Neumann M49 internal parts in Beesneez body

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aazaa

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 11, 2018
Messages
104
On the shelf original Neumann M49 internal parts complete with original trafo and capsule are waiting more than 20 years to find a new destination.


All difficulties are gone, It is a pleasure to report the Beesneez-Neumann M49 mic is doing very well now!
 
Hi aazaa, did you contact the manufacturer of the body? He is the active member of this forum. Maybe he can help and fix the issues you have with his product.
 
Hmm, can you squeeze the inner mesh to the rim? It looks like it's to small.
If you can bend it, one last solution could be the use of solder paste... But you then would have to heat the whole headbasket quite a bit and I don't know how the finish reacts to this.  :-\
 
Murdock said:
Hmm, can you squeeze the inner mesh to the rim? It looks like it's to small.
If you can bend it, one last solution could be the use of solder paste... But you then would have to heat the whole headbasket quite a bit and I don't know how the finish reacts to this.  :-\
We dont know how the manufacturer did the joints. Some (poor designed) use epoxy, some welding some solder paste. Whatever we suggest is wrong. Manufacturer has to respond. Dont get me wrong, but I see very clumsy handcraft job here. Maybe it's just your piece, I really have no experience with China made headbaskets.
 
Hi All.

How are we?

That is a really easy problem to fix.

A few points first!

Our m49 body is the same internally to the earlier models.  Your one pictured with the stepped mesh ledge is a later model and this looks a little different internally.

Our mesh is also woven the same as it is the same size and cut directionally identically.

I am sorry the internal layer has become dislodged but it did not look this way when it left our factory. 

I would never have sent it to you looking this way as you sent me many many, many emails as to quality and the like. I even sent you pictures.

Ok lets get to the nitty gritty,

To fix it you will need to either send it back and let me do it or;

Take a small amount of solder paste, 

Hold the mesh in place with your finger but not to close to the joining place.  Apply a pin head or two of the paste, take a hot soldering iron and touch it to the paste for 5 seconds.  Once there is a smell,  remove the iron.  Wait 5 more seconds, and then release your pressure from your fingers holding the mesh in place.  Repeat this around the inner surround of the body and it will then look just like the neumann again.

It is a very simple issue that is very easily fixed.

Do not use too much solder paste as it will spill to the outer layers.  Less is more!

Let me know what you choose to do!

Cheers and sorry for your trouble.

Ben



 
Moby said:
We dont know how the manufacturer did the joints. Some (poor designed) use epoxy, some welding some solder paste. Whatever we suggest is wrong. Manufacturer has to respond. Dont get me wrong, but I see very clumsy handcraft job here. Maybe it's just your piece, I really have no experience with China made headbaskets.


Our joints are all solderpaste grafts.

And these are certainly not China made as you stated!

They are hand made by me,

Cheers.

Ben
 
Hi Paul.

The inner size is perfect and is exactly as the old Neumann was size wise.

Once the mesh is fixed around the body, it will not scratch the plastic of the neumann.

Thanks.

Ben
 
mics said:
Our joints are all solderpaste grafts.

And these are certainly not China made as you stated!

They are hand made by me,

Cheers.

Ben
Dear Ben sorry, I thought it's made in China. Applologies
 
Hi Paul, 

How much difference are we talking?

I am happy to make the adjustment for you.

Can you measure across the top of your plastic Isolator and let me know?

Thanks

Ben
 
What kind of plastic is the Chinese box made of? The original is made out of perspex which is a kind of acryl/plexiglass . I ask, because it's quite important that the material has good dielectric properties as the capsule connections will touch the box...

I'm also on the search for a solution for this, as I want to build a replica. I found plexiglass tubes with the right outside diameter but the inside would have to be cut down. After that I would just glue a top disk on. Should work and look quite good.

But I'm also in contact with a manufacturer who can maybe build it according to original specs. I'm waiting on a quote. 
 
Chinese, cheap, and crap are both spelled starting with the letter "C".  Sorry to read you got "stung".  How close are the dimensions of that Beeznes M49 body to the real deal?
 
aazaa said:
....As mentioned earlier I still don't understand why Ben didn't go for an exact copy of the body of the Neumann M49b or M49C.
Why not go for the highest quality?....

Ben already stated that his M49 body is the same as an earlier M49 model.  It's possible that the headbasket design didn't change with B vs C but at some other random time. I'm not sure headbasket size relates to quality.

The M49 photos on recordinghacks look like different headbasket shapes to me. Maybe it's the lighting and/or angles or maybe there is more than one headbasket shape for the M49.
 
Is the M49 the first angled headbasket? I wonder if they chose the different headbasket for acoustic reasons, rather than for practical assembly reasons (i.e. extra internal room).

Could be something as simple as needing a new stamping die (or whatever it's called) because of upgraded machinery and the engineers at that time decided on the differenc shape.
 

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