Power Switch - Front vs Back - Live vs Neutral

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john12ax7

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Oct 15, 2010
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For some new projects am considering using an all in one IEC receptacle, so integrated fuse and power switch.  This is convenient and saves needing to run 120 V back and forth to the front panel. The downside being the switch is not easily accessible behind the rack.  Is the annoyance worth the gain?

A second question is I have seen some commercial units with a power switch on the front. But they use it to switch the neutral wire . What is the justification for this? I tend to either switch live or both .
 
All my recent builds have the all-in-one type IEC with integrated power switch and fuse - works very well for me, as I have switched power distribution in all of my racks anyway so turn everything on and off from the front. Saves a bit of faffing around, and makes space on the panel for something else!

I’d understood it’s good practice to always switch both live and neutral. Could be that some manufacturers only switch neutral for an easier/cheaper layout?
 
TwentyTrees said:
I’d understood it’s good practice to always switch both live and neutral. Could be that some manufacturers only switch neutral for an easier/cheaper layout?

It is very much safest to switch both live & neutral, & on anything I build that is what I do,but if I were to switch one it would definitely be the live. 
 
john12ax7 said:
For some new projects am considering using an all in one IEC receptacle, so integrated fuse and power switch.  This is convenient and saves needing to run 120 V back and forth to the front panel. The downside being the switch is not easily accessible behind the rack.  Is the annoyance worth the gain?
I'd rather not have a switch than having a switch on the back of a rack-mounted unit. Having no switch is allowed only for low-power units, though (I think it's less than 50VA - not sure).

A second question is I have seen some commercial units with a power switch on the front. But they use it to switch the neutral wire . What is the justification for this? I tend to either switch live or both .
It seems there is no rule about it. The fuse should be in the Live connection though. The way these integrated connector/fuse/switch are made, the easiest (if not smartest) was to put the connections for the switch opposite the fuse.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Inlet-Socket-Switch-IEC320/dp/B00511QVVK
There are some models where both Live and Neutral are fused and switched
http://c1170156.r56.cf3.rackcdn.com/UK_DEL_01-03-06IB2S_DS.pdf
 
I have done both. For mixers I but it at the back and like others have said I use an integrated IEC connector/fuse. For rack mounting lunch boxes with an integral power supply I usually put the mains switch on the front.

Cheers

Ian
 
Of course, there is that japanese hifi technique ...  with a rear mounted push-switch and an mech extender to a front panel button.

I do think there is a gain there,  vs  routing mains to a front panel switch and back again to an onboard toroid - *if* there is any chance at all of anything sensitive near that side ..

One channel of preamping  in a 1ru with a good distance  to the far-side-panelmains-wiring  is fine, I think.
 
Yes I've seen the mechanical extender technique as well,  it's probably the most elegant solution.

Are you guys using filtered or non -filtered IEC connectors? Might give the filtered ones a go.

Edit: Looked at another commercial unit and this one uses the extender method.  Just a long rod,  essentially a really extended push-button switch cap.  Wonder if it's a standard part.
 
alexc said:
Of course, there is that japanese hifi technique ...  with a rear mounted push-switch and an mech extender to a front panel button.
There was a time, these extenders were available in almost every radio shop and cost a penny. Today, they are no more used regularly and cost a fortune, cause unity-made.
Today, it is less costly to use a momentary low-voltage switch and some logic driving a relay.
 
The only problem I had with front power switches was a console PS where customers would place the PS on the floor under the console and turn them off by accident with their feet.

JR
 
I remember Brian Roth saying that the neutral wire should always stay connected and the live wire should be switched , I believe its in case the neutral disconnects from the ground or something along that line.
 
user 37518 said:
I remember Brian Roth saying that the neutral wire should always stay connected and the live wire should be switched , I believe its in case the neutral disconnects from the ground or something along that line.
If the product is properly designed to UL safety standards, both the line and neutral leads are insulated from the chassis and customer, so it shouldn't matter.

In an ideal (properly wired) outlet, neutral is 0V but many DIY electricians swap line and neutral so don't count on it always being cold.

JR
 
user 37518 said:
I remember Brian Roth saying that the neutral wire should always stay connected and the live wire should be switched , I believe its in case the neutral disconnects from the ground or something along that line.
I live in a country where power sockets are not polarized. If a piece of equipment really goes wrong, there is not much difference between getting 230Vac directly or via a transformer's winding. In both cases you're dead.
What makes a difference is having a sturdy earth connection and a fuse or circuit breaker.
I'm terrified at the notion of having earth and neutral swapped (USA) or even tied at the wall socket (Norway).
 
abbey road d enfer said:
I live in a country where power sockets are not polarized.
Some very old outlets in the US are not polarized (neutral lead fatter), and many even when polarized are two circuit lacking a safety ground.

