Why?mkiijam said:needs to be a strictly passive circuit ( no power )
As mentioned before, RLC circuit in the shunt branch of a U-pad, but it's gonna take ages to get the BW right. Getting the frequency is easy using the formula L.C.omega²=1, the attenuation is easy, using a potentiometer, but adjusting BW requires altering the L/C ratio.Best solution? Solder and Mouser or off the shelf?
Active EQmkiijam said:Greetings,
I am tasked to "de-bump" a set of studio monitors 2-4db at 4k. Okay, seems easy, but they are balanced audio and needs to be a strictly passive circuit ( no power )
Best solution? Solder and Mouser or off the shelf?
A 1/3 octave GEQ may not be precise enough; some specific problems happen on a very narrow spectrum.pucho812 said:the easiest solution here would be a graphic eq between the output of the desk or monitor controller and the input to thew powered speakers.
Get yourself a white 4001 and then a second one for the other channel and you are done.
This calculator doesn't say how to adjust the BW...moamps said:In good old days a parallel notch was the obvious solution.
http://www.mh-audio.nl/parallelnotchfilter.asp#IN
Ah, OK.moamps said:This part is on top of the site.
http://www.mh-audio.nl/parallelnotchfilter.asp#vance
By using approximations. Anyway, some experimentation is always needed to adjust it right.abbey road d enfer said:Now, how does one evaluates the BW when the bump is less than 3 dB? Even with a 6db bump that would be quite error prone
Agreed. But you can do that with 3 switched boxes of resistors, caps and coils. 3 knobs also. And a real time measuring is needed anyway. I worked a lot with Sabine and BSS FCS 928 equalizers and think that using it for taming a small bump in FR is over-engineering approach. It will, btw, cost much more.My experience tells me that real-time adjustment is much more practical. You turn 3 knobs and voila!
What is the costs of such boxes? Eve if you DIY them, you need boxes, switches and a bunch of expensive caps and inductors.moamps said:But you can do that with 3 switched boxes of resistors, caps and coils. 3 knobs also.
What's wrong with over-engineering if the cost is contained?I worked a lot with Sabine and BSS FCS 928 equalizers and think that using it for taming a small bump in FR is over-engineering approach.
A second-hand decent parametric EQ can be had for about $150.It will, btw, cost much more.
A decent passive notch filter will cost less than 10 Euro/channel. Multiple it by 3 for extra parts, the cost stays significantly below an active solution.abbey road d enfer said:.....A second-hand decent parametric EQ can be had for about $150...
I already said that building your test jig with switchable caps and inductors will cosst much more. The initial spending could b ejustified if you had to do that often.moamps said:A decent passive notch filter will cost less than 10 Euro/channel. Multiple it by 3 for extra parts, the cost stays significantly below an active solution.
But when I asked him why, he just didn't answer. I have a feeling he's not interested anymore.OP asked for passive solution
We can once again agree to disagree...abbey road d enfer said:I already said that building your test jig with switchable caps and inductors will cosst much more.
and finish this discussion... I have a feeling he's not interested anymore.
Monte McGuire said:It hasn't explicitly been stated, but you can use an active EQ to find exactly the dip you want to end up with and then measure that and make a passive network to duplicate the active EQ's curve. The advantage is that you can use your ears (or room measurement tools) to find the correction you need first, and then build a passive network to mimic that curve. This seems a lot more straightforward than trying a pile of successively tweaked passive networks - use a generic EQ first
Enter your email address to join: