 176 then I'd like to see if I could get an output transformer that more closely matches the early revision units. It's just a preference and not a requirement.

Thanks!

Paul


I was very fortunate to get an original Reichenbach 176 output Transformer.
When he was still alive. He did a batch off of a broken 176 original output........
I contacted cinemag and gave him the number off my transformer ..But sadly could not find the documentation.
I did send him the output of the schematic with the percentage of windings etc.......
Anyway If I hear anything will let you know.....
Its definitely smaller then that sowter...:-)
John

Potato Cakes

I was very fortunate to get an original Reichenbach 176 output Transformer.
When he was still alive. He did a batch off of a broken 176 original output........
I contacted cinemag and gave him the number off my transformer ..But sadly could not find the documentation.
I did send him the output of the schematic with the percentage of windings etc.......
Anyway If I hear anything will let you know.....
Its definitely smaller then that sowter...:-)
John

Sounds good. I'm going pretty slow building my pair so I'm not in a rush. If they do respond please let us know.

Thanks!

Paul

Cool,
Yeah I am going slow also....getting as much original as possible!
Original tube sockets are Cinch brown. And GZ 34 socket is amphenol black vintage with double loop
holes.
John

From what I gathered the sowter is supposed to be a clone of the original, where are you finding that it isn't? What is different about the winding?

Lead time and cost. Also it is my understanding that the winding isn't the same as the original. Not saying that it won't sound good, but if I've taken the time to acquire the other transformers used in the original 176 then I'd like to see if I could get an output transformer that more closely matches the early revision units. It's just a preference and not a requirement.

Thanks!

Paul

Nothing is ever going to be exact..Unless they cloned an original.
Core material? Gauge of wire? Scattered or perfect winding? It all affects the sound....
The original outputs are very small. Compared to the very large sowter. I would be curious
as to what the size of the sowter inside the mu metal case is.
John

Potato Cakes

From what I gathered the sowter is supposed to be a clone of the original, where are you finding that it isn't? What is different about the winding?

Here:

https://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=71002.msg904966#msg904966

Was it verified that the original had a 7:1 ratio and not a 9:1? I read through that thread and didn't see a conclusion. Can't beat that price though, would have gone that route had I not already bought the Sowters.

Here:

https://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=71002.msg904966#msg904966

Here is the original 1964 silver blue metallic paint.
Really gives the unit the right vintage vibe! Very cool color. It looks gray in pics. But In light you see the
blue!
Pics against my real unit. Then outside light picture in next post.

All screws are #4-40 pan head small drive nuts. #6-32 with small drive nuts. Haven't measured the Transformer bolts yet. Next size up and the largest.
All screws are single slotted pan heads.
John
« Last Edit: March 29, 2019, 09:47:16 PM by jslstudio »

Here is the real color in the light. Gray primer then silver blue metallic.
After I ream the large 20uf x 4 Hole. Then knock out side studs and door studs for #4-40
screw and nuts. Then paint the chassis.
John
« Last Edit: March 30, 2019, 08:07:17 PM by jslstudio »

Here is a picture of the 20uf x 4 450V - Cut out proper size to the original. It should clear all ground lugs.
John
« Last Edit: March 30, 2019, 08:07:31 PM by jslstudio »


 

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