Amek BC2 BCII Buss Assignment Routing

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trodden

Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
9
Hello.

In the process of refurbishing an AMEK BC2.  I want to add more channels for mix down, so I purchased a handful of BC 1118/4's.  One of them I popped into frame and good to go.  However, the other three have a different buss routing option.  While my the modules that came with my console and the one stereo input module that works has buss assignment buttons  "In" (for the panning pot), "1-2", "3-4", and "ST" and "Mute".  While these other three stereo input modules have "1", "2", "3", "4", and "Mute".  There is no "ST" button to route the input to the stereo buss.  While I could just route that to sub groups 1-4, I'm also using those already for mix down inputs. 

Since these consoles were pretty much made to order, seems that these modules could easily be configured and then reconfigured depending on needs.  I can't seem to find any type of jumper or such that differs between the stereo module  with the "ST" buss option and the ones without. 

Please help! 

Thank you.
Brandon 

 

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Uh - you should ALWAYS insist on getting full documentation on all things BC2, the system is a nightmare of not-intercompatible modifications.

The good people at http://forum.analogconsole.com are very helpful - but don't expect miracles unless you run into someone that had the exact same system made..

(yes, I have a BC2 of my own, plus ~25 different spare modules, but still not a full 12-2-2 frame working)

Jakob E.
 
I'd love to have the full documentation.  The seller did not have it... so...  I don't either!

For some reason I'm having issues with registering at the analog console forum.  Maybe they're not taking new people on?  The registration won't accept either of my two gmail addresses.

I'm sorry to hear about you having issues as well.  Mine came to me working, 8-4-2.. Just hoping to add some stereo inputs for some more mix down inputs for a total of 16.  4 stereo, 4 mic/line, and four buss with line inputs.
 
Found some SEVERELY OVERLOOKED INFO on the BACKSIDE of the "weird" modules.  Thinking if I pull the brown wires to make it match the working one, maybe will be in business? 
 

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Well, pulled the brown wires and in the process noticed that the mod to these also involved breaking some traces as well by scratching/scraping the trace to break the circuit.

Tried going around the broken traces with some fine wire (red wire in photo). Got all of them worked out, inserted the channel strip into the console and could faintly hear my tones I was sending and the buss selector switches were now working as I needed. Pulled out the module, did some more inspecting to see what I missed and found two more VERY FINE traces that had been broken for the mod as well. Couldn't find a way to tie those paths back together unfortunately. I'm guessing that may be where the failure is currently happening. I tried getting some fine wire and solder in there but ended up ****ing up the board even more. Game Over. I'm done. It was a learning experience though. Cost me a channel strip/$100.

The seller I got these four channel strips from has found two more with the "ST" stereo buss selector like the one I received from him that works for me. I'm hoping I can trade out the remaining two for those two.
 

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You should be able to re-attach broken connection in all cases - look at the attached BC1118/1119 generalized schematic for expected signal flow.

If you PM me your email address, I'll send you all the 12MB I've found so far. Has quite a bit of info on these modules.

Jakob E.
 

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gyraf said:
You should be able to re-attach broken connection in all cases - look at the attached BC1118/1119 generalized schematic for expected signal flow.

If you PM me your email address, I'll send you all the 12MB I've found so far. Has quite a bit of info on these modules.

Jakob E.

Jakob! You're wonderful! Thank you.  Sending a PM.

-Brandon
 
> VERY FINE traces that had been broken for the mod as well. Couldn't find a way to tie those paths back

Keep following them. They surely go to some part/pad big enough to solder to. Even if it means a foot or two of wire, it isn't costly.
 

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