DIY-Racked DR-609 build...

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ron_swanson

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 14, 2018
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174
Location
San Francisco, USA
Getting ready to start a DIY-Racked DR-609 build...

Wondering if there's anyone here who has completed one of these kits that might care to share their thoughts, comments, caveats or tips before I head down the rabbit hole?

Any and all input appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Greg
 
Not sure what exactly you are looking for and if you'll find many answers here.
But if you run into problems, diy racked has an FAQ page where you can contact their "tech guys"
 
weiss said:
Not sure what exactly you are looking for and if you'll find many answers here.
But if you run into problems, diy racked has an FAQ page where you can contact their "tech guys"

Hi weiss,

Just checking mostly...

I am aware of the FAQ over at DYI-Racked and also aware of their support staff email.    That said, unless I'm missing something, the FAQ is exceedingly low on technical information.

In the past, most of the builds I have built over the years have had rather large forum threads here or elsewhere that were full of a lot of useful information , mods and often problem resolutions even if not necessarily applicable at any one moment. 

There doesn't seem to be much  talk here or elsewhere about this kit - at least, that I have been able to find. 

Maybe you can shed some light on this question... I am wondering what exactly the AMP340 is in relation to this build as it's referenced in the DR-609 BOM as well as the calibration instructions the build manual?  It appears to have something to do with the limiter / threshold circuitry?  I can't seem to find much of anything on the Interwebs as I'd like to learn / understand what the parts are and how the circuits work for all the build I undertake.  Maybe I'm just not searching correctly?   

Thanks for chiming in.  Always enjoy reading your posts.  Your knowledge is much appreciated!

Greg
 
ron_swanson said:
Hi weiss,

Just checking mostly...

I am aware of the FAQ over at DYI-Racked and also aware of their support staff email.    That said, unless I'm missing something, the FAQ is exceedingly low on technical information.

In the past, most of the builds I have built over the years have had rather large forum threads here or elsewhere that were full of a lot of useful information , mods and often problem resolutions even if not necessarily applicable at any one moment. 

There doesn't seem to be much  talk here or elsewhere about this kit - at least, that I have been able to find. 

Maybe you can shed some light on this question... I am wondering what exactly the AMP340 is in relation to this build as it's referenced in the DR-609 BOM as well as the calibration instructions the build manual?  It appears to have something to do with the limiter / threshold circuitry?  I can't seem to find much of anything on the Interwebs as I'd like to learn / understand what the parts are and how the circuits work for all the build I undertake.  Maybe I'm just not searching correctly?   

Thanks for chiming in.  Always enjoy reading your posts.  Your knowledge is much appreciated!

Greg

Hey Greg,

In my opinion, the manufacturer of kits or electronic circuits should be the one to offer this kind of information in the first place.
There are no official help threads for these projects here on this forum with good reason.
So if there is nothing in the schematic, manual or documentation that came with your kit i'm afraid you will have to contact their support to get more insight.
I never heard of the AMP340 before. Sorry :/
 
weiss said:
Hey Greg,

In my opinion, the manufacturer of kits or electronic circuits should be the one to offer this kind of information in the first place.
There are no official help threads for these projects here on this forum with good reason.
So if there is nothing in the schematic, manual or documentation that came with your kit i'm afraid you will have to contact their support to get more insight.
I never heard of the AMP340 before. Sorry :/

Ok, fair enough.

Thanks weiss!
 
Some people here were (are?) pretty pissed off with the DIY-Racked guy so maybe that's why you can't find much info about "his" products.

But I agree with weiss.  DIY-Racked should provide you with all the information/ support you need.
 
warpie said:
Some people here were (are?) pretty pissed of with the DIY-Racked guy so maybe that's why you can't find much info about "his" products.

But I agree with weiss.  DIY-Racked should provide you with all the information/ support you need.

Interesting... what was / is the issue if you don't mind sharing? 

Greg
 
ron_swanson said:
Interesting... what was / is the issue if you don't mind sharing? 

Greg

TBH I can't recall what exactly the issue was but I think it had to do with him "borrowing" other people's designs and selling them as his. Or something along these lines anyway.

But I might be wrong. It's been a good few years since this happened.
 
Disregarding the issues with intellectual property and ripping other peoples work off (I don't know the chain of events so unsure what the issue was/is and what products, if any, were ripped off).... 

I've built two of the DR609 and they've turned out great. I think the total build cost came in around $1400ea including custom front panels. I felt the provided front panels felt a little cheap, and had a screen print oversight where both channels were labeled "Channel 2"  Other than that the build went great and they have been happy since I built them about a year and a half ago.

The AMP340 if I remember correctly is just the output opamp stage driving the output transformer.  I think it's synonymous with a neve BA340 (or possibly the BA640?)

I'd be happy to help with any questions you have. I think I even still have the mouser carts I built saved if you'd like them, though I can't guarantee it's 100% accurate.... I usually make one or two mistakes based on part size, but nothing that's going to break the bank or be too confusing.

