Hey everybody,
First post here, but I've been searching through the archives, and reading the very helpful info about people modifying their PM1000's
I'm in the middle of recapping mine right now, and I've been over to the krash jones site, and emailed tubejay a few times and they've been very helpful.
So after recapping a couple busses and a couple channels, I've pretty much decided to go w/ Panasonic FC and FM series caps. FM where I can because they're cheaper and are supposed to perform a little better (I don't know whether this is true or not but read somebody saying that on a Google Groups link) and FC caps w/ the smaller ones that aren't available in FM series.
Anyway, the things I'm wanting to do are probably the exact same as a lot of folks w/ PM 1000's.
1.recap the electrolytics + probably the tants
2.Change the eq.
3.add direct outs to about 8 channels
4.resistors?
I have a few questions that maybe you guys could iron out for me.
1. when replacing the tants, has anybody out there really found it to be worth it? I notice a small difference now that I've recapped a couple master modules but it's really not very big so far. Albeit, I havn't recapped the power supply yet.
I remember reading that tubejay was having some problems replacing one of the tants w/ a film cap simply because of the physical size.
Is there another solution besides a film cap? Have you guys reached any kind of consensus as far as good replacement values and types for the tantalums?
2. I've also heard about people wanting to replace resistors. This kind of bums me out just because it's one more thing, but I guess it really depends on whether it's gonna make a big difference. Why replace the resistors? I had thought resistors generally don't go bad.
3. In the eq, what I've read so far on the lab archives is tubejay modifying the eq, and dropping the 1K mid-range to 700Hz, and now I'll have to look again but I can't remember how much of the eq he actually ended up modifying.
But anyway, I'm wondering if it would be possible to drop it down into maybe the 400 Hz range, and to modify the other mid ranges too.
I guess there's probably a few different possibilities here, but I thought I'd bring it up again so I can really nail it down when I try to do it.
Is what Jay did probably the best way to go? Would trying to drop the 1K to 400HZ be possible? What would be cool is to do some channels one way, and a few another way.
I remember reading the values on the krashjones site that he'd suggested to get closer to 1073 or an API mid-range selections, but I'm not sure if he ever ended up actually doing it that way, so maybe you could chime in here Mr. krashjones. Is there an update to your web-page that maybe I havn't found yet?
Phew.
4. One of the buss modules that I recapped, I did with panasonic M series caps. The fader on this bus before recapped was kind of scratchy, and maybe I'm crazy, but it seems a little more scratchy afterwards. I'm wondering what the deal is here. I havn't yet ever sprayed any pot cleaner into any pots on the board, so I guess that might clear some things up, but I thought I might just ask if it might have been something I did wrong when recapping. I mean, either I'm hearing things, or it would have to be I guess, but I thought I'd ask. If cleaning the fader pot doesn't work, I really don't know what's going on. Sorry, this question is a total waste of time, it's just a try it and see thing.
5. Tubejay's recommendation was to try and increase the size of every electrolytic cap by at least 50% (correct me if I'm wrong here, Jay) so I've been doing that, but usually it's probably 2-5 times the Uf value. I'm actually paying the extra in caps to keep the Voltage value the same because I'm kind of scared to be sticking 50V caps in there where there's supposed to be a 35V. I know, probably not a big deal, but. . .
So my question is, does this sound alright? (2-5 times bigger, keep the voltage the same) Most sources I've read say it's okay w/ this mixer, but a few times I've asked people and they've been wary about suggesting bigger caps and tell me to just keep all the values exactly the same.
And, if we're replacing the tants w/ films, how much higher are we actually going to go, since theyr'e so big? Oops I guess I already asked that one.
6. How are those direct out mods going? Jay, did you end up using the version I've been reading about in the archives? C37>transformer>output jack. Can you use both the direct out and send the channel to the buss at the same time? This seems pretty easy, so if I can locate some output trannies, I think I'll give it a shot, if I can use both the direct out and the buss at the same time.
but okay,
sorry this is so long. I'm just trying to get my digikey order straightened out.
Thanks in advance.
