[boji]

Do you put a couple of 550 modules into backplane pcb’s and then seat into face plate rails and then screw in brackets to side panels?

Yep, except there's an intermediate stage where you have to mark the inside of the frame where the 500 mounting rails sit, remove everything since 500 cards get in way of punch and drill.  Flush bit the outsides using holes as guide, then add cards again hoping holes align.

[boji]

Thinking about future aux returns, leave room for expansion should it happen.

[fazer]

Looks like you have capi graphic eq module.   Been thinking about building a couple.

[boji]

Yessr, I needed a break from the metalwork! Easy peasy if you follow his advice on aligning all the mini grayhills.  I'm quite anxious to hear his latest offering in vintage opa design with the CA0252.

[boji]

Getting bezel/trim plate dims for talkback/monitor control module:



Update:

After discovering the Grace m905 has updated their firmware for IR and cellphone app control, it may be better to integrate the remote unit into the frame with a fitted front panel instead of cutting out a rectangular space for it.

This allows for many options: 
Keeps trim / faceplate color consistent, lowers profile and reduces chance for dust/spills to get into the fader cavity, continues use of square NKK's found elsewhere on the desk and lets some extra space be used for logic buttons. Most importantly, it allows for the rearrangement of the controller's buttons for improved workflow.  For example- does a user really need the setup button to occupy the same real estate as the buttons controlling monitor mute and L minus R?
"Setup" is a set-and-forget button imo, so it's getting nixed. Going to instead experiment activating it with a magnetic reed switch, so, if settings need to be changed by some guest engineer, they are going to have to ask to borrow a magnet and wave it over a section of the faceplate. 

https://www.amazon.com/Normally-Proximity-Magnetic-PS-3150-Perfect/dp/B07QR14M7H



FPE Mockup:

[boji]

Using granite surface plate to true the monitor controller cover:

[boji]

I've dialed-in the color finally. Quite pleased how it's turned out.  At most angles, it's a respectable, low-key 60's console grey:


But at some steep angles, it puts on its party hat and becomes an "api-inspired blue" 

[fazer]

But at some steep angles, it puts on its party hat and becomes an "api-inspired blue" 

That’s real nice

[boji]

That’s real nice

Thank you.  Doing the top panels too which are rather large which create some coverage consistency issues. One turned out nice and is ready for topcoat.  Once I get em' all done, I'll update this post with picts + all trim (edit: almost) complete.

Update 5/15:  WIth the exception of the monitor control faceplate and channel faceplates. all trim metalwork is ready for topcoat!  (Topcoat is much easier and less stressful)  yay.

[boji]

Woot!!!  Monitor controller fp arrived.  Things fit. This is good.   

[john12ax7]

Everytime I visit this thread the fire to build my own console burns a little brighter.

[boji]

Everytime I visit this thread the fire to build my own console burns a little brighter.

Paying forward inspiration to create. No better compliment. Thanks 12ax.  Now is the best time to get started!

[mjrippe]

Display shows 74 degrees, 30% humidity, and 0.0" of precipitation in your studio 

[boji]

Hmmm... where to begin...

[80hinhiding]

Just finding this thread now Boji.

It's nice to see more of the work I knew you were plugging away at.  Even better than expected, and I expected it to be good.

Adam

[boji]

Thanks 80HH! Very kind of ya to say that.

Around the bend fun soon will begin:




Blue =    patch panel pita-town.
Black =  Monacle levé, que voir...zut alors!
Red n Yel, = 

[rbuskov]

By the way... I don't see many people using blind tapped holes in their faceplate projects. Provided metal is thick enough,  I can attest they are super helpful at mounting things on the back while making for a clean face, and they really don't cost much more than a standard hole, using FPE.

Very interesting. I have been thinking about doing this and asked about it in another thread.

I'm designing a 500 series module and I'm looking to attach the bracket that holds the PCB to the front plate using 4 blind tapped holes (one in each corner of the front plate). I'm concerned about mechanical strength when the thread is only 2mm long, but I'm hoping that a hole in each corner will do the job.

Anyway, it's reassuring to see another DIY'er doing something like this. I assume the faceplate you are referring to is made from aluminium? What did you mount (how much stress is there on the assembly)?

[boji]

What did you mount [using blind, tapped holes]?

Things I know will get very little lateral/shear force applied to them. They're best for things put on a supported structure, not so good to support an entire faceplate. I'd have to test a 500 module. 

Overdo the holes (add more than four) to spread out the force as much as possible, I say.     For example, concerned about the below volume knob, as it will get plenty of use.  All 6 hex standoffs are secured with loctite.  But if someone was to put something heavy on it, or banged on it downwards,  I'm hoping the breadboard will break, not the threads/encoder.





Minus button caps, monitor controller faceplate is ready to be installed.   Engravings need backfilling, but for whatever reason, one of them was milled very shallow and powder has taken it all up, so it needs to get send back to FPE for re-engraving but...I'll worry about that later.  Much to do.

[rbuskov]

Things I know will get very little lateral/shear force applied to them. They're best for things put on a supported structure, not so good to support an entire faceplate. I'd have to test a 500 module. 

Overdo the holes (add more than four) to spread out the force as much as possible, I say.    

Thanks for the advice. These screws wouldn't really support the face plate once it's installed, and there should be very little lateral force during installation. Someone might "wiggle" the module back and forth to get it out of the chassis though.

Still, I'm starting to think that this design might actually work just fine 

[boji]

Nom Nom Powdercoat


Brick of HDPE stock. Will cut out some bus bar iso blocks this weekend.

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