-Ethan Barrette
 

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TubeMonkey said:
Disregarding the issues with intellectual property and ripping other peoples work off (I don't know the chain of events so unsure what the issue was/is and what products, if any, were ripped off).... 

I've built two of the DR609 and they've turned out great. I think the total build cost came in around $1400ea including custom front panels. I felt the provided front panels felt a little cheap, and had a screen print oversight where both channels were labeled "Channel 2"  Other than that the build went great and they have been happy since I built them about a year and a half ago.

The AMP340 if I remember correctly is just the output opamp stage driving the output transformer.  I think it's synonymous with a neve BA340 (or possibly the BA640?)

I'd be happy to help with any questions you have. I think I even still have the mouser carts I built saved if you'd like them, though I can't guarantee it's 100% accurate.... I usually make one or two mistakes based on part size, but nothing that's going to break the bank or be too confusing.

-Ethan Barrette

Hi Ethan,

Thanks for your response...

I'm also not sure if DIY-Racked had anything doing with 'borrowing'.  I do remember reading threads around here about such things, but I can't remember who was the in the cross-hairs.

Thanks for the offer of lending some help.  Glad to hear that you've successfully built two - your custom front panel looks great!  I'll have to take a look at mine to see if it's a keeper or miss identified as your was.

I do have a few minor questions if you don't mind...

1.) Do you have a schematic for this build by chance?  I asked DIY-Racked, but got no response.  Not super critical, but...

2.) Were you able to source your front control panel knobs in the US and / or did you use Elma Classic Collet Knobs, 14.5mm?

3.) I'd be interested in seeing your BOM if that offer is still open?  I have maybe 90% of the required parts in hand, but as you say.... there's always something that doesn't fit or work for whatever reasons.  For example, the DIY-Racked BOM PSU specs out a pair of Mouser parts that are 2200uf electrolytics, but the BOM specifies 4700uF?    Did you use 2200uF or 4700uF?

4.) Any chance you might be willing to share your fpd - just in case?

Lastly, what transformers did you use?  I have a pair of Marinair LO1173/1s and a pair of St Ivy 31267's that I'm planning on using.  Unless I can find a reasonably priced pair of 10468's, I guess I'll be using Carnhill VTB9045 for Interstage.

Thanks in advance!

Greg
 
As I said, I can't really recall the reason he was banned but I only answered to (perhaps) why there's not much discussion about his projects here.

All that is irrelevant though. Good luck with your project ☺
 
Be careful when calibrating the thing: use the original NEVE instructions. The instructions delivered by DIY Racked contain at least one crucial error (which makes it impossible to calibrate it to spec). And there are other errors: eg. silkscreen says TL072 in one spot (which will not work with +-24 volts).

Another thing: why design a circuit which needs obsolete parts (OPA2604, which can operate on +-24 volts - try finding a substitution). I asked their "tech department" about that, they told me to use OPA604 and some "adaptor PCBs" which I could find on EBay. Well...

And another thing: if you mount the transformers with zip ties to the PCB WITHOUT putting something between them and the PCB, there is a chance of shorting the transformer case to some pads on the top side of the PCB. Luckily I have a CNC mill and milled some small plastic boards or "spacers" to go between. Why  don´t they give you a hint in the instructions? Why don´t they deliver such boards/spacers?

And yes, he was banned because he stole other peoples designs and was selling them.

Cheers, Christoph


 
regarding the transformer mounting - I ended up drilling and mounting all transformers on the back panel, as I think the original intention was to do the PCBs side by side so the input and interstage transformers could be direct soldered to the PCB. I found that there wasn't enough room so I ended up stacking the pcbs. I have an inside pic somewhere I will have to dig up. I can't remember, but the bottom panel drill pattern might already be for this arrangement.

I followed the cal procedure from the original manual and had no problems.... Also I had no schematic provided by DIY racked, but I think if you follow the revC manual/schematic you will be able to figure everything out, I remember it being almost direct part for part.

http://www.vintagewindings.com/gen%20pop/8299543VW8335/ProAudio1/Neve%2033609C%20Manual.pdf

As for knobs I was able to source some vintage Neve metal knobs, but they were super expensive and only came with 1/8" (Or equivalent in mm) shaft, so I had to drill out for the proper size. I don't have any info on the Collet knobs.

Send me a PM and I can send you a link to my mouser cart and a few other documents including faceplate dimensions.

PSU I ended up using 4700..... they are filtering caps so 4700 works fine.

I used the Audio Maintenance transformer set. They are wonderful, but were a bit cumbersome to get in the U.S.  They don't accept paypal and the CC option wasn't working so I had to send them a bank wire transfer. They may have changed by now but it was pretty inconvenient.  10468's are going to be hard to get at a reasonable price, as well as any other vintage neve mic input transformer as everyone wants them for their 1073 clone.




 
warpie said:
As I said, I can't really recall the reason he was banned but I only answered to (perhaps) why there's not much discussion about his projects here.