My house is old enough that it lacks safety grounds behind the walls (I actually added my own safety ground in my laundry room and one outlet by my kitchen sink.
If a piece of equipment really goes wrong, there is not much difference between getting 230Vac directly or via a transformer's winding. In both cases you're dead.
I assume you are talking about conduction path through the primary winding?  UL stipulates well insulated line and neutral wiring inside equipment chassis.
What makes a difference is having a sturdy earth connection and a fuse or circuit breaker.
This is the primary line of safety management advocated by UL, but as I shared outlets with safety ground are not universally available, while certainly all new builds have safety grounds as well as other newer safety technology.

I advocate for and use GFCI (RCL) outlets myself (around water) as a practical safety device that does not rely upon safety grounds to protect humans. 
I'm terrified at the notion of having earth and neutral swapped (USA) or even tied at the wall socket (Norway).
I have written about this at length (not about Norway).  Here is a web page I put up a couple years ago http://www.johnhroberts.com/OD1.htm  I actually designed an outlet tester that effectively detects reversed polarity, and more importantly detects reverse polarity bootleg ground, actually very dangerous when safety ground is energized. (I abandoned the outlet tester product as too expensive NRE for too little return from a low priced SKU)

Many homeowners, in old houses like mine when upgrading to modern 3 wire outlets are tempted to bootleg safety ground to the neutral (nominally 0V). In theory this should work, in practice it can cause multiple problems (DO NOT bootleg safety grounds). If concerned about human safety GFCI outlets can be retrofitted into most older homes.

In addition to GFCI/RCL  another modern mains safety device AFCI (arc fault circuit interrupter) actually detects loose wire junctions.  Loose wire junctions can heat up and have been indicated in multiple house fires. Since my house is the poster boy for cheap wiring, I probably should have a modern breaker panel with GFCI and AFCI built in. (I did find a loose wire connection under my stove top, when a burner wasn't making full heat. I fixed that one with a wire nut).

Sorry for the TMI

JR
 
JohnRoberts said:
Some very old outlets in the US are not polarized (neutral lead fatter), and many even when polarized are two circuit lacking a safety ground.
We have earthed sockets and unearthed. Appliances with double insulation (class 2) have no earth pin and can be plugged in both types, appliances with an earth pin (class 1) cannot be plugged in non-earthed sockets theoretically. In fact there are too many cheater plugs.

My house is old enough that it lacks safety grounds behind the walls
In France, you run the risk of not being covered by your insurance in case of fire or death by electrocution. When you sell a house, you need a certificate of conformity.
Earhed sockets are mandatory for rooms that use water (kitchen, bath, laundry...) and also for rooms that have tiled soil.

I assume you are talking about conduction path through the primary winding?
That's correct.

  UL stipulates well insulated line and neutral wiring inside equipment chassis. This is the primary line of safety management advocated by UL, but as I shared outlets with safety ground are not universally available, while certainly all new builds have safety grounds as well as other newer safety technology.
That's probably the most signifiacnt difference between US and France (actually Germany too), where emphasis is put on safety earth. A piece of gear that relies on earth continuity for safety should not be used where no safety earth is available; period.

I advocate for and use GFCI (RCL) outlets myself (around water) as a practical safety device that does not rely upon safety grounds to protect humans.
We just don't have these GFCI receptacles here. There is at least one GFCI at the trunk for overall protection, plus one to the outlets and one to the oven/range, In my particular case, I have a total of 5.

I have written about this at length (not about Norway).  Here is a web page I put up a couple years ago http://www.johnhroberts.com/OD1.htm  I actually designed an outlet tester that effectively detects reversed polarity, and more importantly detects reverse polarity bootleg ground, actually very dangerous when safety ground is energized. (I abandoned the outlet tester product as too expensive NRE for too little return from a low priced SKU)
I am familar with your thread here. That's fascinating reading, in the sense that it addresses an issue that exists only because of the incredible amount of laxism of certain persons and concerns.

Many homeowners, in old houses like mine when upgrading to modern 3 wire outlets are tempted to bootleg safety ground to the neutral (nominally 0V).
Did nobody tell them they play with fire?

In addition to GFCI/RCL  another modern mains safety device AFCI (arc fault circuit interrupter) actually detects loose wire junctions.  Loose wire junctions can heat up and have been indicated in multiple house fires.
That's interesting; I had never heard about them until today.
Still there is a debate about them, up to the point that the standardization process is stalled since 2014. The main concerns are:
Pertinence: is there enough proof that arcing is a significant cause of fire? The "demonstrations" I've seen on Youtube do not convince me; the state of disrepair of the examples presented is caricatural. However, even if the number of prevented fires is small, it is worth it.
Performance: it seems some testers have managed to fool the detector. An issue here is that, since they are not mandatory, there is not much research done on them. Only one manufacturer makes them.
 
> another modern mains safety device AFCI (arc fault circuit interrupter) actually detects loose wire junctions.

Evidence?

I know the product was designed for that purpose. The test rig looks nothing like an overloaded cheap-chit plug in a cheap-chit outlet (a major cause of house fires). Arcing does not always happen. Glowing-Contact detection really has to be in every plug/socket interface. Apparently these things "work" because the cheap outlet plastic goes very leaky as it softens and *that* upsets the GFI function (if the outlet has a ground). The AFCI function only trips on normal vacuum-cleaner motors and other innocent loads.
 
