Samson resolv 65a

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joakimkarlthomas

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Hello!
I have a Samson Resolv 65a that was broken. Found a burnt resistor, replaced it and the monitor was working again. But now the same resistor was burnt again. Any ideas what might be causing this?

The resistor is R13 /220 ohm
Attached the schematic.
 

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Hi !

If i had those schematics when i had a pair to repair ....
You don´t happen to have the preamp as well ?

i would take a look at the current on the negative rail and compare it to positive rail with amp and preamp (not ) connected
to see which part draws to much current .
of course the Powersupply itself could be faulty .
 
nashkato said:
i would take a look at the current on the negative rail and compare it to positive rail with amp and preamp (not ) connected
to see which part draws to much current .
of course the Powersupply itself could be faulty .

Is it the 15V or 32V Rail you mean?
 
Something on the negative rail has failed short. It could be Q22 or Z2 but by guess would be something in the preamp (your preamp schematic link is just a blank pdf for me). Look at any component with a path to ground downstream from R13. Use a multi-meter to sanity check those parts. They might also look burnt.

PS: After you figure out the root cause and you replace the 220, use a 0.5W part as indicated on the schem so that if you encounter the same or similar problem again it fails instead of something more expensive or hard-to-get like the power transformer.
 
squarewave said:
Look at any component with a path to ground downstream from R13. Use a multi-meter to sanity check those parts.

R13 in the amp section?

Here’s also another try on the preamp schematic.
 

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Yeah. R13 is the resistor that's getting burned out right? So something is drawing too much current downstream from there. From looking at the preamp schem it doesn't look anything is connected to -15 except for op amps and caps. So maybe one of the op amps is dead and shorting.

Or another possibility is that one of the op amp inputs is getting a bad voltage (because of a broken solder joint on a feedback resistor for example) and so the output is pinned low and it's just sitting there dumping current from ground into -15.

Put a 1K resistor in place of R13 just for testing and then use the DMM to sanity check voltages. Press on the PCB a little to see if -15 voltage fluctuates. Look at the voltage drop across the 1K to compute the current being drawn.

Look at the bottom of the board for bad solder joints where the solder is cracked or falling off or just doesn't look right.
 
squarewave said:
Yeah. R13 is the resistor that's getting burned out right? So something is drawing too much current downstream from there. From looking at the preamp schem it doesn't look anything is connected to -15 except for op amps and caps. So maybe one of the op amps is dead and shorting.

Or another possibility is that one of the op amp inputs is getting a bad voltage (because of a broken solder joint on a feedback resistor for example) and so the output is pinned low and it's just sitting there dumping current from ground into -15.

Put a 1K resistor in place of R13 just for testing and then use the DMM to sanity check voltages. Press on the PCB a little to see if -15 voltage fluctuates. Look at the voltage drop across the 1K to compute the current being drawn.

Look at the bottom of the board for bad solder joints where the solder is cracked or falling off or just doesn't look right.


That's great help! Thanks!
So far I've found a bad solder on the connector named CN2-B. I've tested Q22 in diode mode and the DMM beeps when testing between all the legs and theres also a beep testing the Z2 on reversed meter test leads. I guess this means they're both broken. Will also change R8 and R11 apart from the burnt R13, as they also looks a bit fried. If any of this was the main cause of failure, I don't know. But will change them out and hope for the best.
 
2SA935 ?
A935 , Is that whats written on Q22 ?
i´m not sure if i remember correctly , and i don´t have my pair anymore to check , that i saw 7815/7915 as regulators for +/- 15V rails .

Q22 however could have gone faulty by too much current caused by a short downstream , so if you just replace those parts there´s a chance that they might blow immediatly when powering on without slowly increasing the mains voltage while checking current.

 
nashkato said:
Q22 however could have gone faulty by too much current caused by a short downstream , so if you just replace those parts there´s a chance that they might blow immediatly when powering on without slowly increasing the mains voltage while checking current.

So, if I should start measuring current, is it the + & - 15v rails between preamp and amp where I should start? Can I measure it without Q22, Z2, R8, R11 and R13 on the amp board?
 
joakimkarlthomas said:
Yes thats whats written on it. Searched for 2SA935 on elfa, reichelt and mouser with no hits.

Maybe just not in stock anymore???