All that is irrelevant though. Good luck with your project ☺

Thanks warpie, understood.

Greg
 
TubeMonkey said:
regarding the transformer mounting - I ended up drilling and mounting all transformers on the back panel, as I think the original intention was to do the PCBs side by side so the input and interstage transformers could be direct soldered to the PCB. I found that there wasn't enough room so I ended up stalking the pcbs. I have an inside pic somewhere I will have to dig up. I can't remember, but the bottom panel drill pattern might already be for this arrangement.

I followed the cal procedure from the original manual and had no problems.... Also I had no schematic provided by DIY racked, but I think if you follow the revC manual/schematic you will be able to figure everything out, I remember it being almost direct part for part.

http://www.vintagewindings.com/gen%20pop/8299543VW8335/ProAudio1/Neve%2033609C%20Manual.pdf

As for knobs I was able to source some vintage Neve metal knobs, but they were super expensive and only came with 1/8" (Or equivalent in mm) shaft, so I had to drill out for the proper size. I don't have any info on the Collet knobs.

Send me a PM and I can send you a link to my mouser cart and a few other documents including faceplate dimensions.

PSU I ended up using 4700..... they are filtering caps so 4700 works fine.

I used the Audio Maintenance transformer set. They are wonderful, but were a bit cumbersome to get in the U.S.  They don't accept paypal and the CC option wasn't working so I had to send them a bank wire transfer. They may have changed by now but it was pretty inconvenient.  10468's are going to be hard to get at a reasonable price, as well as any other vintage neve mic input transformer as everyone wants them for their 1073 clone.

Hi Ethan,

I'll have to take a closer look at the transformer situation as you and other have noted.    Typically, I use a very thin spacer when soldering to raise PCB connected transformers off the board a tiny bit later removing the spacer,  so having the case touching the PCB won't be an issue here, but I’ll still check.  Thanks for the schematic and calibration tips.

Yeah, the DIY-Rack BOM indicates 4700uF, the PCB indicates 4700uF, but the Mouser part number on the BOM points to a 2200uF cap.  I'll go with 4700uF's.

I took a closer look at my front panel and it seems to be properly indicated in all areas.  Although, I did notice there are 6 XLR sized hole on the back panel.  There’s only 4 XLR's connectors noted in the BOM.  The other two being S/C connectors missing from the BOM it appears?

I'll send you a PM Ethan.

Thanks to all!

Cheers,
Greg


 
Hello all! Greg thanks for starting this thread. I'm getting ready to start this build as well. My first question is what are the voltage values for the capacitors? Ethan, I'd love to see you BOM so I'll send you a PM.
Thanks!
John K
 
jkdrums7 said:
Hello all! Greg thanks for starting this thread. I'm getting ready to start this build as well. My first question is what are the voltage values for the capacitors? Ethan, I'd love to see you BOM so I'll send you a PM.
Thanks!
John K

Hi John,

The project is +/-24V so anything higher than 24V will probably work fine.  Assuming you're referring to the PSU, I'm using 50V caps which was noted on DIY-Rack's BOM for the v1.0 boards.

I have a Mouser BOM too if you're interested.  Be aware, my PCB is v1.0.  I believe  DIY-Racked just released a v1.1PCB  -  a reworked board as the previous boards were using now discontinued Op Amps.

Cheers,
Greg
 
So,
I ordered a kit end of April, got the case and tranfo 3 weeks later, the PCB arrived around July 4th because of COVID-19 and it was sended from Russia, I'm living in Belgium.

So happy that I finally got the PCBs, it turns out that I got a PCB v1 and v1.1  :'(
At this point still didn't received a new PCB.
So started soldering everything on the good PCB (v1.1).
Then the transfo provided from them dies, so ordered a new one myself, because I was getting tired of it... response is there but not as good, I hoped.

Now that I got again a working PSU again I started calibrating the one PCB Channel I got.
Now following their Manual v1 (because in V1.1 there is no information) getting stucked again.

I read here that you can follow the Neve C manual for it ?
But I don't really know where to look in it.
 
BerndVP said:
So,
I ordered a kit end of April, got the case and tranfo 3 weeks later, the PCB arrived around July 4th because of COVID-19 and it was sended from Russia, I'm living in Belgium.

So happy that I finally got the PCBs, it turns out that I got a PCB v1 and v1.1  :'(
At this point still didn't received a new PCB.
So started soldering everything on the good PCB (v1.1).
Then the transfo provided from them dies, so ordered a new one myself, because I was getting tired of it... response is there but not as good, I hoped.

Now that I got again a working PSU again I started calibrating the one PCB Channel I got.
Now following their Manual v1 (because in V1.1 there is no information) getting stucked again.

I read here that you can follow the Neve C manual for it ?
But I don't really know where to look in it.

Is this what you're looking for?  (See attached)
 

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