PRR said:
> another modern mains safety device AFCI (arc fault circuit interrupter) actually detects loose wire junctions.

Evidence?
I don't have any... I've seen photographs of house fires posted by electricians that swear by these, but I am not similarly motivated, like I am to embrace GFCI

JR
I know the product was designed for that purpose. The test rig looks nothing like an overloaded cheap-chit plug in a cheap-chit outlet (a major cause of house fires). Arcing does not always happen. Glowing-Contact detection really has to be in every plug/socket interface. Apparently these things "work" because the cheap outlet plastic goes very leaky as it softens and *that* upsets the GFI function (if the outlet has a ground). The AFCI function only trips on normal vacuum-cleaner motors and other innocent loads.
 
abbey road d enfer said:
We have earthed sockets and unearthed. Appliances with double insulation (class 2) have no earth pin and can be plugged in both types, appliances with an earth pin (class 1) cannot be plugged in non-earthed sockets theoretically. In fact there are too many cheater plugs.
I've shared this anecdote before. At a dealer seminar in central Mexico a Peavey dealer told me the way they can tell a product is not used, is if the ground pin hasn't been cut off yet.  ::) 
In France, you run the risk of not being covered by your insurance in case of fire or death by electrocution. When you sell a house, you need a certificate of conformity.
Hopefully Hickory will not become France any time soon. Pretty low on my list of concerns. If I get electrocuted or killed in a house fire, I don't give a flip about insurance.  :eek:
Earhed sockets are mandatory for rooms that use water (kitchen, bath, laundry...) and also for rooms that have tiled soil.
That's correct.
That's probably the most signifiacnt difference between US and France (actually Germany too), where emphasis is put on safety earth.
new construction here too
A piece of gear that relies on earth continuity for safety should not be used where no safety earth is available; period.
I am comfortable with GFCI outlets.  They make portable GFCI power strips that I advocate for musicians to use for their back line in questionable venues. 
We just don't have these GFCI receptacles here. There is at least one GFCI at the trunk for overall protection, plus one to the outlets and one to the oven/range, In my particular case, I have a total of 5.
I am not familiar with French mains wiring but understand RCL (like GFCI)  are used on mains branches in breaker panels in several EU nations.
I am familar with your thread here. That's fascinating reading, in the sense that it addresses an issue that exists only because of the incredible amount of laxism of certain persons and concerns.
I consider it "weak" that UL approves the cheap 3 lamp outlet tester that is blind to reverse polarity bootleg ground. UL stipulates that they include a printed warning in the instructions (that it doesn't detect multiple errors like RPBG), but this is usually very tiny print on the back of the cardboard counter card packaging that get discarded without ever being looked at. 

[edit- in fairness UL works for and is paid by the manufacturers so their task is to help the manufacturer build products that won't kill customers. They do not quibble about whether the designs are good. [/edit]
Did nobody tell them they play with fire?
no...  Oddly when I replaced my wall oven and installed it myself (probably illegal in France), the instructions advised me to bootleg the oven chassis ground to neutral. I was going to pay a local electrician to pull a new 4 conductor power drop but he still hasn't returned my phone calls. Git er dun...
That's interesting; I had never heard about them until today.
Still there is a debate about them, up to the point that the standardization process is stalled since 2014. The main concerns are:
Pertinence: is there enough proof that arcing is a significant cause of fire? The "demonstrations" I've seen on Youtube do not convince me; the state of disrepair of the examples presented is caricatural. However, even if the number of prevented fires is small, it is worth it.
Performance: it seems some testers have managed to fool the detector. An issue here is that, since they are not mandatory, there is not much research done on them. Only one manufacturer makes them.
I am unsure of the data surrounding this... We see plenty of house fires in the US. Unclear that AFCI will eliminate or significantly reduce them (first we need better forest management, at least in CA). 

JR
 
user 37518 said:
I remember Brian Roth saying that the neutral wire should always stay connected and the live wire should be switched , I believe its in case the neutral disconnects from the ground or something along that line.

When we were yacking, eons ago <g> my point was that in USA power distro systems, the neutral was "solid" and not interrupted by switches or circuit breakers.

I personally choose to put the switch and fuse in the "hot" leg.  Works well until the wires in the wall flip.

Bri
 
john12ax7 said:
Are you guys using filtered or non -filtered IEC connectors? Might give the filtered ones a go.

I have recently started using some filtered iec mains connectors  ...  can't say I have noticed or measured any difference yet, but it's early days for me using and measuring them.

I have a larger, high current  Japan made unit, which I plan to use in a big class A stereo amp  ...  and a couple of smaller  schaeffer (I think)  euro units for the smaller powered builds.

My reason for using is more 'aesthetic' than anything else - looks kind of shiny and impressive  .. vs a plain old plastic connector :)

My area has some regular transient schmutz on the mains lines ... I've yet to test what effect if any the mains filters have. I think they are used more for 'rfi' (radio frequency interference) induced into the mains ?  Fortunately, I haven't noticed any rfi type issues.

So, not sure really.  Maybe Abbey can add something on this subject.
 

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