G.TEN 500 series graphic eq (V4 revision) 18.05.23 back in stock

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OneRoomStudios said:
I finally got a chance to finish the opamps and test these out. Unfortunately, only one of them is working at the moment. I must have screwed something up, but I can't figure it out.

The one that isn't working passes signal in bypass, but nothing when engaged. The LED changes from red to green, but no signal. I switched the DOAs, but that doesn't make a difference. I compared the two units, and all the components are identical and in the same polarity. All the opamp power rails have the correct voltage (including DOA), and I can hear the relay activating, so I don't think it's a bad relay. It's hard to troubleshoot much further without a schematic though. Is it possible to get a schematic, or does anyone have any idea of what the issue might be?

As a side note, the one that's working sounds fantastic!

You can send me an images of your nonworking unit and I think I will find a trouble.
 
OneRoomStudios said:
U1 seems to be getting really hot. I'm guessing there's a short somewhere, but I can't see it. Is U1 on the input or output?

U1 is an input buffer. If you have G.TEN V2 boards it should be NE5534. Check direction placement or try to replace it (if it's burned already).
And I wrote you in PM you can check signal flow using updated assemble manual. Check first post of the thread.
 
My guess is your IDC male connector on backside of front panel board might be shorting out. Igor is very specific about filing the contacts down and covering it with tape as to avoid shorts.
 
IMPORTANT MASSAGE!

I added updated assemble manual in a first post of the thread. It's for G.TEN V2 boards revision. 
On page 45 it contain step-by-step instruction for checking signal flow from IN to OUT. Can be useful for troubleshooting.

Cheers.
Igor
 
dirty1_1garry said:
IMPORTANT MASSAGE!

I added updated assemble manual in a first post of the thread. It's for G.TEN V2 boards revision. 
On page 45 it contain step-by-step instruction for checking signal flow from IN to OUT. Can be useful for troubleshooting.

Cheers.
Igor

Thank you Igor! I will take a look.

Bobby Baird said:
My guess is your IDC male connector on backside of front panel board might be shorting out. Igor is very specific about filing the contacts down and covering it with tape as to avoid shorts.

I cut them short as directed and insulated with electrical tape. I don't think that's the issue. Good idea though!

dirty1_1garry said:
You can send me an images of your nonworking unit and I think I will find a trouble.

IMG-2402.jpg

IMG-2403.jpg



Thank you both for the help!
 
Bobby Baird said:
My guess is your IDC male connector on backside of front panel board might be shorting out. Igor is very specific about filing the contacts down and covering it with tape as to avoid shorts.

G.TEN third batch will fox it. There will be smd IDC connector.
 
SKJGProject said:
When will it be available?

Well, I can't tell you exact date but I think somewhere in September/October 2020 .
At this moment I'm waiting to receive custom ordered S-curve slide potentiometers, then I should receive front panels and all other parts.
As I want to make a full kit (including 2520 and output transformer) I ordered E-core iron for 2503 type transformer. Yes, I will wind them myself with computer winding machine that I already got :p
 
One more comment - on page 43 there is a schematic for wiring 2503 as 1:2. There is a mistake - that's necessary to ground only one unused wire (ORG or YEL), NOT both. If you will connect both you will get a short circuit at one secondary (that's safe for transformer) and you will read -6db instead of +6dB trx gain.

AUcQCYy.jpg


Do color codes match standard API 2503 colors or are they specific to the Garash TX? Reason I ask is I'd like to use a different TX and checking pcb they seem to be:

Brown and Blue are Hot and Cold outs respectively (edge conn)
Violet is from OPA, TX in
Red and Green are bridged
Grey and Orange are ACOM

Thank you


EDIT: Granted the 4 windings can be purposed for whichever I/O chosen, but below I think is how 1:2 would be done for use of 3rd party TX's where PCB requires
VIO as Pri in, and BRN as 2ndary out (hot), and ORG tied to ACOM

Anyone willing to review I'd appreciate it, thanks!

bwnlHSR.jpg
 
boji said:
Do color codes match standard API 2503 colors or are they specific to the Garash TX? Reason I ask is I'd like to use a different TX and checking pcb they seem to be:
Brown and Blue are Hot and Cold outs respectively (edge conn)
Violet is from OPA, TX in
Red and Green are bridged
Grey and Orange are ACOM
EDIT: Granted the 4 windings can be purposed for whichever I/O chosen, but below I think is how 1:2 would be done for use of 3rd party TX's where PCB requires
VIO as Pri in, and BRN as 2ndary out (hot), and ORG tied to ACOM
Anyone willing to review I'd appreciate it, thanks!
G.TEN V2 is specified for standard 2503 type out trx. On main pcb it is wires as - one winding for primary and two in series for secondary for 1:2 step up ratio, one winding unused.

In G.TEN V3 we made our own 2503 type transformer and paralleled two windings for primary and two in series for secondary.
 
⚠️G.TEN is OUT NOW!⚠️
10.04.2021
We're PROUD to OFFICIALLY announce the G.TEN V3 for release!

V3 means that it’s third revision and third batch. Including the third batch there will be 100 G.TEN’s happy owners all over the world!
We have successfully overcome the difficulties of supplying components during a quarantine time. We shifted the release dates several times and finally... THAT DAY came when we can say - we did everything as well as we could to start sales!
In the third revision, we have improved several points to make G.TEN even better and easier to build. In order to avoid the need to purchase components in additional places, we tried to make the kit as complete as possible. We have developed our own output transformer based on the 2503 transformer. Now all that is additionally needed is DOA, which you can also get from us.
 
Just getting this project on the bench. Igor one of my panels has a misplaced hole for the In / Out button.
Oh, shit!!!
I double checked all front panels but the bug still leaked out.
Will send you the new one. Please send me a massage with your address.

Cheers,
Igor
 
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