One-Bottle Preamp

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Pief said:
I wanted to install a variable attenuation at the end of the cirquit instead of at the input as Dave had  drawn it up.
But i can,t figure out what the best variant would be. Any suggestions? H-Pad, T-pad?  would this work with an unbalanced output?

Nice build.

It is a fact that you will need the input pad.  You will not need the output pad unless you only desire a distortion box.    Output pad here typically a 'T', with several available as continuous rotary.
 
Thanks Doug, Ian,

I will attenuate at the input. I understand what you mean.
My thoughprocess was that it would allow to push the tube a little harder for some gritty signal on Vocals and acoustics.
But i guess this would render the preamp useless on percussion

Grtz,

Pief
 
awhile back I drew up a PCB for this, but never had it produced. it took me less time to build it on terminal strip than it did to design the PCB-let alone populate. seriously, this circuit is dead simple, it doesnt seem worth the hassle of PCB design/production times.
 
awhile back I drew up a PCB for this, but never had it produced. it took me less time to build it on terminal strip than it did to design the PCB-let alone populate. seriously, this circuit is dead simple, it doesnt seem worth the hassle of PCB design/production times.
Would you be willing to share a layout? I am a novice when it comes to tubes. Or perhaps put your PCB design up on Oshpark for those of us who may want to go in that direction? Just wondering, Thanks!
 
Would you be willing to share a layout? I am a novice when it comes to tubes. Or perhaps put your PCB design up on Oshpark for those of us who may want to go in that direction? Just wondering, Thanks!
sure, Im on my work computer right now- so i only have access to the layout. Not sure if I still have the gerbers for the PCB, but I take a look later tonight when im home.

Regardless, here is the tagboard layout I came up with. The 100k Resistor and 22pF cap in the schematic was replaced by a 1M resistor on my layout, because I built mine without an input transformer(im using mine as a DI) other than that, it is 1:1, but you might want to double check/compare it to the schematic just in case. it has been many years since i built this!
Edit: the output cap is mislabeld as 22uF(should be 3.3) in my diagram, but the connection/placement seems to be correct
 
I have a PCB I can’t remember who made it. I think It was called the MILA-1 and he made two channels. I’ll take a look when I get home.

But there’s also a tag board layout drawing. I have a pdf at home too.
 
Hi grid_stopper, any chance of uploading "And the PSU" file again.
When I try to open the link I get the following response.

This XML file does not appear to have any style information associated with it. The document tree is shown below.
<Error>
<Code>AccessDenied</Code>
<RequestId>tx0000000000001926545a4-0063861529-34c5ae65-nyc3b</RequestId>
<HostId>34c5ae65-nyc3b-nyc-zg02</HostId>
</Error>

Thanks
 
https://gearspace.com/board/geekzone/184814-build-thread-nyd-one-bottle-w-di.htmlhere is one document. Basically you just need a linear supply with good filtering. I would also use a CLCLC rather than the recommended CRC filter. This means replacing the resistor between the caps with a choke of at least 1H.
If you are inexperienced with proper AC heater technique, go for DC. A linear DC supply for the filaments is practical for up to a few channels, then the current requirements make an SMPS (with the hiccup type regulation, rated for at least twice the current) more practical due to the need for large caps and transformer. DC must be well filtered and referenced to ground to be quieter than AC. Can be worse if misapplied.
Keep in mind I'm no expert. This is what I've gleaned from the forum and internet research.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top