Ampeg SVT-VR : tube advice (6550)

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ricothetroll

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Jul 5, 2005
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325
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Hi !

I must change the 6x 6550 output tubes from an Ampeg SVT-VR. After a run through the tube tester one is perfectly dead with the heater opened, and the five others are beyond worn out, and widely unmatched.

I tend to go for relatively cheap tubes like JJ's, EH or Tungsol, and see how things go and if I like the sound (99% of the time I do), but in that case a sextet of even those cheap tubes is at least 180€, and SVT's have the reputation to be tube eaters (700V plate voltage...), so I guess I could use some third party experience here ;)

Can someone recommend a reasonably priced  6550 that's sturdy enough to cope with the SVT ? Any serious tube reseller that could be trusted for the tube matching ?

Thanx in advance.

Best regards.

Eric
 
Thanx for your answer CJ !

It's really hard to find infos about tube reliability that are not contradictory...

BTW, what about KT88 ? They're rated for higher voltages, but do they retain the "classic" SVT sound ?
 
> do they retain the "classic" SVT sound ?

bleeding_ear_boy_by_obersten.jpg
 
interesting stuff from w-ped

The SVT amps with 6146B tubes tend to put out a bit more watts of power as well as have a more pronounced grind in low mids that makes these amps desirable for some bass players. The 6550A version of SVT amps tends to have a more rounder deeper bass sound.. Mainly due to the output transformer primary inductance with respect to plate resistance..The 6146 is much lower in transconductance and is less sensitive to drive signal, thus needs a bigger voltage swing to drive than a 6550... another reason the 6146 amps have more growl than its 6550 counterpart is because the pre-amp is turned up a bit higher to achieve the equivalent power output swing, thus more "grind" (fuzz bass) can be obtained from the preamp.

The 6146B tube in itself does not have instability issues and is a reliable tube. The early driver circuit was not properly designed, therefore would blow the 6146B tubes on occasion. The reason most 6146 SVT amps blow tubes and resistors is due to front end 12BH7 voltage amplifier is being fed from the 430V node. During loud transients and overloads this will produce an AC signal that far exceed the 12BH7 follower that has 220V on the plates. So when the follower grid is driven far over its own plate voltage it saturates on the positive half of the signal and thus takes over the BIAS voltage forcing it very positive. The time for this voltage to come back to normal is based on the time constant of the 150K mixer resistors and the coupling cap...by this time it is too late, the bias is pushed way positive and the current gets slammed through the 6146 and they tend to blow the tubes.

Some users have an electronics technician re-wire the 12BH7 feed same as on the later 6550 heads. By adding a 1K and filter cap feeding from the 220V screen supply to the front voltage amp of the 12BH7, this keeps the 6146B tube running reliably with far fewer issues. Conversion of 6146B to 6550 tubes has a dramatic impact on the output power. The amp will produce roughly 225 watts , due to the screen voltage being too low. As such, the power transformer of a 6146B SVT will be about 220V DC on the screen supply at idle instead of the typical 350V idle screen voltage normally seen on 6550 amps.

One solution is wire the screens in a voltage double arrangement, which will end up at roughly 400V screen voltage at idle. This will make for a very powerful 400W SVT. Conversion from a 6550 tube to 6146B tube is a bit trickier, as the 6146B will not tolerate anything over 250V on the screens or else it will arc over. Some amp technicians prefer to disassemble to PT and tap the windings from the side of the bobbin to create a lower voltage taps. Other methods are to use voltage regulation.

The pre-amp is notorious for ground loop hum. Re-wiring and separating the audio ground shield from the power return ground lead in the MOLEX connector is one solution. The pre-amp can sound quicker if the circuit is rebuilt with Hi-End Audio Grade coupling caps. Diodes were later used to by-pass the 22ohm screen resistors. In the event of a tube short failure or simply a transient overload condition the diode will conduct once the current in the 22ohm screen resistor reaches 30mA and beyond, preventing further burning of the PCBA. The diode will clamp the current in the 22ohm screen resistor to 30mA, so preferably the plate resistor will blow...since the plate resistor is acting as a "fuse".

Plate resistors should be kept off the circuit board by approx 1/2" min to prevent PCBA burning. The diode is taking on the current surge to protect the 22ohm resistor, however the peak over current in the diode can only sustain for a short duration. The 6550A version usually idles with roughly 700V DC on the plate and 350V DC on the Screens...during full clean sine wave 300W power output, operating voltages will dip to roughly 650V DC on the Plate and 325V on the Screens. The Output Transformer plate load is 1.6K at 4 Ohm tap and 1.75K at the 2 Ohm tap.

In the early 1980s, Ampeg was bought by MTI in Japan, and the SVT was produced there. Functionally identical, its primary cosmetic differences consisting of: white lettering on a black faceplate, black grill cloth, "elephant hide" or rougher textured tolex, and rack case-style spring-loaded handles, updated from the previous (and painful) rubber covered metal strap handles. Other notable differences of this era of SVT are found on the back panel, including a toggle switch for 2 or 4 ohm speaker impedance loads and a longer and thicker gauge 3-prong power cable. Apparently the transformers used are also of Japanese origin as opposed to the previous manufacturer in Chicago.
 
Wow that's great infos thanx ! Wikipedia isn't generally that abundant on that kind of subjects...

BTW two things suprised me on EHX tubes :
- first I couldt find the datasheet on their website
- secondly their 6550 is rated for 800V plate voltage on the datasheet I fond with ggle
https://www.newsensor.com/pdf/electro-harmonix/6550eh.pdf

They actually do look like built to dissipate more power (42W instead of 35W for JJ's) and have a shape similar to KT88s.
 

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