D-47 Tube Mic Kit DIY Solution

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rockinrob86 said:
If I built an EF47 kit, with the power supply, would I be able to use that power supply with the EF version of this?  I am wondering about the pattern switching, since this has it on the microphone

yes it will work just fine with this psu , all you have to do is to remove power to the relay and bypass the pattern switch or simply cut the WIRE  ;D,  you will need to adjust the string resistor since you draw about 6ma less current on the B+ rail.

Best,
Dan,
 
Now I’m done !
This body kit is such amazing !
Thank you Dan.
Use the 408a tubes and get luck with them cause mine WE408a a quite noiseless.
Transformer is from Srdjan (Moby) and like his BV11 I use in my M49 build I also like his transformer in my U47 clone.
 

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I use the Matt nickel head.
The capsule is a Flea K47.
Always used Thiersch M7 and want to try something new.
 

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And last but not least the K47 capsule in the holder.
Thiersch was kind enough to drill some holes in it.
Mic sound amazing !
 

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Hi, kind of an old newbie here. I built a lot of stuff but that was a few years ago...
I would love to build a couple of these! But I can't manage to find a build thread. I've built the MK47 before but as I said that was a long time ago and would like to get back up on the saddle,..

When I press the BOM button on http://www.vintagemicrophonepcbkit.com/OrderD47.html
I get to the D-U47FET build thread. So the BOM is the same for these microphones?

I have a couple of Raintons Ultimate Mic-PSU-chassis that I would like to use, but where do I find a PCB that goes with this build that fits the chassi? Would this Zayance's MK-U47 be a good choice?

Also I would like some tips for what to choose regards Capsule Holder, Tube socket, layout etc... I can go with Dans D7 as capsules, so would that be the regular M7 holder?

I rather buy transformers and the other components from Europe since I live in Sweden. What would you recommend?

Kind regards
John
 
Hi Monoklang.  This D-47 kit includes BOM & Build documents as well as:
-Wooden Box
-M23 German Binder Mic Side
-Capsule Holder
- Tube Socket of your Choice ( Dual , Noval, Steel Can) and Mounting Hardware
- PCB or your choice  for different Transformer option and a Total of 3 different Circuit ( ef8XX-EF14, Dual 6028, EF12)
-Custom Heatsink on Request for Dropping resistor for original circuit or Dual 6028 circuit
- Plain Metal Deck supplied on request.
- Layout Diagrams of your choice.
 
Monoklang said:
Hi, kind of an old newbie here. I built a lot of stuff but that was a few years ago...
I would love to build a couple of these! But I can't manage to find a build thread. I've built the MK47 before but as I said that was a long time ago and would like to get back up on the saddle,..

When I press the BOM button on http://www.vintagemicrophonepcbkit.com/OrderD47.html
I get to the D-U47FET build thread. So the BOM is the same for these microphones?
this is a mistake on the webpage , i have corrected it and removed the link  all BOM and layout are coming with the kit

I have a couple of Raintons Ultimate Mic-PSU-chassis that I would like to use, but where do I find a PCB that goes with this build that fits the chassi? Would this Zayance's MK-U47 be a good choice?
yes if you choose the VF14 or dual 6028 solution, else i would be able to supply an dual rail PCB for other configuration but it will need some adaptation as per say recalculation and omission of pattern component but you have to figure this part out as i have no documentation on the psu yet

Also I would like some tips for what to choose regards Capsule Holder, Tube socket, layout etc... I can go with Dans D7 as capsules, so would that be the regular M7 holder?
yes regular M7 holder for D7, PM me your wish list and i will have a look


I rather buy transformers and the other components from Europe since I live in Sweden. What would you recommend?

Kind regards
John
 
Hi all,

I'd like to share some pics of a recent U47 build we just finished up. I am so pleased with the way it turned out and the sound is jaw dropping. I did my best to build as close to original spec as possible. Dan was very helpful throughout the process. I purchased the power supply enclosure and circuit board from him in addition to the all the metal parts for the mic except for the transformer deck. I chose to go with the AMI metal transformer deck and circuit boards. As you can all see that is an original VF12M in the mic that I had in storage for some time. Additionally I used a transformer with NOS laminations from AMI, 10nf vintage styroflex C1 cap, hand selected C2 and C3 caps, Mogami cable, Binder connectors, and Neumann K49 capsule. I didn't spare any expense cause this was gonna be my #1 mic. Enjoy!
 

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Poctop, how is the U48/figure 8 mic's cardioid vs the U47's cardioid?  Identical in your circuit?  I've heard the U48 cardioid doesn't sound as good, but you know how the internet is!
 
Hi Guys,
i changed my dual tubes to a Telefunken UF14.
Thanks so much Dan for your help with that!
There are just some little modifications with the Zayance PSU pcb and on the mic.
The only problem is the heat.
The bottom of the mic gets really hot after some minutes.
You can’t nearly touch it.
But for all, who wants to go with a UF14, it’s nearly the same circuit like on the VF14.
Will post pictures later, it’s too late.  ;)


Edit:
The heat seams a problem.
Has anyone a original U47 or something with a EF14 or other tubes.
How is the heat ?
 
Lets Make sure the same number of Watt is dissipated here  ;)
the key of the sounding VF14 is dissipation and underheated tube.
Killing the Watts that is !
Best,
Dan,
 
The main problem is the heat produced from the filament resistor with the UF14 tube.
I would say it’s something between 7 and 11 watt.
I’ll put the filament resistor in the PSU and take an extra heat sink on it.
Then I will connect the resistor through the PSU cable to the mic.
I don’t have done it yet, but I’m sure it will work. First I need a 7-pin mic cable, the one I used at this times, has just 5-pin.

 
In the kit I received there was a solder tab and screw in a bag labeled “bell” star ground. Does this need to be attached to the bottom mic where the binder connector is? Is this in addition to the solder tab on the PCB? Thanks
 
Thanks for all the help, everyone. Big thanks for Dan for an amazing project. I'm almost ready to fire the mic up, but I'm having some anxiety about how to wire the mic cable. I'm using a Gotham 7 wire tube mic cable with a Binder 9 pin connector at the mic end and Binder 7 pin at the PSU end. Here is the wiring I was planning to use:
 

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poctop said:
yes it will work just fine with this psu , all you have to do is to remove power to the relay and bypass the pattern switch or simply cut the WIRE  ;D,  you will need to adjust the string resistor since you draw about 6ma less current on the B+ rail.

Best,
Dan,

It may be a bit late to resurrect this thread, but I have to chime in. I finished my mic build today, and I am beyond pleased with both the sound quality, and quality of hardware that I got from Dany. Truly first class!

I do have one question. My build sounds really good as-is, but I see mention of swapping a resistor to accommodate for the lack of a switching relay. That all makes sense to me, but to those of you whom have successfully completed this build, did you raise a resistor value in the PSU or in the mic body?


Best,
Wyatt
 
lalalaetc said:
It may be a bit late to resurrect this thread, but I have to chime in. I finished my mic build today, and I am beyond pleased with both the sound quality, and quality of hardware that I got from Dany. Truly first class!

I do have one question. My build sounds really good as-is, but I see mention of swapping a resistor to accommodate for the lack of a switching relay. That all makes sense to me, but to those of you whom have successfully completed this build, did you raise a resistor value in the PSU or in the mic body?


Best,
Wyatt

Are your voltages where you want them? I assume you mean the extra current draw from the relay running off B+. If your voltages are higher than you want them, you may need to change the power supply dropping resistors. All depends on component variances, wall voltage, etc.
 
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