DIY Neve 1073 +EQ

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ilfungo

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2009
Messages
1,460
Location
ITALY
Hi
I'm building Neve 1073 +EQ with original boards
Can someone tell me where buy a good cost alternative for preamp and eq rotary switches?
Thanks!
 
Hi

I have settled on using the Greyhill switches from Colin at AML. I have tried a bunch of different makes but I think they are the best cosy vs quality option.

http://www.audiomaintenance.com/acatalog/GR-03-001_extended_info.html
http://www.audiomaintenance.com/acatalog/Rotary_Switches.html

All my builds are on PCBs.

Peter
 
Thanks Peter!

My build is like the real one and I need to mount the components on the switch...
With Greyhill could be very difficult.
Alternative?
thanks!
 
I once found switches on ebay from a Russian seller which had hole in the shaft. so you could build your own concentric switches. maybe do a search for nos military switches on ebay.
 
ilfungo said:
Hi
I'm building Neve 1073 +EQ with original boards
Can someone tell me where buy a good cost alternative for preamp and eq rotary switches?
Thanks!
Go for Blore kit.1073 can be tricky to made if you risk with dualconcetric and attenuator switch.
https://www.blore-ed.com/product-page/neve-1073-module-switch-kit

cheers
Sasha
www.beebirdaudio.com
 
I know it's a bit of a leap but you should consider a relay controlled gain. I just did a Neve preamp that uses 8 relays to do -20 to +80dB in 2.5dB steps. Of course the whole point was so that I could use a conventional 10k linear pot. The position of the pot is read by a microcontroller which also controls the relays (along with leds and tactile buttons and everything else). It actually uses less space than the usual 3 pole 24 position rotary switch. And the resolution is better.

Just to give you a vague idea of what I did, this is what the schem and PCB of the relay board look like:

NeveRelaySchemPcb.png


With only 4 relays the attenuator can do 30dB in 2.5 steps because of how the attenuators combine (-2.5, -5, -10, -12.5). Then of course the extra gain stage and the gain boost also combine. It took some trial and error with LTSpice to figure how what resistor values yield the correct impedance. It wasn't clear that it would work at all actually. But all steps are pretty close to the prescribed 5K. Values used are shown in the schem above.

I suppose for most folks writing the code would be the real hurdle to making a relay controlled gain for the Neve. It may not be obvious to a newbie how to "debounce" the potentiometer for example. In short, I just slightly moved the threshold of the step after a step switch. Simple!

