Source for Latching DPDT Pushbutton

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EAO
They are
Not cheep
Maybe used can be had cheep.
I have a pile of momentary ones...with new lens/ button is purchased separately from switch body
 
I use NKK LB series. They come in both round and square cap and mount with a round hole.
 
80hinhiding said:
Thanks for the suggestion.  Looks like they're out of my price range.

I have some relatively inexpensive DPDT latching switches from ALPS, but they present a couple challenges.  I bought panel mount and the actuator sticks out of the hole in the chassis, to the point where placing a cap on it you can still see the springs.

If I could find a cap bigger than the opening in the chassis, and find some way of reducing the space between the cap and the chassis panel, I could use those switches.  Not sure how to do it at this point.

Otherwise I guess I have to find an alternative switch.

Adam

ALPS SPUJ190900 (miniature latching right angle push button switch)
Compatible with E-Switch 1S (square) caps or any round caps that accept a 2.8 mm W x 2.5 mm H actuator.
 
80hinhiding said:
That looks like the switches I have except I have solder lugs.  What size are the caps? I could certainly use 10 or so.

I am getting Sifam PB 01/51/000 (dimensions attached).
I've found the hole needs to be fairly big to accommodate the actuator.. so I've been trying to think of ways to cover it.  I guess as longs as the cap is 16mm or more it could conceal where it enters the chassis panel.
Not sure what you mean. The cap is bigger than the actuator so it covers it already.
I am trying to decide on control knobs too. The Davies 1900-H  clones look pretty cool, but I'm not sure on colors to go with or if 60 or so of the same model control knobs will look funny/too make shift. I have put a lot of time into the chassis (my third version) and hope the whole finish looks pro.  Of course budget is a concern. Maybe if I got mostly all the same color 1900h knobs and painted the tops depending on their function.. I don't know.

Thanks again.
Adam

I really like the1900-H clones. I get mine from Thonk in the UK. They go really nicely with their Alpha right angle and vertical pots. They also do some push on types for use with D-shape pot shafts. They are a godsend as you don't have to try to align the dot on the knob before you tighten a grub screw.

Cheers

Ian
 
This is more machine shop.  For making a small square hole I drill a round hole the size of the square.  Or the short side of a rectangle. Then scribe the dimensions of the square or rectangle. Then remove the rest of the material with a small square file.
 
80hinhiding said:
That looks like the switches I have except I have solder lugs.  What size are the caps? I could certainly use 10 or so.

I've found the hole needs to be fairly big to accommodate the actuactor.. so I've been trying to think of ways to cover it.  I guess as longs as the cap is 16mm or more it could conceal where it enters the chassis panel.

when viewed from the front side, ALPS SPUJ190900, E-Switch PBH2UEENAGX, C&K PHA2UEE and their Chinese clones all have the same 2.8 mm width x 2.5 mm height rectangular actuator, and they don't have solder lugs.

the bigger cousin (ALPS SPUN190900 and similar clones) has a 3.3 mm width x 3.3 mm height square actuator.

I've found the hole needs to be fairly big to accommodate the actuator.. so I've been trying to think of ways to cover it.  I guess as longs as the cap is 16mm or more it could conceal where it enters the chassis panel.

you only need to cut a hole which is slightly bigger than the push cap.

here's an example for the E-switch 1S square shape push cap (5 mm x 5 mm) I mentioned in my previous post.
 

Attachments

  • push cap holes.jpg
    push cap holes.jpg
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80hinhiding said:
The switches I have at present are these: http://www.alps.com/prod/info/E/HTML/Switch/Push/SPPJ2/SPPJ2_list.html

The version with solder lugs and panel mount.  I measured the square at the top and it's 3mmx3mm.  I couldn't get the datasheet or cad to open to say for sure.  The screw sizes are tiny, and so I may drill those a bit bigger.

actuator size is 3.3mm x 3.3mm
and the type of screw is ANSI Metric M2 machine screw.

I've been considering putting something between the panel and the mounting ear of the switch to keep the actuactor from sticking out too far.

use M2 machine screw with 8 or 10 mm length. M2.5 spacer with 3mm length sandwiched between the front panel and the switch mounting bracket.

Paul, I have bought a couple files recently, mainly to adjust 7/8" holes to make them 15/16".  I had read about using a small file for making square holes by hand, and when I checked the local stores I couldn't see anything that looked like it would work.  It's good to know that's an option though, with the right tool.

a better option is to draw your panel design with a vector graphics program like Inkscape (it's free) and pay a laser cutting service to cut it. laser cutting is accurate, done within seconds and very affordable.
 
McMaster-Carr has everything. Even if it isn't practical to buy from them it's a good resource to know what's available.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#hand-files/=19oe0kf

A vector graphics program is useles if you don't know how to use it.
 
80hinhiding said:
Thanks for your help.  I'll do a search for those screws and spacers.

M2 machine screw, plenty on eBay.
M2 3 mm nylon spacer or hex nut, also plenty on eBay.

I'd probably change the switch first, if there was one that is round and is in the same price range.

change the switch caps.
for 3.3mm x 3.3mm actuator.

C&K G003-R (red) G003-A (black) G003-G (gray), round shape.
E-Switch TAMRED (red) TAMBLK (black) TAMWHT (white) TAMGRY (gray), bullet shape.
 
Use a flat file to make a round hole square.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/NsoAAOSwiQ9ZWHeP/s-l300.jpg
http://www.leevalley.com/US/images/item/woodworking/sharpening/62w1601g1b.jpg

Start with one somewhat smaller than the diameter so it will fit. Work the corners. As you get close to square, it would be good to have a wider file just a fraction smaller than the goal.
 
The reason I like a square file is that I find it easier to make the corners right angles with a square file. A flat file is better for removing more material and making the planes. I use both. For a small square hole if I had to choose I'd take a square file.
 
I use toggle switches as monitor mute switches. I needed four pole switches and didn't want to use relays.
 
80hinhiding said:
What a goings on for a pushbutton. haha

Adam

At Neve, for custom monitor panels,  we used to mount them on a steel plate that was fitted to the front panel on stand offs.

Cheers

Ian
 
Make sure you clamp the two pieces together and don't remove the clamps until all the holes are the way you want them...
 
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