Jon
First post here, but I've been searching through the archives, and reading the very helpful info about people modifying their PM1000's
I'm in the middle of recapping mine right now, and I've been over to the krash jones site, and emailed tubejay a few times and they've been very helpful.
So after recapping a couple busses and a couple channels, I've pretty much decided to go w/ Panasonic FC and FM series caps. FM where I can because they're cheaper and are supposed to perform a little better (I don't know whether this is true or not but read somebody saying that on a Google Groups link) and FC caps w/ the smaller ones that aren't available in FM series.
Anyway, the things I'm wanting to do are probably the exact same as a lot of folks w/ PM 1000's.
1.recap the electrolytics + probably the tants
2.Change the eq.
3.add direct outs to about 8 channels
4.resistors?
I have a few questions that maybe you guys could iron out for me.
1. when replacing the tants, has anybody out there really found it to be worth it? I notice a small difference now that I've recapped a couple master modules but it's really not very big so far. Albeit, I havn't recapped the power supply yet.
I remember reading that tubejay was having some problems replacing one of the tants w/ a film cap simply because of the physical size.
Is there another solution besides a film cap? Have you guys reached any kind of consensus as far as good replacement values and types for the tantalums?
2. I've also heard about people wanting to replace resistors. This kind of bums me out just because it's one more thing, but I guess it really depends on whether it's gonna make a big difference. Why replace the resistors? I had thought resistors generally don't go bad.
3. In the eq, what I've read so far on the lab archives is tubejay modifying the eq, and dropping the 1K mid-range to 700Hz, and now I'll have to look again but I can't remember how much of the eq he actually ended up modifying.
But anyway, I'm wondering if it would be possible to drop it down into maybe the 400 Hz range, and to modify the other mid ranges too.
I guess there's probably a few different possibilities here, but I thought I'd bring it up again so I can really nail it down when I try to do it.
Is what Jay did probably the best way to go? Would trying to drop the 1K to 400HZ be possible? What would be cool is to do some channels one way, and a few another way.
I remember reading the values on the krashjones site that he'd suggested to get closer to 1073 or an API mid-range selections, but I'm not sure if he ever ended up actually doing it that way, so maybe you could chime in here Mr. krashjones. Is there an update to your web-page that maybe I havn't found yet?
Phew.
4. One of the buss modules that I recapped, I did with panasonic M series caps. The fader on this bus before recapped was kind of scratchy, and maybe I'm crazy, but it seems a little more scratchy afterwards. I'm wondering what the deal is here. I havn't yet ever sprayed any pot cleaner into any pots on the board, so I guess that might clear some things up, but I thought I might just ask if it might have been something I did wrong when recapping. I mean, either I'm hearing things, or it would have to be I guess, but I thought I'd ask. If cleaning the fader pot doesn't work, I really don't know what's going on. Sorry, this question is a total waste of time, it's just a try it and see thing.
5. Tubejay's recommendation was to try and increase the size of every electrolytic cap by at least 50% (correct me if I'm wrong here, Jay) so I've been doing that, but usually it's probably 2-5 times the Uf value. I'm actually paying the extra in caps to keep the Voltage value the same because I'm kind of scared to be sticking 50V caps in there where there's supposed to be a 35V. I know, probably not a big deal, but. . .
So my question is, does this sound alright? (2-5 times bigger, keep the voltage the same) Most sources I've read say it's okay w/ this mixer, but a few times I've asked people and they've been wary about suggesting bigger caps and tell me to just keep all the values exactly the same.
And, if we're replacing the tants w/ films, how much higher are we actually going to go, since theyr'e so big? Oops I guess I already asked that one.
6. How are those direct out mods going? Jay, did you end up using the version I've been reading about in the archives? C37>transformer>output jack. Can you use both the direct out and send the channel to the buss at the same time? This seems pretty easy, so if I can locate some output trannies, I think I'll give it a shot, if I can use both the direct out and the buss at the same time.
but okay,
sorry this is so long. I'm just trying to get my digikey order straightened out.
Thanks in advance.
Jon