I use a table to determine which combination of relays yield the closest step match:
Code:
[SIZE=11px]
struct {
    int16_t db; // x10
    uint8_t rly;
    uint8_t flags;
} neve_steps[] = {
    { 200, RN_ATTN(0), FLAG_NEVE_LINE }, // 0 
    { 175, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A2P5), FLAG_NEVE_LINE }, // 1 
    { 150, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A5), FLAG_NEVE_LINE }, // 2 
    { 125, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A5 | RLY_NEVE_A2P5), FLAG_NEVE_LINE }, // 3 
    { 100, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A10), FLAG_NEVE_LINE }, // 4 
    {  75, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A10 | RLY_NEVE_A2P5), FLAG_NEVE_LINE }, // 5 
    {  50, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A10 | RLY_NEVE_A5), FLAG_NEVE_LINE }, // 6 
    {  25, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A10 | RLY_NEVE_A5 | RLY_NEVE_A2P5), FLAG_NEVE_LINE }, // 7 
    {   0, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A12P5 | RLY_NEVE_A5 | RLY_NEVE_A2P5), FLAG_NEVE_LINE }, // 8 
    { -25, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A12P5 | RLY_NEVE_A10), FLAG_NEVE_LINE }, // 9 
    { -50, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A12P5 | RLY_NEVE_A10 | RLY_NEVE_A2P5), FLAG_NEVE_LINE }, // 10
    { -75, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A12P5 | RLY_NEVE_A10 | RLY_NEVE_A5), FLAG_NEVE_LINE }, // 11
    { -100, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A12P5 | RLY_NEVE_A10 | RLY_NEVE_A5 | RLY_NEVE_A2P5), FLAG_NEVE_LINE }, // 12
    { -100, 0, FLAG_NEVE_OFF }, // 13
    { 200, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A12P5 | RLY_NEVE_A5 | RLY_NEVE_A2P5), 0x00 }, // 14
    { 225, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A12P5 | RLY_NEVE_A5), 0x00 }, //15 
    { 250, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A10 | RLY_NEVE_A5), 0x00 }, // 16
    { 275, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A10 | RLY_NEVE_A2P5), 0x00 }, // 17
    { 300, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A10), 0x00 }, // 18
    { 325, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A5 | RLY_NEVE_A2P5), 0x00 }, // 19
    { 350, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A5), 0x00 }, // 20
    { 375, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A2P5), 0x00 }, // 21
    { 400, RN_ATTN(0), 0x00 }, // 22
    { 425, RN_ATTN(0) | RLY_NEVE_B2P5, 0x00 }, // 23
    { 450, RN_ATTN(0) | RLY_NEVE_B5, 0x00 }, // 24
    { 475, RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A2P5) | RLY_NEVE_B10, 0x00 }, // 25
    { 500, RN_ATTN(0) | RLY_NEVE_B10, 0x00 }, // 26
    { 525, RN_ATTN(0) | RLY_NEVE_B10 | RLY_NEVE_B5 | RLY_NEVE_B2P5, 0x00 }, // 27
    { -100, 0, FLAG_NEVE_OFF }, // 28
    { 550, RLY_NEVE_GX | RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A10 | RLY_NEVE_A5), 0x00 }, // 29
    { 575, RLY_NEVE_GX | RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A10 | RLY_NEVE_A2P5), 0x00 }, // 30
    { 600, RLY_NEVE_GX | RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A10), 0x00 }, // 31
    { 625, RLY_NEVE_GX | RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A5 | RLY_NEVE_A2P5), 0x00 }, // 32
    { 650, RLY_NEVE_GX | RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A5), 0x00 }, // 33
    { 675, RLY_NEVE_GX | RN_ATTN(RLY_NEVE_A2P5), 0x00 }, // 34
    { 700, RLY_NEVE_GX | RN_ATTN(0), 0x00 }, // 35
    { 725, RLY_NEVE_GX | RN_ATTN(0) | RLY_NEVE_B2P5, 0x00 }, // 36
    { 750, RLY_NEVE_GX | RN_ATTN(0) | RLY_NEVE_B5, 0x00 }, // 37
    { 775, RLY_NEVE_GX | RN_ATTN(0) | RLY_NEVE_B5 | RLY_NEVE_B2P5, 0x00 }, // 38
    { 800, RLY_NEVE_GX | RN_ATTN(0) | RLY_NEVE_B10, 0x00 }, // 39
};
[/SIZE]
Some steps are off by a dB or so but nothing anyone is going to notice:

StepChart.png


Oh, and it's way cheaper BTW.
 
Thanks to all for suggestions!!!
New info about film capacitors :
is it worth spending so much on the Mustard Caps?
( I will to go closer to original sound)
Thanks!!!
 
ilfungo said:
Thanks to all for suggestions!!!
New info about film capacitors :
is it worth spending so much on the Mustard Caps?
( I will to go closer to original sound)
Thanks!!!

Short answer, not worth it. Mustard caps were made by Mullard in the UK which is mostly why we used them at Neve back in the 70s. Any good film capacitor will be fine.

Cheers

Ian
 
I'm on wirings!!!
Just one info
where in the circuit  I need to use shielded cable ? ( 2 conductor+ Shield or 1+ Shield)
Thanks!!!
 
ilfungo said:
I'm on wirings!!!
Just one info
where in the circuit  I need to use shielded cable ? ( 2 conductor+ Shield or 1+ Shield)
Thanks!!!
All signal , and fb connections goes through shielded cable(if you look at attenuator wiring , they are almoist all shielded) .Except maybe OT , there you can use tightly twisted wires.
 
"I know it's a bit of a leap but you should consider a relay controlled gain."

Cool squarewave, love it.
 
hi
can someone tell me if the red arrows on the schematics are connections?
4-5?
Tahnks
 

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