Reliqua 312 Quad - Power Supply??

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Hello
These are 4 api clone boards...i made 4 of these a long time ago....wish i had more of these....with some more 1731 melcor boards....
 
Ok Squarewave,  so you are talking about the 10 pin going out to the pre...  I will have to figure out how to set my damn ohmmeter!  its this thing.   
Thanks for the help,  the only soldering I've done is guitar wiring.  So I am definitely not experienced.  i am really just trying to determine if it is only the power that is the problem here.  If there was a power supply at JLM I could get I might just do that!
 

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Well the labeling of that DMM is slightly confusing but the V with a little ~ above it is AC. So put it on the organge 200 to the right of the off position to select 200VAC max. Or for measuring DC put it on the orange 200 to the left of off. And the probe has to be in the right hole. Black is common and then you put the other one in the right hole because the other one is for measuring high current.

So to measure the AC coming in, you have to get the probes on the right two pins. It should be the ones that are visible in your pick. If you try to measure between earth and neutral, you'll get nothing. If you don't get anything, it could be that there's a little oxidation on the metal in which case you need to stab it with the point of the probe tip. Or maybe your wall plug is wired incorrectly. Be careful not to let it slip off and short the two pins together or you'll get a big spark and melt your probe tip or worse. I would be a little surprised if you can't get AC at the input socket. There's just not that much that can go wrong there. Maybe the cable isn't seated well? Donno.

If you do finally get AC in, measure DC on the pins of the cable. You'll have to use the resistance setting (green 200K probably) to figure out which pin is connected to ground. Or just find a ground inside and use an allegator clip to ground the ground probe.

 
Ok, so input ac is fine ( i heated the solder a bit and it read fine).  So for the dc on the cable going to the pre,  one probe to ground , the other to?
 

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hebjam said:
Ok, so input ac is fine ( i heated the solder a bit and it read fine).  So for the dc on the cable going to the pre,  one probe to ground , the other to?
Just try 'em all. You should get two sets of +15, -15, +48 or thereabouts. So 6 voltages and two grounds is 8 pins. If there are more pins than that then presumably they're unused and no wire is attached at the mic pre end.
 
Ok!  So I got  +18.2(2),  -18.2(2),  +45, -38.4,  and then another two which were +5 and -5.    So it seems like power might be ok?  if so I have to really get to work to figure out why there is no signal  :(
 
hebjam said:
Ok!  So I got  +18.2(2),  -18.2(2),  +45, -38.4,  and then another two which were +5 and -5.    So it seems like power might be ok?  if so I have to really get to work to figure out why there is no signal  :(
The -38 and -5 should be +45 and +5. Could it be that you're getting probes reversed?

It should be two sets of +18, -18, +45 (actually it should be +48 but +45 is ok) and +5.

Double check things. If it really is putting out -38 and -5, that's a bad sign. That means the person who made the kit just didn't really know what they were doing in which case there are probably all sorts of other things wrong. And unfortunately that is a real possibility considering the look of the wiring.

At this point you really have to ask yourself what you want to get out of this. If you're just looking for a working mic pre now, it might not be worth it depending on what you paid. You have every right to send this back to the seller. No question.

But if you are trying to get into DIY electronics, this is a perfect start as the API 312 is about as simple as it gets and a high quality circuit. The PCB isn't state of the art but looks correct and should work perfectly if wired correctly. It uses relays instead if routing signals to the panel which is good. A lot of stuff looks like crap but if all of the parts are good it should perform perfectly. Those transformers are probably worth $300+ USD. So unless the whole thing was submerged in a flood (vaguely possible looking at the rust), I don't see why it could not be made to work. So if you want to learn about electronics then I would start by looking at the schematic and trying to figure things out. Otherwise, send it back.
 
AC . . . .


Yeah. Since you're not planning on getting bit, or shouldn't be, I'll tell you that you feel it in your teeth. Not the funnest thing in the world. I had to re evaluate not just DIY at that moment, but my whole life. And decided to put down the iron for the day.
 
Yea,  I was doing electrical in my house last year and got zapped a couple times.  it's somehow the most awful feeling in  the world.  Sure wakes you up though!   
I don't know... I'd love if I could figure out why this unit produces no sound.  I just don't know where to even start.
 
Anyone here ever put these units together?  I am looking for someone who could repair this if possible.
 

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