Here's a couple on thee bay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2SA935-Original-ROHM-Transistor-2-pcs-/301243529926?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0
 
joakimkarlthomas said:
So, if I should start measuring current, is it the + & - 15v rails between preamp and amp where I should start? Can I measure it without Q22, Z2, R8, R11 and R13 on the amp board?
Like I said, temporarily put 1K in R13. That will allow the unit to power on without burning up. Then you can check thing with power on. The short (assuming it's a short) is going to cause a huge voltage drop across the 1K. Using ohms law you can plug in the voltage drop and 1K to get current. And more important you can see just how low the voltage is going. If it goes to 0V, then obviously something is very much shorting. If you get 5V then maybe it's more like an op amp output is pinned low. Narrow things down a little. Use your ohm meter to check resistance between -15 rail and 0V. If there are connectors that separate boards, maybe you can disconnect one to narrow things down further. There is no specific procedure for any of this. You just have to think about things logically and fiddle.

And you don't have to use the same transistor exact transistor in that power supply. There are lots of transistors that will work there (like BD140). But if you do replace one, you should probably replace the other with the complementary part (BD139 is complement to BD140). But that assumes that there's something wrong with that transistor which so far you have not said anything that makes me suspect the transistor specifically. In fact, if I had to guess, I would say it's actually no the short because it's not even connected to ground.
 
squarewave said:
Like I said, temporarily put 1K in R13. That will allow the unit to power on without burning up. Then you can check thing with power on. The short (assuming it's a short) is going to cause a huge voltage drop across the 1K. Using ohms law you can plug in the voltage drop and 1K to get current. And more important you can see just how low the voltage is going. If it goes to 0V, then obviously something is very much shorting. If you get 5V then maybe it's more like an op amp output is pinned low. Narrow things down a little. Use your ohm meter to check resistance between -15 rail and 0V. If there are connectors that separate boards, maybe you can disconnect one to narrow things down further. There is no specific procedure for any of this. You just have to think about things logically and fiddle.

And you don't have to use the same transistor exact transistor in that power supply. There are lots of transistors that will work there (like BD140). But if you do replace one, you should probably replace the other with the complementary part (BD139 is complement to BD140). But that assumes that there's something wrong with that transistor which so far you have not said anything that makes me suspect the transistor specifically. In fact, if I had to guess, I would say it's actually no the short because it's not even connected to ground.

Thanks again!
I replaced the dead components which was Q22 (replaced with BD140), Z2 & R13. Also replaced Q21 (replaced with BD139) and 2 resistors close to R13 that gave me to right ohm on the DMM but looked a bit fried.

Tested with 1k on R13 first as recommended. Everything seemed to be ok so I swapped it to 220ohm and it still seems ok. R13 did not burn, and nothing else either. I get the 15v+- to the preamp, but the expected -15v is -14.2 instead. +15v is measuring 14.9vdc.

Will put everything together tomorrow and test with the speakers. Hopefully it will work fine.
Thank you all for the help so far!
 
Another question!
The TDA7294 and TDA2052 had som white lubrication between them and the chassis theyre mounted to. Is this for cooling or to isolate them from the chassis? Was wondering becasuse at least one of them also had plastic film in between the component and chassis.
 
joakimkarlthomas said:
Another question!
The TDA7294 and TDA2052 had som white lubrication between them and the chassis theyre mounted to. Is this for cooling or to isolate them from the chassis? Was wondering becasuse at least one of them also had plastic film in between the component and chassis.

The white grease is for heat transfer/cooling........ The plastic/mica washer is for isolation in this scenario looks like because the metal tab isn't ground but negative supply..... Hopefully someone can chime in....  I've attached data sheet for 7294...

here's the 2052...same deal looks like

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=2ahUKEwjGiMmiqLjeAhVLKKwKHc6iDQ0QFjAAegQIABAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.st.com%2Fresource%2Fen%2Fdatasheet%2Fcd00000208.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0dzUjlx6D7QDOK2ZMkUJPE

 

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scott2000 said:
The white grease is for heat transfer/cooling........ The plastic/mica washer is for isolation in this scenario looks like because the metal tab isn't ground but negative supply..... Hopefully someone can chime in....  I've attached data sheet for 7294...

here's the 2052...same deal looks like

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=2ahUKEwjGiMmiqLjeAhVLKKwKHc6iDQ0QFjAAegQIABAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.st.com%2Fresource%2Fen%2Fdatasheet%2Fcd00000208.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0dzUjlx6D7QDOK2ZMkUJPE

Okey, so I should make sure I isolate the tabs on both of them from chassis?
 
I'm not quite sure actually.... maybe spoke to soon if some aren't isolated....

It depends on what's going on in the circuit with that pin that is connected... Maybe why you only see them isolated on some..... unless they were misplaced.....

Have to look at everything ////

Someone will have an answer.......


edit///


they look isolated to me..

can someone verify my attempt???? :-[

pin outs

https://i.postimg.cc/q7G71gqw/tda-pinouts.jpg

..... did you misplace a washer perhaps????





 

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